Intermittent Stumbling Idle Advice - E55
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Looking to buy a Stock Throttle Body and MAP sensor
#27
Get a silicon coupler, cut it down to maybe an inch in length, then use the coupler between the intake y-pipe and the throttle body. You'll need to cut the coupler down to the shortest length you can (just short enough to get two clamps on it). Then it'll be sealed up 100%, without any worries about the stock gasket slipping off or letting air through.
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Get a silicon coupler, cut it down to maybe an inch in length, then use the coupler between the intake y-pipe and the throttle body. You'll need to cut the coupler down to the shortest length you can (just short enough to get two clamps on it). Then it'll be sealed up 100%, without any worries about the stock gasket slipping off or letting air through.
The last 3-4 times I have checked the Y Pipe join it has been on there Tight, as in I could tug/pull on it and there was no movement
What size coupler do you think will fit, 3"?
** NOTE ** When ever I seem to reset the adaptations and reset the throttle and fuel settings to default I get 1-3 days of trouble free driving
#29
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Germany
Posts: 698
Received 16 Likes
on
13 Posts
C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
Leaks BEFORE the Throttle body should not be an issue for any car. Measurement for the ECU starts there*.
EDIT: MAP Sensor is like 20€ in germany. I could get new MB ones from a guy over Ebay for IIRC 15€/Piece and the IAT Sensor for the same. Need a Set? I would check for express shipping to NZ maybe its worth it?
Edit2: Price for International Express is 69€ with DHL. Delivery within 4 days to New Zealand. Need something? :-)
*At MAF equipped cars, measurements starting there for the ECU
EDIT: MAP Sensor is like 20€ in germany. I could get new MB ones from a guy over Ebay for IIRC 15€/Piece and the IAT Sensor for the same. Need a Set? I would check for express shipping to NZ maybe its worth it?
Edit2: Price for International Express is 69€ with DHL. Delivery within 4 days to New Zealand. Need something? :-)
*At MAF equipped cars, measurements starting there for the ECU
Last edited by Crissus; 03-26-2015 at 07:16 PM.
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Leaks BEFORE the Throttle body should not be an issue for any car. Measurement for the ECU starts there*.
EDIT: MAP Sensor is like 20€ in germany. I could get new MB ones from a guy over Ebay for IIRC 15€/Piece and the IAT Sensor for the same. Need a Set? I would check for express shipping to NZ maybe its worth it?
Edit2: Price for International Express is 69€ with DHL. Delivery within 4 days to New Zealand. Need something? :-)
*At MAF equipped cars, measurements starting there for the ECU
EDIT: MAP Sensor is like 20€ in germany. I could get new MB ones from a guy over Ebay for IIRC 15€/Piece and the IAT Sensor for the same. Need a Set? I would check for express shipping to NZ maybe its worth it?
Edit2: Price for International Express is 69€ with DHL. Delivery within 4 days to New Zealand. Need something? :-)
*At MAF equipped cars, measurements starting there for the ECU
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Was just about to order a MAP Sensor and then ran everything up on STAR and have a host of codes that had not shown up before
P202b-002 Idle Speed Control Implausible - Short circuit to ground or open circuit
P20D4 load limit active
P20A2 - Idle speed control Implausible
P202b-002 comes up every time even after clearing the codes
Went through every test i could in star and all values etc are in range
P0106 still gets logged via Torque Pro App on my Phone but no sign of it in STAR?
Anyone have any ideas before I go and get the SMOKE test done that I had booked it in for.....but cancelled because it was driving perfect for 2 days?
I have gone through all vacuum lines and seals and sprayed everything with ether and watched my Short term Fuel Trims and nothing changes
* I resealed the surge tanks and throttle body with high temp RTV sealant the other night when the car was running rough as guts, this then ran, idled and coasted perfectly for 2 days (you couldn't even tell the engine was on while stopped at lights - I did reset all adaptations though which I had done previously and this also made the car run good for 2-3 days)
* I do trust my sealing/gasket job as I am not a stranger to engines etc but hey Sh*t happens
P202b-002 Idle Speed Control Implausible - Short circuit to ground or open circuit
P20D4 load limit active
P20A2 - Idle speed control Implausible
P202b-002 comes up every time even after clearing the codes
Went through every test i could in star and all values etc are in range
P0106 still gets logged via Torque Pro App on my Phone but no sign of it in STAR?
