18K in mileage? you might want to check that out as something is wrong then as my original one lasted 130K miles..... these bearings should last 100K+

and the red is actually the old style Nachi part no. 45BG07S5AIG while the Black is the new updated Nachi part no. 45BG07S5AIG-2DL

 

Switch to twin turbo, then you don't need to worry about it

I think my new replacement is black. But I am sure they could make them any color they want to so I don't think color is a good indicator either.

 

this is on the smaller S/C pulley so maybe lighter/faster = more wear

just re-checked my part - its' -2DS and it's blue

 

it's not red - but it's $38 instead of $80

Attachment 447548

 

sounds like u got wrong bearing.... i looked up on internet and couldnt find anything that says that bearing would work on our pulleys

it doesnt even look like right size... almost looks like you got the clutch bearing and not the pulley bearing.... see the listing below

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NACHI-CLUTCH-BEARINGS-FOR-MERCEDES-SUPERCHARGERS-/370895239408?nma=true&si=307BghGEhMsjv%252B7AW27Ylap0eEI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

bearingsdirect said that the 45BG07S5 is actual bearing number which indicates the bearing size and cage assembly - both of those match

2DS = 2 Rubber Seals and they all are in same sizes with different color seals

45BG07S5AIG = red
45BG07S5AIG-2DL = black
45BG07S5DL-2DS = blue

http://www.darossi.com/supercharger-...earing-45.html

Nachi bearing for Mercedes Benz 2003-06 E55 AMG. Mercedes Eaton Supercharger front main bearing, Nachi part no. 45BG07S5AIG-2DL (may also fit other 55KAMG motor). This is the newer version and replaces part number 45BG07S5DL . These are high quality automotive Nachi bearings which are made in JAPAN.

I believe mine is just the older design - it looked to be the proper size and number 45mm

NACHI 45BG07S5DL-2DS Auto Compressor Ball Bearing

Model No. 45BG07S5DL-2DS
Category Deep Groove Ball Bearing
Specification 45*75*32mm
Material Type Bearing steel,Carbon steel,Stainless steel
Number of Row Single
Material of Cage Nylon,Steel,Brass
Packing Poly bag,box,carton,or according to your requirements
Application Industry Machine, auto, motorcycle, power tools
Place of Origin Sweden,USA,Germany,Italy,France
Service OEM service,small order accepted,supply samples.

 

well there you have it... now install it then

 

it's at the shop now, should be done tomorrow

 

Thank you for the awesome writeup. I am going to try it this weekend. I found the bearing on ebay for 65.66 with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261458456457...84.m1559.l2649.

 

thanks gas. i was all ready to do this sat but cant get the bolt to break to save my life. three clamps and a long *** wrench and didnt budge at all. dammit

 

So this may sound like a foolish question but how do I know if it's my Pulley Bearing or the clutch?

Because I haven't removed the belt and spun the Pulley by hand But I did spin the clutch drum when the engine was turn off and it sounded rough, slight grinding sound. Already have the Pulley Bearing in route from ebay but JW if I have more than one issue.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

Is this DIY video anyone on here? Its super helpful and should definitely be a part of this thread.

 

for anyone that encounters this problem in the future, you can always try the old mechanics trick of sliding a long pipe over your wrench (or you can do the 2 wrench trick) which dramatically increases the amount of torque you can apply to the bolt and will make it much easier to break any bolt loose

 

Changed the bearing this weekend just as described in this thread. Super easy. I read somewhere that if the bolt is not breaking lose, you can use a small torch as there might be thread locker on the bolt.

 

Great video ekalb. I fell out of my seat when he dropped the camera putting on the belt. Thought he was loosing a couple of fingers...

Great thread gaspam - thank you for posting this up.

The video says 40 ft/lbs and you state 60 ft/lbs - It would be good to clarify what the right torque spec is.

 

Here is pertinent info on Nachi and color of seals etc.. DST Seals are Red.

 

hahaha thanks brother did that mine was bad *** stuck so went and boght a long pibe at the local, happy home time to work, slided the damn thing over and NOT: DO not pull it towards yourself lol was so happy NOW I CAN finally work and BAM in my face hit right eye brow damn it bleed bad *** hahaha...


Was last year but just saw your post
be carefull

 

Will this bearing fit the cls 55 amg?

 

All m113k engines are the same except SLR variant. So yes it should fit cls55

 

It does.

 

Were can I order this bearing?

 

I didn't read it all but if you want a supercharger pulley bearing then victory road performance is an option, otherwise heaps available on eBay.

 

There should be a number on your old one. Check to make sure this one is compatible.

45BG07S5A1G-2DL NACHI Supercharger Bearing Made in Japan Mercedes C55,CL55,S55 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F231973293918

 

Hi, everyone,
Thanks for all the info. I have one problem that I haven't found much info on - my pulley won't slide off. I've got the bolt off - used a breaker bar, no problem. But everything I've seen on videos and read show the pulley just slides right off. Mine is completely stuck. It rotates, but won't slide off. I have tapped it a bit with a rubber mallet, and I've gently tried tapping a flathead screwdriver between the pulley and the magnet in various places. No dice. Don't want to do that too much for fear of damaging something. Any thoughts?

One thing I did notice, however, was, my setup doesn't have the two little posts that others do. The pulley washer has two holes in it that align and go onto these little posts. But I don't see those posts on mine and am wondering if my pulley assembly is different somehow - thereby making it more difficult to get off. Here's first a picture of someone else's job. You can see the two little posts at the end of the large inner post.



Then, here's mine without posts, and the pulley stuck on the SC. The picture is with the pulley bolt and washer already off.



Sidenote - I see that my current bearing is red/rust colored. My replacement is the appropriate one mentioned - 45BG07S5AIG-2DL - and is black. I have a 2004 SL55. From my understanding, this process and part is the same as the W211 and others of this generation. But please let me know if I'm wrong on that.

In the above picture I've tried to determine if there's a plate I'm supposed to take off or a lip that is preventing extraction. Just not sure. You can see I gently attempted to use a flathead to pry between the bearing and the silver ring (don't know if this is part of the post or what). I figured I'm replacing the bearing, so who cares.

Any ideas?

Many thanks!
Ben

 

If you have a puller, use long hose clamps to keep the jaws engaged in the outer ring of the belt groove. you might have to reshape the jaws with a grinder first. You could try wedges in the clutch, but be super careful not to bend anything or chew up the surface. Many screwdrivers would work. the more you put in it, the more the pressure is spread out. It can take quite a bit of heat too. just don't get the springs on the pulley over about 350* and keep in mind the rubber seal in the front of the S/C