miamiE55

I have 4 issues:
1. 1. Why did the power curve disappear from 2300rpm-4700rpm
2. 2. Why is my torque so low?
3. 3. My power should have been in the 430hp range, I comparing to all the research on the forums I have done and the mods I have.
4. 4. My AFR was 10 or below, the gauge the dyno guy had wouldn’t go lower than 10..Could It be the tune or possibly my spark plugs ?

My Car has
Eurocharged Heat exchanger
Eurocharged top pulley the one with the clutch
Eurocharged stage 1 tune
Johnson IC pump
Green Air Filters
Removed 2nd cats and resonator
94,000 miles

The guy who owned the dyno doesn’t usually do Mercedes so he wasn’t sure either, I just went to get my numbers.
Dynomite Dyno
Air temp: 73-75 degrees
Air intake temp: 105-110 before run ( according to my obd2 Bluetooth reader)
Peak HP: 409 @6300
Peak Torque: 335 ish @6300

dchl21

I dunno but you are missing 100 tq at least... weird looking chart too

black06c230

was the car in dyno mode??

c55asleep?

What shop did you use?

Worth the wait

Dynos vary widely and are dependent on proper calibration and an experienced operator to obtain anything close to "accurate" numbers.
Dynomites are the cheapest option, so might be the above???

Might want to try a Dynojet.

uraberg

I hope you didn't pay for this. Something is wrong with data collection between 2300 and 6300 rpm (they have no data). The numbers are meaningless without this (your peak torque is probably around 3500 or so, and at 6300 they may have let off the gas). (peak HP and torque numbers aren't nearly as important as power under the curve.)

miamiE55

I put it on dyno mode and it was at DNA performance in Hialeah/Miami Lakes.

Follow up question: why would I need to put it in Dyno mode if abs and traction are not factors on a dyno?

Jaki

Looks like he went to DNA Performance Inc.


If you need a shop with a DynoJet or Dyno Dynamics let me know.

hachiroku

you'll first need dyno mode enabled as your ECU will cut power. secondly, looks like the dyno operator didn't correctly load the dyno with your car causing slippage, or the RPM pickup was not appropriately attached to the car.

i hope you didn't pay full price.

loungn14

+1 That dyno is a joke

SilverStrk

I Hope you didn't pay Anything for that crap.. It tells you Nothing.. That dyno is a joke. Find a legit shop with someone who knows what their doing.. Good luck...

c55asleep?

Haven't heard of them.... For a dyno run Gaby at Gaw Racing is ok...

Worth the wait

Man you guys are rough
I was trying to sugar coat it.....for once.

miamiE55

I blame myself, I should of known better than go to a place like that .....I'm going to get a new re-tune from EC either way my AFRs are way too rich hopefully that will help and I will go to a more reputable Dyno...

"Garage yourself "which is a shop in Miami that you can work on your own car has a Dyno dynamics 450 I think I was thinking of going there or a mustang Dyno I was suggested a little up north

loungn14

what were the iat's post run?

miamiE55

The ita did drop significantly After a few seconds so i think its cool "enough" for now can always be cooler offcourse

Worth the wait

Avoid dyno dynamics.

Mustangs have the ability to be the most accurate, but need an operator who is knowledgeable and proper routine maintenance and calibration.

Dyno jets are great as well. Nearly as accurate as Mustang, easier to use and maintain and have the added ego boost of reading higher

And always remember that dyno numbers are just that, numbers.
If you are looking to gauge how well a particular mod helped, a baseline dyno on the same machine, in very similar conditions (weather factor) is critical.

If you just want a great number, then tell the operator that and they will give you what you want...lol.

99lightning

I love my dynojet 224 nothing to screw with just strap it down and go and it never spits out a number that would not match ones quartermile mph.

miamiE55

I don't care too much about the numbers , I just want a clean smooth powerband, and a good AFR