Anyone have any ideas before I go and get the SMOKE test done that I had booked it in for.....but cancelled because it was driving perfect for 2 days?
I have gone through all vacuum lines and seals and sprayed everything with ether and watched my Short term Fuel Trims and nothing changes
* I resealed the surge tanks and throttle body with high temp RTV sealant the other night when the car was running rough as guts, this then ran, idled and coasted perfectly for 2 days (you couldn't even tell the engine was on while stopped at lights - I did reset all adaptations though which I had done previously and this also made the car run good for 2-3 days)
* I do trust my sealing/gasket job as I am not a stranger to engines etc but hey Sh*t happens
Last edited by menace2sobriety; 03-27-2015 at 03:19 AM.
#32
Leaks BEFORE the Throttle body should not be an issue for any car. Measurement for the ECU starts there*.
EDIT: MAP Sensor is like 20€ in germany. I could get new MB ones from a guy over Ebay for IIRC 15€/Piece and the IAT Sensor for the same. Need a Set? I would check for express shipping to NZ maybe its worth it?
Edit2: Price for International Express is 69€ with DHL. Delivery within 4 days to New Zealand. Need something? :-)
*At MAF equipped cars, measurements starting there for the ECU
EDIT: MAP Sensor is like 20€ in germany. I could get new MB ones from a guy over Ebay for IIRC 15€/Piece and the IAT Sensor for the same. Need a Set? I would check for express shipping to NZ maybe its worth it?
Edit2: Price for International Express is 69€ with DHL. Delivery within 4 days to New Zealand. Need something? :-)
*At MAF equipped cars, measurements starting there for the ECU
I know my 82mm issues got much much better after using silicon coupler between y-pipe and throttle body.
For stock throttle body, a 3.5" coupler will work.
Last edited by JoeNobody; 03-27-2015 at 08:22 PM.
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=JoeNobody;6378790]
Yes, Loose Y Pipes have been documented to throw P0106 codes which is why I initially went down the path of sealing and resealing and refitting my Y Pipe thinking that was the issue
But after the past 5 times now I have checked the y Pipe and it has not been loose and I have even been unable to wiggle it as it is that secured, plus I have sprayed ether all around it and STFT's have not changed which would indicate it is sealed
This is driving me bonkers
I am going to possibly remove and reseal everything again tomorrow and then take it in for a smoke test
Then last resort take it into a workshop and bend over and take one for the team
Leaks BEFORE the Throttle body should not be an issue for any car. Measurement for the ECU starts there*.
EDIT: MAP Sensor is like 20€ in germany. I could get new MB ones from a guy over Ebay for IIRC 15€/Piece and the IAT Sensor for the same. Need a Set? I would check for express shipping to NZ maybe its worth it?
Edit2: Price for International Express is 69€ with DHL. Delivery within 4 days to New Zealand. Need something? :-)
*At MAF equipped cars, measurements starting there for the ECU[/QUOTE
Leaks before throttle body can cause issues, just look at some of the 82mm throttle body threads.
I know my 82mm issues got much much better after using silicon coupler between y-pipe and throttle body.
For stock throttle body, a 3.5" coupler will work.
EDIT: MAP Sensor is like 20€ in germany. I could get new MB ones from a guy over Ebay for IIRC 15€/Piece and the IAT Sensor for the same. Need a Set? I would check for express shipping to NZ maybe its worth it?
Edit2: Price for International Express is 69€ with DHL. Delivery within 4 days to New Zealand. Need something? :-)
*At MAF equipped cars, measurements starting there for the ECU[/QUOTE
Leaks before throttle body can cause issues, just look at some of the 82mm throttle body threads.
I know my 82mm issues got much much better after using silicon coupler between y-pipe and throttle body.
For stock throttle body, a 3.5" coupler will work.
