I just have completed the total Rebuild of my Rear end Subframe with all new bushings in the Arm (Kmac) as well as 3.06 gears and LSD in the diff after having initiated the project because of a Rear Main Seal leak!! I was just fitting the entire rear subframe when I broke out the UPD Rear Tow Arms that I've had stashed away for months since starting the build. They sure are pretty once unpackaged! So I disco'd the arm from the ears so as to mock it up first without the Arm, but I couldn't get the new bolts into the new brackets (See Pics).


I've e-mailed Shardul but he told me to email the shop instead, so I am waiting for them to contact me. I do expect to be contacted soon as Shardul is a stand up guy that I've bought the pulley set and STAR Software from. It's just a bummer though as I've spent 8+ months doing the rebuild only to be held back with this!!
1/19/21-Just received a follow-up email from Shardul stating that although the brackets were "made from 1 Jig", that his manufacturing source would send me replacement brackets this week!! Very nice customer service if I do say so myself!! I just don't know why those 2 L Shaped bracket "ears" that serve as the mount to the subframe for each of the Control Arms aren't welded together beforehand??? It sure would help to firm things up as well as make install that much easier?? Moreover, if they were welded beforehand, the drill holes through both ears would be identical, as compared to being slightly off as shown in my images above?? I know that's what I'll do before install!

2/9/2021- A couple weeks ago I took the replacement "Ears" I received from UPD (Thanks a ton Shardul!!) and took them locally to a welding guru and this is what the final product looks like!! I used Rustolium Matte Black to paint the "Ears" after treating them both with Permatex Rust Blocker that dries some what streaky dark clear. But its a great first treatment. I did same with Dust Shields, my Tranny and Diff Flanges after taking a wire brush to them, as well just using the "PRB" on the Hubs and Flanges while they were sitting around for months to protect them from rusting!! Also treated the Drive Shaft in spots too!!


And here is what the UPD Rear Adjustable Toe Arms look like installed!!


I used two of the OEM standard bolts that originally came with the OEM Arms. Standard -vs- multi-centric bolts along with a new washer for each.

Here they are connected up to the Carrier. Note the new hubs/flanges as well as the Racing Brake extensions. You'll see the marks I made to install the new subframe bushings, new OEM Rear Strut and RMT rear Airsprings.

Interesting to note: The WIS differs a little bit from the Xentry Airspriing Filling instructions in that the latter tells you to start with 0.5 bar, as does the WIS. WIS is clear about the importance of leaving all bolts LOOSE prior to inflating the AirSprings, as they are seen in the above photoes. However, I chose to first raise the carrier enough to seat the Airspring into the top mount, which for me measured around 4.0 degrees when measuring the inclination of the Axle Shaft. Then Xentry tells you to set adjust the angle of the axle to 1.2 degrees. After setting that angle and this is where WIS is fairly vague, then you inflate the side you are focused on to 2 bar while keeping an eye on each AirSpring making sure it is not bending any way incorrectly. Do this for each side. This is when you tighten up (Specs are for W211 E63) the Airspring Arm Bolts to 80 Nm + 90*, the Strut Bolts to 50 Nm + 90* and the AirSpring Bolts to 150Nm! After that, then you lower each side gradually so as not to stress the swaybar unnecessarily! Then finally you inflate each side to 5 bar! Then when you lower the Rear end to the ground by setting the rear end with a low profile jack and a 4"x4" block of wood under the differential to a normal ride height (approx 25 inches from the wheel wells to the ground) , then you either direct Xentry to inflate to "Previous" setting, or if that wasn't saved for some reason (like if you are starting out for the first time with Xentry, for example) then you must "Raise both sides manually" and inflate to where you see the car lifting beyond that point where your rear is being raised by the jack as you would NOT want to release the weight of the car without enough air in the AirSprings! I might add the Axle Nuts are to be tightened to 170Nm + 45*, even though with a 3 ft Breaker Bar I could only go about 30* max!! Then you use a special tool (or chisel) with a BFH to detent the locking rim of the nut to the axle. Hope this helps those of you out there trying this the first time!!

 

are your toe kits still available?