Battery pic/visit workshop
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Battery pic/visit workshop
I did all my searching around the forum and what I've found is that it can either be the aux battery, main battery, alternator, or the voltage regulator. I just had my aux battery replaced and the visit workshop error didn't go away.
Should I just take it to the dealership and let them figure it out or keep replacing parts till it goes away?
Should I just take it to the dealership and let them figure it out or keep replacing parts till it goes away?
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replace parts as you go but first
check voltage at both batteries and alternator with a meter.
if all check out then.......
check fuses front and back
check voltage regulator at alternator
check BCM battery control module
check voltage at both batteries and alternator with a meter.
if all check out then.......
check fuses front and back
check voltage regulator at alternator
check BCM battery control module
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From: 'Merica
'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
If you have a multimeter, test your batteries. If they come up good, I would check the voltage regulator. I replaced mine a few months ago, took me 30 minutes and I got the OEM part for about $40 on RMEuropean.
The last thing you want it to be is the alternator, which is $400 and involves taking half the engine apart.
The last thing you want it to be is the alternator, which is $400 and involves taking half the engine apart.
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From: Gainesville, FL: In a garage or in a bar, or a garage with a bar in it.
2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
Voltage regulator fixed mine after replacing the aux battery and testing the rear. It's a fairly easy fix, and is cheap. I'd do it.
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From: Gainesville, FL: In a garage or in a bar, or a garage with a bar in it.
2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
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2004 E55 AMG, 2006 CLS63, 2004 ML55, 2014 E350 sport
Get the batteries properly tested a mulimeter is not a 100% accurate test of a battery. If the battery has dropped a cell it will cost you an alternator eventually.
Shops that only sell batteries should have one of those accurate conductance testers some of them can test alternators aswell. This will give you a yes or no if the batteries are an issue.
Then look at the alternator if its melted at the back the rectifier pack has been overloaded. If you pull the voltage reg and its like the pictures on here that "might" of been your issue. But id still test everything else aswell while your at it as this ends up a compounding thing where it costs more and more money if you dont get it right the first time.
14v is with the car running on the MF display.
12.2 not running is about right when you use the MF display to tell you voltage as there is a voltage drop in the line between the batteries and that display. So its actually more like 12.6 at the battery with a multimeter.
Shops that only sell batteries should have one of those accurate conductance testers some of them can test alternators aswell. This will give you a yes or no if the batteries are an issue.
Then look at the alternator if its melted at the back the rectifier pack has been overloaded. If you pull the voltage reg and its like the pictures on here that "might" of been your issue. But id still test everything else aswell while your at it as this ends up a compounding thing where it costs more and more money if you dont get it right the first time.
14v is with the car running on the MF display.
12.2 not running is about right when you use the MF display to tell you voltage as there is a voltage drop in the line between the batteries and that display. So its actually more like 12.6 at the battery with a multimeter.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: 'Merica
'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 95
From: NZ
2004 E55 AMG, 2006 CLS63, 2004 ML55, 2014 E350 sport
Last edited by austingtir; Apr 24, 2014 at 08:06 PM.
