E55 hard start hot (fuel sending unit recently replaced)
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2004 E55 AMG
E55 hard start hot (fuel sending unit recently replaced)
I have recently replaced my driver side fuel sending unit with a new unit due to the cracked nozzle. Since replacement it is taking several turns of the key to get it to turn over and start. This only happens in the heat of the day. First thing in the morning it cranks right up.
I have found no OBD codes at all, and pulled the fuel sending units on both sides to recheck for loose hoses. Battery is almost brand new.
Issue is getting worse as last night after driving for about 10 mins, it took about 10 mins to get it started back again after turning it off.
Car runs fine once it is started too.
What can I check next?
I have found no OBD codes at all, and pulled the fuel sending units on both sides to recheck for loose hoses. Battery is almost brand new.
Issue is getting worse as last night after driving for about 10 mins, it took about 10 mins to get it started back again after turning it off.
Car runs fine once it is started too.
What can I check next?
Last edited by lightweight75; 07-23-2013 at 08:59 AM.
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is there a possibility it could be a relay? is there a way to determine before buying a new CPS? it seems like it is not getting any fuel, when turning key over, it is either a quick chug then nothing, or nothing. would this point to CPS?
Last edited by lightweight75; 07-23-2013 at 11:23 AM.
#4
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CPS FTW!! my CLK did this it would not start and just kept turning and turning...after sitting for a bit it would start. Cool start, it was fine. It was the CPS..after that it was perfect. CPS is an easy DIY.
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Mine doesnt turn and turn and turn......it either starts or turn the key and it is like a "chug, or cough" then nothing......or turn key and nothing at all
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Well just replaced CPS and it didnt work.....same exact thing. Starts up fine cold, but when car warms up and I turn it off and try to restart, it just chugs and nothing. After a few turn of the key it starts but the warmer it gets, the more turns it takes to start again.......now what can it be???
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thanks, I may end up doing that, but wanted to check some more things before.
Checked battery voltage and it is fine, just about brand new battery. Seems to be fuel related, started when I replaced drivers side fuel sending unit after it cracked. Passenger side unit is the original one. If passenger side fuel pumps or issue, wouldnt I have problems driving or not? Does it point to a fuel pump relay? Visually the relay looks fine, no melting etc. All fuses are good as well. No fuel smell in car, everything seems to be sealed up pretty well. Double checked all hoses at passenger side fuel sending unit, all appear attached securely. Car runs strong when started, no hesitation, sputtering etc.
Checked battery voltage and it is fine, just about brand new battery. Seems to be fuel related, started when I replaced drivers side fuel sending unit after it cracked. Passenger side unit is the original one. If passenger side fuel pumps or issue, wouldnt I have problems driving or not? Does it point to a fuel pump relay? Visually the relay looks fine, no melting etc. All fuses are good as well. No fuel smell in car, everything seems to be sealed up pretty well. Double checked all hoses at passenger side fuel sending unit, all appear attached securely. Car runs strong when started, no hesitation, sputtering etc.
Last edited by lightweight75; 07-26-2013 at 01:37 PM.
#13
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May sound weird but check the hoses that run to the fuel pump. If they did not get plugged in all the way you will have hard start/no start. However, I would think this would happen whether hot or cold. I had a similar problem of hard start, the hoses need to click into place fully. By the way, I am talking about the hoses in the tank not outside.
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From the vid, it doesn't sound like the motor is turning-over at all? It certainly sounds to me like a starter or at least an electrical problem. Why would you think fuel delivery problem?
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The only reason is because it started right after replacing the fuel sending unit, so I just assumed.
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so I woke up early today to take it to indy mechanic,.....and got a "ESP malfunction visit workshop", which I never got before. Drove for about 30 mins to heat up engine. Stopped car then started right up again. Did this many times to test and it worked fine. Headed back home to do more research instead of going to indy.
I now feel it is less engine heat related and more outside air temp related. As long as it was cool outside it started fine. Tested again in the heat of the day and the problems reappear even with engine cool.........arrrghhhh.....
I now feel it is less engine heat related and more outside air temp related. As long as it was cool outside it started fine. Tested again in the heat of the day and the problems reappear even with engine cool.........arrrghhhh.....
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07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
Did you remove the battery cable when you changed out the fuel pump? Could not hear the starter in video, so clean the battery terminals and also check the starter connections. Have someone try to start while checking all connections, even the ones on the fuel pump you replaced. Wiggle the fuel pump connections while trying to start as well as the other connections. Did you perhaps miss a ground connection ?
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I swapped relays in front SAM and no changes....did not try relays in the trunk though.....took it to an Indy this morning, had to get inspection done and tired of fooling with it myself....will post the findings...
Last edited by lightweight75; 07-29-2013 at 10:53 AM.
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Just picked up car from indy.....they stated that there is a known issue where the dealer has to flash the computer to resolve this problem. Where the car is hard to start when it is hot outside, and no fuel in the lines ....Any details on this?
Last edited by lightweight75; 07-31-2013 at 12:54 PM.
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Place a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and monitor the pressure when you turn the key on cold and also when the engine is hot. Pressure should be close if not the same, it almost sound like the pump is not performing a required when warm. Not sure about a reset from dealer but worth a call to ask. DIY pressure check would be first on the list, just because the pump is new it could be a false positive. Pull the back seat and place your ear close to the tank and get someone to turn key cold and then hot to see if the pump is actually humming. Low fuel in the tank can be heard easier.
Good Luck
Good Luck