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IMO that little reservoir is useless and won't do much at all for your cooling, I wouldn't waste my time with it. The best way to split it, is either with the engine bay tank or a trunk tank and I say this because those tanks have more capacity more fluid equals more cooling, Not bashing your thread as it's a cool little tank but just not my cup of tea..
I wonder why nobody has tried using the factory engine coolant reservoir as an intercooler tank. It's really big, and the only modification needed is adding an inlet so the fluid is moved through it. Would need to run a long hose to the newly added inlet on the coolant tank.
Replacing the engine coolant tank could be as simple as adding another small coolant tank in front of repurposed engine coolant tank. (similar to how Weistec supercharger kit works).
Does that small Weistec tank fit on the stock supercharger setup? If so it'd be perfect.
IMO that little reservoir is useless and won't do much at all for your cooling, I wouldn't waste my time with it. The best way to split it, is either with the engine bay tank or a trunk tank and I say this because those tanks have more capacity more fluid equals more cooling, Not bashing your thread as it's a cool little tank but just not my cup of tea..
I think you misunderstood the intent of my reservoir. Bleeding a split system of air is a colossal *****, and I resolved that issue... I didn't plan on improving my heat soak whatsoever
hey guys here is how mine is set up... i am working on finishing my engine bay tank, looks like the FTP one and has two outlets do i run the hoses to how my reservoir
Does FTP tank have its own fill port? If ao you can remove bmw reservoir (although you'll have to manually bleed as ftp tank doesn't have bleed port fitting)
I still keep looking for somewhere to put a larger reservoir. Maybe remove secondary air injector pump that's in front of driver side wheel well. Could probably get 2 gallons or maybe more if tank was shaped right.
Guys i also want to do split cooling now but i highly dislike the BMW reservoir.
When i enter "Ausgleichsbehälter" in german Ebay i get like 100.000 offerings for coolant overflow tanks of all kinds, brands, shapes.
There has to be one that fits but for instance holds more fluid volume and what i find very important, has a bleed-line port which is highly necessary to completely split it especially on the self-bleeding CL55AMG that i drive.
I would want to try some Daimler brand tanks with black top like the stock coolant overflow tank in my car, but for it there needs some measurements to be done.
It's really tight under the hood. Even the small BMW brake reservoir is snug.
Yes i know, but the CL is different though. I have measured a 10cm x 10cm spot for a reservoir in that dimensions (3.93inches x 3.93inches).
So far its impossible for me to get the dimensions on that Audi reservoir.
I keep wondering why the addiction to air/water heat exchangers which can't get the coolant water under ambient air temp ever. This is not a plug for Killer Chiller as that evaporator is found in many cold drink dispensers like at the burger chains which give you the empty cup to fill yourself. I moved the brake battery to the trunk and had a tank built to fit that space. I have a full time temp read out of the tank water which is fed straight from the KC. My tank water is always 20-30 F deg below ambient temps. Even after a full 1/4 mile run the tank water only increased 30 F deg, the usual 4-5 sec pulls on the street never get the water over ambient. Before I changed to a fixed pulley I had to run some anti-freeze as the tank water would often get below freezing. The temp read out will quickly tell you when the IC pump has stopped working. If you go to the bother of a tank for IC water, use the AC to cool it. Just my experience running both systems on my SL55. These engines just love cold water.
Hello,
thank you for your post. How did you do it with the cables and the battery?
Thanks
Originally Posted by trabots
I keep wondering why the addiction to air/water heat exchangers which can't get the coolant water under ambient air temp ever. This is not a plug for Killer Chiller as that evaporator is found in many cold drink dispensers like at the burger chains which give you the empty cup to fill yourself. I moved the brake battery to the trunk and had a tank built to fit that space. I have a full time temp read out of the tank water which is fed straight from the KC. My tank water is always 20-30 F deg below ambient temps. Even after a full 1/4 mile run the tank water only increased 30 F deg, the usual 4-5 sec pulls on the street never get the water over ambient. Before I changed to a fixed pulley I had to run some anti-freeze as the tank water would often get below freezing. The temp read out will quickly tell you when the IC pump has stopped working. If you go to the bother of a tank for IC water, use the AC to cool it. Just my experience running both systems on my SL55. These engines just love cold water.
The battery bracket is the same as which holds it down under the hood. I bought heavy cable for the positive side and just ran it down and under the car then up into the trunk. The negative is fixed to the same terminal the main battery uses. Attached is a pic of the tank temp gage I have in the cockpit. $10-20 on Ebay. You need to extend the probe wire if too short. I drilled a hole in the tank lid too drop the sensor down into the water. The system is not pressurized.
02-13-2015, 04:20 PM
