Need help boost drop
after i rebuilt my engine: changing pistons/rings, 82mm tb (273), water/meth kit, cleaning taking off the aluminums inside the sc inlet(plenum) to make it clear without obstacle inside it, polishing a little the rotor inside the sc, the al one to clean it. turning off and out the secondary air injection and egr valves.
after those the car runs good without fault codes but the boost was dropping at wot, sometimes it goes to 1.3 bars then decrease to 1.1 at higher rpm, sometimes decrease to 0.9bars and sometimes it go to 1.5 bars.
it mades me mad, i test air leak, sc clutch, another tb, everything is right, any ideas? i am thinking now the SC!!
I'm assuming he has a tune for a bov of some sort
And yes you are right don't touch those rotors
Some have ported the sc but got very little gains
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Robert, is the boost level consistent on the same day and weather conditions or does it vary? If it varies on the same day and weather I would also bet that there maybe some slip. Post up your logs and I'm sure a few eyes on them will maybe at least help you figure out what to look for.
there is no stress cause the main TB is before the SC not after like turbo's.
no belt slip
55k SC with V6 3.7L, stock pulleys 22psi.
Robert, is the boost level consistent on the same day and weather conditions or does it vary? If it varies on the same day and weather I would also bet that there maybe some slip. Post up your logs and I'm sure a few eyes on them will maybe at least help you figure out what to look for.
-I think the timing is advanced when boost is dropping leaking, like going part throttle, cause when the car was running good my timing was between 19-21 wot, plus i have a low static compression ratio 8.2
-I'll check tomorrow the throttle position and map sensor(you're mentioning voltage of map or reading boost from it?)
after that i'll swap the tb with the stock 74 and i'll check
- what do you recommend me for logging from obd?
i have 2 AFR gauge one for left bank and one for right bank, also i have a fuel pressure gauge and boost one.
-I think the timing is advanced when boost is dropping leaking, like going part throttle, cause when the car was running good my timing was between 19-21 wot, plus i have a low static compression ratio 8.2
-I'll check tomorrow the throttle position and map sensor(you're mentioning voltage of map or reading boost from it?)
after that i'll swap the tb with the stock 74 and i'll check
- what do you recommend me for logging from obd?
i have 2 AFR gauge one for left bank and one for right bank, also i have a fuel pressure gauge and boost one.
What I have seen at least on the e55 is that there are two sets of torque limiters. One for the engine ecu and one for the tcu. I'm wondering if the tcu is now taking control of the throttle and backing it off. I think your rotors might be fine since if they were bad, they would leak all the time and you would never see the higher boost levels you see at certain points in your run. It looks to be tune/control related to me or some odd type of slip. Did you recently change throttle bodies since it sounds like you are going to try the 74.
Good luck...
What I have seen at least on the e55 is that there are two sets of torque limiters. One for the engine ecu and one for the tcu. I'm wondering if the tcu is now taking control of the throttle and backing it off. I think your rotors might be fine since if they were bad, they would leak all the time and you would never see the higher boost levels you see at certain points in your run. It looks to be tune/control related to me or some odd type of slip. Did you recently change throttle bodies since it sounds like you are going to try the 74.
Good luck...

i don't think it's tune related cause before the built it was running good and with the same tune.
my car has no bypass, please don't ask me how is this, all c32 does not have a bypass, the TB is BEFORE the SC not AFTER like turbo builts, so when you let off gas, the tb close and the sc build vacuum.
also the only time the clutch turn off is when the rpm goes below 1000 rpm, so when idle and rpm below 1000 the sc is not working, when rpm goes higher then 1000 the sc turn on.
So i don't trust pulley/clutch anymore specially with this high boost,
i made a clutchless sc pulley and installed it on the car today, the car runs wot very good no slippage, boost went up to 22psi,
but the problem now is that the sc is working at idle and below 1000 rpm and the car idle very bad, it cannot compensate for the extra air coming from the sc on.
i have no experience with bypass or blow off valves, so please i need help, if i installed a bypass/bov can i solve the problem, is there any electrical bypass that work with rpm(on below 1000 and off high then 1000) or anything else?
thanks.
edit: also a very bad sound is coming from the rotors inside the sc when it's on at idle, the sound go when rpm is upper then 900-1000.
Last edited by Robert AMG; Jul 10, 2013 at 05:48 PM.











time for a weistec 