taurran

Okay, so I'm going to be doing my brakes this weekend, which will involve removing the calipers and sending them to a powder coating shop. So, that means I have to put my car up on jack stands for a week or so. I searched around and found some vague references on the best way to get the car up on stands, but I hadn't found anyone outlining a precise process to do so.

I'm fine getting the front up, but having the finned cooler on the rear diff seems like it'd make the rears hard to safely raise, or even unstable if you use a block of wood. This is really the part that concerns me, as I'm lifting the whole car up using the rearward portion of the diff cover. I'm looking for a better way to get around this, if possible.

I have two 2.5 ton low profile jacks, two low profile ramps, and four jack stands, which I'll be using.

My basic plan of attack (will update when people give some advice).

1) Pull up front on low profile ramps.
2) Raise car fully on airmatic, engage parking brake, and put blocks behind rear tires.
3) Jack the front of the car up from the center jack location, and place jack stands under the front-side jack locations.
4) Get a section of 2x4 wood, and place it between the jack and the rear diff fins. Slowly and carefully jack rear up level with fronts, and place jack stands under rear jack location.
5) Disengage parking brake. Keep jacks under front and rear jack points for added support.

Here is a diagram of under the car. If you have any suggestions or other points I need to consider, please let me know:

HeissRod

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ackstands.html

Don't really have a good answer for ya

taurran

The rear aluminum diff cover will NOT "break under the weight of the car", as people in that thread were stating. It's built pretty darn sturdy and thick, unlike some of the more exotic ones from porsche/ferrari/etc. I've lifted the rear of the car with a section of 2x4 before, and it worked fine. The main concern, I suppose, is added instability of the wood seeing as how the car isn't going to be level when starting to lift. The last thing I want is for the car to topple or shift while doing it.

I've read one or two people stating that you can lift at a point on the rear suspension safely, which I'd actually prefer to do, but I'd be interested in knowing exactly where that's possible.

Either way, I can't do one corner at a time, because the calipers all have to be off the car for the powder coat.

FromM3toAMG

i had this same question, I was worried about damaging the the diff..i did it on my M3 numerous times.. but this car seems fragile lol

Anyway, OP good luck getting the tq bolts off. hope you have some impact tools or something. Ended up having to take my car to the dealer.. and they ALSO had problems getting them off.

taurran

Not exactly what I wanted to hear. heh

If anything I'll get a steel pipe and put it over my breaker. Working party up.

statepkt

Would like to know also..

taurran

I'm considering jacking up both sides of the rear and just removing the damn diff cooler for the job.

Roverron

stack 2X4's in front of the fins on the rear and lift from there

f8l ws6

This is what I did. No problems.

93RX7LSX

Taurren you're on here too!!! I remember you from my350z, it's good to have a 350z owner on here (07HR350Z was my name), well I used to be Z owner. Anyways, you got the correct points on the E55 just make sure when you lower her you come down slowly or else you risk popping the air bags. A piece of wood is a good idea between the stand and the lifting point.

taurran

Hey man, yep it's a small world. I've seen a few names on here that came over from 350z's. I've actually had my E55 since 2008, but haven't really been into modding it much. Just now starting to play with it a little.


This sounds like a win. I'm going to try this. Thanks!

taurran

Car is now up on stands. Stacking a board in front of the cooler worked, and was simple enough. Hopefully this will help some in the future figure this out.

It's mostly level, but it works:





And yes my car is filthy from being driven in NY. The fuel leak was fixed last year.

taurran

Just to update the OP. Here's the routine I went with and had luck with:

1) Pull up front on low profile ramps.
2) Raise car fully on airmatic, engage parking brake, and put blocks behind rear tires.
3) Jack the front of the car up from the center jack location, and place jack stands under the front-side jack locations.
4) Get a section of 2x4 wood, and jack the rear of the car up on the differential just forward of the cooling fins. The board allows for the jack to clear the fins, and to avoid marring the differential. Slowly and carefully jack rear up level with fronts, and place jack stands under rear jack location.
5) Double check that the car is level, raise front/rear jacks and adjust stands accordingly.
6) Disengage parking brake. Keep jacks under front and rear jack points for added support.




My car is still sitting on jack stands right now. My calipers are at the powder coating shop, which has turned out to be an absolute nightmare. They recommended a shop to break down my calipers and they marred a few of the pistons for the brakes. I'm having to order rebuild kits for the brake seals, and now a few replacment pistons.

For future reference - I discovered a place that offers great deals on brake rebuild kits for our cars. They also offer replacement pistons for our front and rear brakes:

http://zeckhausen.com/

HeissRod

I know there is really no way to avoid it, but I'd be nervous about raising the car all the way up to meet the front jack stands while depending on a wobbly piece of 2x4.

taurran

I got the good treated wood, if that helps.

Just be positive that it's absolutely centered on the diff, and the rear edge of the 2x4 is flush with the forward edge of the fins, and it seems fine. Of course, I left the wheels on the car until it was entirely up on stands.