Supercharger Pulley Removal
#1
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Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 180
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From: Maitland, FL
C63 AMG, Camaro SS, E55 AMG, IROC-Z
Supercharger Pulley Removal
Hey,
I was wondering what you guys used to hold the SC pulley in place when removing it. I've heard strap wrench, I've heard clamps, I've heard oil filter removal tool. Have you guys ever tried just leaving the belt on, loosening the bolt, then releasing the tension?
Seems like the normal way to do it.. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
I was wondering what you guys used to hold the SC pulley in place when removing it. I've heard strap wrench, I've heard clamps, I've heard oil filter removal tool. Have you guys ever tried just leaving the belt on, loosening the bolt, then releasing the tension?
Seems like the normal way to do it.. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
#7
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 180
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From: Maitland, FL
C63 AMG, Camaro SS, E55 AMG, IROC-Z
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#8
Maybe he did the fan shroud mod...
Probably not though. You could use a crowfoot on the torque wrench, just put it on at a 90° angle or find the appropriate conversion chart.
Probably not though. You could use a crowfoot on the torque wrench, just put it on at a 90° angle or find the appropriate conversion chart.
#9
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: SWFL
E55, E320 CDI , CLA250, Jag XJ Supersport
1st time removing, mine was a B.
After breaking a strap wrench, I had to use clamps on the clutch and an electric impact after heating the bolt.
Now, it comes off with ease.
Practice torquing down a test bolt to 40lbs until you get the feel for it. Then just tighten the S/C bolt to that feel. Use red loctite.
After breaking a strap wrench, I had to use clamps on the clutch and an electric impact after heating the bolt.
Now, it comes off with ease.
Practice torquing down a test bolt to 40lbs until you get the feel for it. Then just tighten the S/C bolt to that feel. Use red loctite.
#10
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 180
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From: Maitland, FL
C63 AMG, Camaro SS, E55 AMG, IROC-Z
How did you get impact wrench in there? I did the fan shroud mod and the bolt does NOT want to come off..ii used the clamps, clamps with rubber around pulley and used a breaker bar instead of a wrench. It doesn't want to move.
1st time removing, mine was a B.
After breaking a strap wrench, I had to use clamps on the clutch and an electric impact after heating the bolt.
Now, it comes off with ease.
Practice torquing down a test bolt to 40lbs until you get the feel for it. Then just tighten the S/C bolt to that feel. Use red loctite.
After breaking a strap wrench, I had to use clamps on the clutch and an electric impact after heating the bolt.
Now, it comes off with ease.
Practice torquing down a test bolt to 40lbs until you get the feel for it. Then just tighten the S/C bolt to that feel. Use red loctite.
#11
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 180
Likes: 4
From: Maitland, FL
C63 AMG, Camaro SS, E55 AMG, IROC-Z
#12
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,380
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From: Clearwater Beach, Florida
2016 Cls63s AMG
here you go dude
if anyone is interested on knowing how to remove or add a pulley here is a little method... ( i cant believe i took my car to the dealer to do this )
anyways
Steps..
For those worried about scraching your clutch like me lol wrap it with tape twice you'll be good.
1. First get the tensioner lose and remove the belt off
2. Get two clams big enough to wrap around the clutch
3. put both of them on and offset them by a little so they hit on the engine cover holder pieces (also wrapped with tape)
4.grab a wrench and take the damm bolt off.
easiest job ever
When you put it back together just reverse the claps and bolt it on put some Teflon tape on or locktite w.e
if anyone is interested on knowing how to remove or add a pulley here is a little method... ( i cant believe i took my car to the dealer to do this )
anyways
Steps..
For those worried about scraching your clutch like me lol wrap it with tape twice you'll be good.
