Smaller Super Charger pulley
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Smaller Super Charger pulley
How do I know if I have been supplied a smaller pulley that might be from a bad batch? Just want to know before installing with a load of other parts.
Checked what I could on the site and its not really clear, colour of bearing, size of the 3 tabs......... rumors?
cheers
Checked what I could on the site and its not really clear, colour of bearing, size of the 3 tabs......... rumors?
cheers
#3
Super Member
Thread Starter
many thanks, yes the tabs look very similar if not slightly larger than the original pulley on the car. Will shim the gap close
#4
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Just to clarify, here are a couple of photos I just stumbled across in my files....
S/C Pulley (1st Design):
![](http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac249/gregblanchette/E55/UPDesign-BAD.jpg)
S/C Pulley (2nd Design):
![](http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac249/gregblanchette/E55/UPDesign-GOOD.jpg)
You can see that the 2nd Design, has a much larger "button" on those three mounting positions....almost completely covering the spring steel underneath. This I believe was to mitigate the stress-risers and cracking of the steel spring material itself.
To be fair, I also believe that many of the early failures were a result of incorrect shimming which caused that spring to be stretched beyond it's design limit and that is what initiated the "tearing" at those riveted spots.
I suppose it's possible that either design could be made to work if the shimming were properly done.
-G
S/C Pulley (1st Design):
![](http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac249/gregblanchette/E55/UPDesign-BAD.jpg)
S/C Pulley (2nd Design):
![](http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac249/gregblanchette/E55/UPDesign-GOOD.jpg)
You can see that the 2nd Design, has a much larger "button" on those three mounting positions....almost completely covering the spring steel underneath. This I believe was to mitigate the stress-risers and cracking of the steel spring material itself.
To be fair, I also believe that many of the early failures were a result of incorrect shimming which caused that spring to be stretched beyond it's design limit and that is what initiated the "tearing" at those riveted spots.
I suppose it's possible that either design could be made to work if the shimming were properly done.
-G
#5
Super Member
Thread Starter
Thanks very useful pictures and for what it worth I have the 2nd design, the one in the picture has a decent size piece missing from the clutch plate.
Sounds like shim gap is very important in regards to metal fatigue of the lugs. I thought about no gap, but I might as well have got a fixed pulley?
Please confirm the tolerance gap?
Sounds like shim gap is very important in regards to metal fatigue of the lugs. I thought about no gap, but I might as well have got a fixed pulley?
Please confirm the tolerance gap?
Just to clarify, here are a couple of photos I just stumbled across in my files....
S/C Pulley (1st Design):
![](http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac249/gregblanchette/E55/UPDesign-BAD.jpg)
S/C Pulley (2nd Design):
![](http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac249/gregblanchette/E55/UPDesign-GOOD.jpg)
You can see that the 2nd Design, has a much larger "button" on those three mounting positions....almost completely covering the spring steel underneath. This I believe was to mitigate the stress-risers and cracking of the steel spring material itself.
To be fair, I also believe that many of the early failures were a result of incorrect shimming which caused that spring to be stretched beyond it's design limit and that is what initiated the "tearing" at those riveted spots.
I suppose it's possible that either design could be made to work if the shimming were properly done.
-G
S/C Pulley (1st Design):
![](http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac249/gregblanchette/E55/UPDesign-BAD.jpg)
S/C Pulley (2nd Design):
![](http://i904.photobucket.com/albums/ac249/gregblanchette/E55/UPDesign-GOOD.jpg)
You can see that the 2nd Design, has a much larger "button" on those three mounting positions....almost completely covering the spring steel underneath. This I believe was to mitigate the stress-risers and cracking of the steel spring material itself.
To be fair, I also believe that many of the early failures were a result of incorrect shimming which caused that spring to be stretched beyond it's design limit and that is what initiated the "tearing" at those riveted spots.
I suppose it's possible that either design could be made to work if the shimming were properly done.
-G