But after the past 5 times now I have checked the y Pipe and it has not been loose and I have even been unable to wiggle it as it is that secured, plus I have sprayed ether all around it and STFT's have not changed which would indicate it is sealed
This is driving me bonkers
I am going to possibly remove and reseal everything again tomorrow and then take it in for a smoke test
Then last resort take it into a workshop and bend over and take one for the team
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
* Apart from a belt wrap kit and Throttle Body Shaft Grind my car is 100% stock, no tune, no pulleys etc
Just one question
My Throttle Body when I removed it the throttle flap is closed
All of the E55 stock ones I have seen in photos etc all have the throttle flap wide open when removed?
Can anyone explain this?
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#39
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#41
I had these issues when my fuel sending unit was going, replaced all kinds of sensors and it did not solve the issue. Cleared CEL codes constanly and they would always return. Check for leaks around the fuel sending unit(s) under the back seat. I also had a vacuum leak that was caused from the closed system allowing air into the tank and it also initiated charcoal cannister codes. I hope you find a solution.
#42
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Got a smoke test done today
NOTHING
No Leaks anywhere
Back to the drawing board
The mechanic did hook up a scanner and there was something he could not explain
He was checking the o2 sensors operation and they looked good but the was another area in his menu that was logging that looked out of whack
Something along the lines of (Converter Cylinder 7-8) , the other o2 sensors were going up and down but this log was going up....straight line....going down....straight line etc
He was not sure what this was referring to - anyone know?
His codes also showed
P202B-002 (Fixed code, always comes back straight away)
P20A2
These are the same codes I have been getting for a week now
Not sure where to go now - I was adamant I was going to find a leak
- Throttle Body?
- MAP Sensor?
- o2 Sensor/s?
NOTHING
No Leaks anywhere
Back to the drawing board
The mechanic did hook up a scanner and there was something he could not explain
He was checking the o2 sensors operation and they looked good but the was another area in his menu that was logging that looked out of whack
Something along the lines of (Converter Cylinder 7-8) , the other o2 sensors were going up and down but this log was going up....straight line....going down....straight line etc
He was not sure what this was referring to - anyone know?
His codes also showed
P202B-002 (Fixed code, always comes back straight away)
P20A2
These are the same codes I have been getting for a week now
Not sure where to go now - I was adamant I was going to find a leak
- Throttle Body?
- MAP Sensor?
- o2 Sensor/s?
#44
Senior Member
Thread Starter
All the E55 ones on Ebay etc that I have found and enquired about do not ship to NZ
Apparently the E500/S500 etc etc about another 100 models have the same number TB that apparently will fit and work
S500/S55 etc Part number A 113 141 01 25
E55 Part Number A 113 141 03 25
I have found a few of these but the only issue was they did not have the plug/loom that plugs into it so I would then be stuck without a loom
My plug on the E55 TB is glued into the TB area and if I attempted to remove this I would most likely destroy the plug
I also put a post up to see if anyone had an E55 throttle body that I could buy
No Go
BTW - Still looking for a TB if there are any out there
#45
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just updating this thread as PROBLEM SOLVED
Throttle body arrived, fitted it and it instantly transformed the car, no more fault codes, idles smooth, power I hadnt even noticed it lacking has seem to come back strong through low-mid throttle, boost comes on strong and smooth, no longer feels like it has a holley carb through the rev range
Intial issues were the exact symptoms as the 82mm throttle body but on a stock 74mm unit
Stumbling with P0106 codes and fuel trims going lean and O2s sticking to 0.1V when using low-no throttle in stop start traffic but only after 20 minutes or so
Also P202B-002 code after 4 weeks appearing after the P0106's and becoming a static code
Thanks for everyones help and suggestions in this thread
Throttle body arrived, fitted it and it instantly transformed the car, no more fault codes, idles smooth, power I hadnt even noticed it lacking has seem to come back strong through low-mid throttle, boost comes on strong and smooth, no longer feels like it has a holley carb through the rev range
Intial issues were the exact symptoms as the 82mm throttle body but on a stock 74mm unit
Stumbling with P0106 codes and fuel trims going lean and O2s sticking to 0.1V when using low-no throttle in stop start traffic but only after 20 minutes or so
Also P202B-002 code after 4 weeks appearing after the P0106's and becoming a static code