1. First get the tensioner lose and remove the belt off
2. Get two clams big enough to wrap around the clutch
3. put both of them on and offset them by a little so they hit on the engine cover holder pieces (also wrapped with tape)
4.grab a wrench and take the damm bolt off.
easiest job ever
When you put it back together just reverse the claps and bolt it on put some Teflon tape on or locktite w.e
#13
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 180
Likes: 4
From: Maitland, FL
C63 AMG, Camaro SS, E55 AMG, IROC-Z
The problem is my clamps are om the tightest they can get. But the pulley still slips. I'm going to try doubling up the clamps.
here you go dude
if anyone is interested on knowing how to remove or add a pulley here is a little method... ( i cant believe i took my car to the dealer to do this )
anyways
Steps..
For those worried about scraching your clutch like me lol wrap it with tape twice you'll be good.
1. First get the tensioner lose and remove the belt off
2. Get two clams big enough to wrap around the clutch
3. put both of them on and offset them by a little so they hit on the engine cover holder pieces (also wrapped with tape)
4.grab a wrench and take the damm bolt off.
easiest job ever
When you put it back together just reverse the claps and bolt it on put some Teflon tape on or locktite w.e
if anyone is interested on knowing how to remove or add a pulley here is a little method... ( i cant believe i took my car to the dealer to do this )
anyways
Steps..
For those worried about scraching your clutch like me lol wrap it with tape twice you'll be good.
1. First get the tensioner lose and remove the belt off
2. Get two clams big enough to wrap around the clutch
3. put both of them on and offset them by a little so they hit on the engine cover holder pieces (also wrapped with tape)
4.grab a wrench and take the damm bolt off.
easiest job ever
When you put it back together just reverse the claps and bolt it on put some Teflon tape on or locktite w.e
#15
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 19
From: SWFL
E55, E320 CDI , CLA250, Jag XJ Supersport
I did mine like Berti
You may need heat on the bolt, but that runs the risk of ruining the bearing seal.
You could also jack up the front of the motor to get a better angle with the impact. Also, my air impact wouldn't cut it - I had to use an electric impact gun with no extension.
You may need heat on the bolt, but that runs the risk of ruining the bearing seal.
You could also jack up the front of the motor to get a better angle with the impact. Also, my air impact wouldn't cut it - I had to use an electric impact gun with no extension.
#16
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 180
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From: Maitland, FL
C63 AMG, Camaro SS, E55 AMG, IROC-Z
How much does the motor move up?
I did mine like Berti
You may need heat on the bolt, but that runs the risk of ruining the bearing seal.
You could also jack up the front of the motor to get a better angle with the impact. Also, my air impact wouldn't cut it - I had to use an electric impact gun with no extension.
You may need heat on the bolt, but that runs the risk of ruining the bearing seal.
You could also jack up the front of the motor to get a better angle with the impact. Also, my air impact wouldn't cut it - I had to use an electric impact gun with no extension.
#17
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 180
Likes: 4
From: Maitland, FL
C63 AMG, Camaro SS, E55 AMG, IROC-Z
#18
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,057
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From: SWFL
E55, E320 CDI , CLA250, Jag XJ Supersport
1" or so.
If I was in your position though, I would remove the shroud altogether. Give yourself as much room to get leverage as possible. I couldn't believe how hard mine was to get off the first time - I had to give up a couple of times. I actually broke a breaker bar (harbor freight though)
If yours is that tough, you'll have to go in guns blazing. PB blaster a few days before, Torch on the bolt (sacrifice the bearing), remove fan shroud, jack up motor, strong impact with no extension.
or just pay someone
If I was in your position though, I would remove the shroud altogether. Give yourself as much room to get leverage as possible. I couldn't believe how hard mine was to get off the first time - I had to give up a couple of times. I actually broke a breaker bar (harbor freight though)
If yours is that tough, you'll have to go in guns blazing. PB blaster a few days before, Torch on the bolt (sacrifice the bearing), remove fan shroud, jack up motor, strong impact with no extension.
or just pay someone
#20
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 180
Likes: 4
From: Maitland, FL
C63 AMG, Camaro SS, E55 AMG, IROC-Z
I might have enough room with the fan shroud mod so I don't have to pull out the entire shroud. I will try all of that tonight. Thanks!
