Before I torque the rocker arms/bridge, I have noticed the bridge does not sit flush against the heads. MB camshaft tools installed properly and the crank set to 40 degrees. Kleemann camshafts dropped in place with no resistance.

Are they not setting due to lifter to valve spring contact in which the valve springs need to be compressed by the proper torque sequence of the camshaft bridge?

I need help before I start drinking......

 

nevermind my original post, my assumption to my question was correct.

Now, my problem is that the driver side camshaft sprocket key does not line up with the camshaft notch. Then again, why in the hell am I asking you guys? Who here @MBworld installed their own camshafts.

 

Do you have access to the MB WIS?
So yoiu can take the MBs own Workshop manual as a reference :-)

 

I did install my own Kleemann camshafts. I only used the install guide provided. Everything went nice and smooth with no problems whatsoever. The guide is pretty easy to follow and the info you need is there.

 

Did you zip tie the timing chain to the sprocket in the earlier stages and it aligned right up? Or did you cut the zip ties and aligned the sprocket to the camshaft with the chain off on one side?

 

On the instructions for the sprocket install, it states "#21. Re-install the camshaft sprockets left and right"

Maybe that was the order of the install? I shall remove both rocker arm bridges and re-install in that order. (I did not use that order the first time) I will report back later tonight with the results.....

 

what kind of gains are the kleemann cams suppose to yield ?

 

Yes I did zip tie the chain in the early stages. It aligned perfectly.

Yes this is very important. Make sure you follow all the steps carefully. Good luck!

 

I'm going to this time. lol

Let's say, hypothetically speaking, after cutting the zip ties to release the tension on the sprocket (not the zip ties on the sprockets to hold chain against the teeth) the timing chain had enough slack to skip a tooth. How would I know? The sprocket key is not lining up by half the width of the key?

 

20 rwhp? The benefit is more in the middle to upper end where our engines lose wind. Torque curve changes. @165 mph+ I'm losing the battle @ the mile runs....

 

please make sure the timing is correct or else it is going to be a nightmare!!!!!

 

How easy is it for the chain to skip a tooth?

 

I changed to PTE cams myself and iirc, (plenty of beer was involved...Kleemann neglected that in their instructions!) it was a minor pain to get the keyway lined up on the cams/cam gears. Not impossible, but they sure didn't just pop right in to place. I attributed it to spring pressure at the time. I had the Kleemann instructions and followed them religiously...until I realized that they say nothing about replacing the cam bridge bolts! According to my Star-Tek DVD, they're torque-to-yield an shouldn't be reused. Trips to 3 MB dealers in DC/VA/MD for replacement bolts ensued...That got me thinking, so I double-checked the Kleemann torque specs. The specs in the Kleemann instructions matched for a C32 in Star-Tek, but not the C55. Not sure if there's a difference between the 55 n/a and the 55K, but you may want to check.

I honestly can't recall what I did to get everything lined up but bottom line, once I had everything in place...blame he beer, but I went ahead and did the buttload of crank rotations (14-17ish?) once I had everything snugged up to make sure all of the timing links were in the right places. Best of luck, when it's done it'll all be worth it!

 

When I installed my cams I had same problem ,make sure crank didn't move a little mine did and it was enough to make that cam gear not line up ,I think it's 40 deg on crank just check that

 

First off, thank you everyone for your help!

Second off, the reinstall rocker arm bridge with left sprocket to right sprocket install worked. She's done. No issues. Everything fell into place.

 

Keep in mind the crank will move just a touch when you tighten the chain tensioner bolt.

 

hey guys sorry to drag up and old thread, but when replacing cams, can you use a deep E18 socket on the sprocket bolt, or do you need that weird crowsfoot arrangement thats in the manual. very few places sell the crowsfoot tool.

thanks.

 

You can get the tool from the dealer. If you can fit a socket the go ahead but there isn't much room