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If you have a puller, use long hose clamps to keep the jaws engaged in the outer ring of the belt groove. you might have to reshape the jaws with a grinder first. You could try wedges in the clutch, but be super careful not to bend anything or chew up the surface. Many screwdrivers would work. the more you put in it, the more the pressure is spread out. It can take quite a bit of heat too. just don't get the springs on the pulley over about 350* and keep in mind the rubber seal in the front of the S/C
Thanks so much, StarvingArtist. Unfortunately, I'm only set up for simple repairs. Don't have a puller, grinder, or fire. And I only have three flathead screwdrivers. Not sure what you specifically mean by "wedges in the clutch". Not sure where they would go. And I'd have to go get wedges.
Bummer. Looks like I'm taking the car in. I was trying to make this as easy as possible, because I'm already trying to sell it. This was supposed to be a cheap, easy fix. I also tried to spray some WD-40 in a couple of spots, but it's tight enough that it probably didn't get down to where it would do any good.
But thank you very much for the ideas. If anyone else has other thoughts, I'm all ears. Cheers. Ben
csi,
I ended up having to take it in. It took the dealer over 2 hours for him to get the pulley off, haha. So, I just had him do the job and didn't end up doing the job myself. This was the video that I was following that made the most sense. Don't the guy in the video, but hope it helps.
Yeah I’ve got the pulley off but am having zero success pounding the worn bearing out with a hammer & washers as shown. I’ve even tried a sledgehammer without any success.
I would then stick all of it into the oven - use part of the concept of getting the new bearing in. See if it'll expand the pulley at all. The rubber seal of the bearing is most likely going to melt, and then there's the oil/lube in the bearings to all watch out for. But, otherwise, destroying the bearing you're taking out is, of course, inconsequential. And you shouldn't damage the pulley any more than what you would be doing when you heat it up to get the new bearing in. Maybe use the temperature the video recommends for the new bearing install as a starting point. Of course, if you go hotter, consider any damage that might be caused to the pulley - my disclaimer, lol. I'd put the whole thing in something that has walls - a cake pan you can throw away - to keep anything from seeping/escaping into your oven. And I personally would have a fire extinguisher and not leave it unattended, because of the oil/lube/rubber. I wouldn't think heating it would be an issue, since it gets hot in the engine, and we cook with oil/juices in the oven anyway. But, better safe than sorry.
I realize this idea is trying to use heat to expand the pulley - while at the same time it's expanding the bearing, as well. But you're just trying to break that bond that's happening between the walls of the bearing and the pulley. If you're expanding everything, you're hopefully changing real estate on a microscopic level enough to separate them. At least that's the concept.
Following that, then, yes, you're most likely looking to find a drill press somewhere. Maybe try penetrating oil in between the bearing and the pulley - like you would for bolts that have rusted/broken off.
Congratulations on getting at least a step further than I did, lol. #perspective #littlevictories lol.
Cheers,
Ben
Haha thanks Ben. A quick run to a local mechanic took care of it in short order. Have the new bearing in the pulley.
Looking forward to hopefully no crummy weather and hopefully getting the car back on the road this weekend just to stretch it legs a bit. Next project is my leaky valve covers!
Congrats, and I envy you. I had to sell mine. Couple weeks ago. Hopefully I'll be able to return to the fun someday. Best of luck and have a great time! Cheers. Ben
Save yourself the trouble (and possible risk) of beating on this assembly and borrow a press that fits from O’Reilly Auto Parts (for US based readers). Note: the typically in stock pullers will not work, they are too small. You need “Master Wheel Hub and Bearing
Remover and Installer Kit 67213 /Select Stores Only)”.
You may need to request it, but many stores will have it transferred to their store for you in a day or two.
After lubricating the surfaces (cooling the bearing is probably not a bad plan) to press the new bearing in I lined up Nut G, step washer Q, [the clutch assembly], adapter sleeve S, spacer ring U, and support plate H.
(pieces and order for removal were similar)
If you’re going to use the “two clamp” method to remove the assembly. I recommend wrapping tape around the surfaces first to avoid marring with the clamps. Also consider buying a cheap strap wrench at Home Depot or Harbor Freight. This way you can spread your breaker bar force between the housing protrusions (that support the engine cover) and the strap wrench.
When checking your results compare noise at idle before and after. Keep in mind that the bearing actually only comes under load when the engine is at idle (technically when the engine is below a certain RPM and car is below a certain speed).
hope this helps.
Lynn
Last edited by lynn.lawton; 09-11-2022 at 10:49 AM.
Reason: Grammar
08-16-2019, 12:45 PM