1" or so.
If I was in your position though, I would remove the shroud altogether. Give yourself as much room to get leverage as possible. I couldn't believe how hard mine was to get off the first time - I had to give up a couple of times. I actually broke a breaker bar (harbor freight though)
If yours is that tough, you'll have to go in guns blazing. PB blaster a few days before, Torch on the bolt (sacrifice the bearing), remove fan shroud, jack up motor, strong impact with no extension.
or just pay someone
If I was in your position though, I would remove the shroud altogether. Give yourself as much room to get leverage as possible. I couldn't believe how hard mine was to get off the first time - I had to give up a couple of times. I actually broke a breaker bar (harbor freight though)
If yours is that tough, you'll have to go in guns blazing. PB blaster a few days before, Torch on the bolt (sacrifice the bearing), remove fan shroud, jack up motor, strong impact with no extension.
or just pay someone
#21
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 180
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From: Maitland, FL
C63 AMG, Camaro SS, E55 AMG, IROC-Z
Ok guys so here's how it went. It's still on there. After heating up the bolt with a torch multiple times, trying every method online, I decided to use an impact wrencg with a swivel extension. 650lb torque Dewalt dual hammer impact wrencg with 125psi. The bolt didn't move. Now I'm thinking of jacking up the engine a little to get it straight without the use of a swivel extension.
Do I have to remove the motor mounts or do they have an inch or so of play like I was told? Thanks
Do I have to remove the motor mounts or do they have an inch or so of play like I was told? Thanks
#23
Ok guys so here's how it went. It's still on there. After heating up the bolt with a torch multiple times, trying every method online, I decided to use an impact wrencg with a swivel extension. 650lb torque Dewalt dual hammer impact wrencg with 125psi. The bolt didn't move. Now I'm thinking of jacking up the engine a little to get it straight without the use of a swivel extension.
Do I have to remove the motor mounts or do they have an inch or so of play like I was told? Thanks
Do I have to remove the motor mounts or do they have an inch or so of play like I was told? Thanks
1) lift the vehicle ,and support it on jack stands
2) Remove the under engine panels
3) Remove the two lower bolts for the engine mounts
4) Jack the engine up to create the proper angle(put a 2x4 between the
jack, and oil pan to disburse the load)
5) Use your impact to remove the bolt
#24
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Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 17
Likes: 2
From: Elko, NV
2004 E55, 2001 GMC Sonoma ZR2, 2000 Dodge Dakota, 1977 Dodge W100, 1972 Dodge Challenger
This is what I used to get my pulley off. Didn't need to raise the engine or cut the shroud. But I thought I was going to break that strap wrench. Matco 15/16 socket, B306. It's pretty shallow and 3/8 drive. Should be able to get my 3/8 torque wrench on it. The strap wrench is a Titan 21315. I really needed one with a heavier strap and a longer handle. The breaker bar is just your average Craftsman 3/8. Which I then put a 3' bar on.
I know this is an older thread, but I wanted to show what worked for me. All told, unlock car, pop hood, remove belt cover, remove belt, maybe 30 minutes tops, and that included searching for stuff in my incredibly messy garage.
#25
I picked up an oil filter socket (super shallow) from Autozone that has worked well for me. Put the breaker bar on there or just a 3/8 ratchet with cheater bar (I use the jack handle).
I use a rubber strap wrench for opposite direction force.
I did a little cutout on the fan shroud as well to give a bit of extra room. This won't affect structure integrity of the shroud if you do it right.
Every dang time....wear leather gloves. You never know when you'll slip and bust a knuckle.
I use a rubber strap wrench for opposite direction force.
I did a little cutout on the fan shroud as well to give a bit of extra room. This won't affect structure integrity of the shroud if you do it right.
Every dang time....wear leather gloves. You never know when you'll slip and bust a knuckle.