Thanks for everyones help and suggestions in this thread
#47
TB
Just updating this thread as PROBLEM SOLVED
Throttle body arrived, fitted it and it instantly transformed the car, no more fault codes, idles smooth, power I hadnt even noticed it lacking has seem to come back strong through low-mid throttle, boost comes on strong and smooth, no longer feels like it has a holley carb through the rev range
Intial issues were the exact symptoms as the 82mm throttle body but on a stock 74mm unit
Stumbling with P0106 codes and fuel trims going lean and O2s sticking to 0.1V when using low-no throttle in stop start traffic but only after 20 minutes or so
Also P202B-002 code after 4 weeks appearing after the P0106's and becoming a static code
Thanks for everyones help and suggestions in this thread
Throttle body arrived, fitted it and it instantly transformed the car, no more fault codes, idles smooth, power I hadnt even noticed it lacking has seem to come back strong through low-mid throttle, boost comes on strong and smooth, no longer feels like it has a holley carb through the rev range
Intial issues were the exact symptoms as the 82mm throttle body but on a stock 74mm unit
Stumbling with P0106 codes and fuel trims going lean and O2s sticking to 0.1V when using low-no throttle in stop start traffic but only after 20 minutes or so
Also P202B-002 code after 4 weeks appearing after the P0106's and becoming a static code
Thanks for everyones help and suggestions in this thread
#48
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Intial issues were the exact symptoms as the 82mm throttle body but on a stock 74mm unit
STOCK 74mm
************************************************** ***************
I posted up the resolution because I literally searched online in every thread I could, even on other models for over a month, every thread that was having the same symptoms would eventually stop dead and no more posts along with a tonne of run around try this try that, replace this replace that, so therefore you would not know if it was fixed or what the fix was....if there was one
I hope everyone can update their threads with what fixed their issue/s so that when searched and found in Google it is not a big waste of time for the person searching and reading an entire thread looking for a solution that never gets noted
STOCK 74mm
************************************************** ***************
I posted up the resolution because I literally searched online in every thread I could, even on other models for over a month, every thread that was having the same symptoms would eventually stop dead and no more posts along with a tonne of run around try this try that, replace this replace that, so therefore you would not know if it was fixed or what the fix was....if there was one
I hope everyone can update their threads with what fixed their issue/s so that when searched and found in Google it is not a big waste of time for the person searching and reading an entire thread looking for a solution that never gets noted
The following users liked this post:
nanayaw6 (03-14-2017)
#50
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 11
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2006 E55
Is it reasonable to say that the issues you had with your stock 74mm TB were due to grinding it down? I've read other posts where users did a TB grind mod and **** it up, resulting in error code(s) thrown. It's something I've been considering doing. When you were trying to resolve your TB issues, did you ever reset the TB adaptation settings? (copied from another thread)
1. Put TB on and reset the ECU with a scan tool. Don't start the car yet!
2. Go over to the throttle body and unhook the cable going to it.
3. Turn ignition key to the stage right before the car turns on. (position 2)You should get a error on the dash. (ESP Visit Workshop) wait 20 seconds and then turn the key to the first position not 0. leaving key intact.
4. Plug the cable back in.
5. Now go put the key to the stage right before the car starts and wait 3 min, the car will re adapt the throttle body and you will hear it move on its on. While this is going on, put everything back together!
6. Start car from position 2, and everything should be okay, tap gas peddle, rpm should drop normally, if they get stuck, or if you have a CEL, you did NOT do the reset correctly!
1. Put TB on and reset the ECU with a scan tool. Don't start the car yet!
2. Go over to the throttle body and unhook the cable going to it.
3. Turn ignition key to the stage right before the car turns on. (position 2)You should get a error on the dash. (ESP Visit Workshop) wait 20 seconds and then turn the key to the first position not 0. leaving key intact.
4. Plug the cable back in.
5. Now go put the key to the stage right before the car starts and wait 3 min, the car will re adapt the throttle body and you will hear it move on its on. While this is going on, put everything back together!
6. Start car from position 2, and everything should be okay, tap gas peddle, rpm should drop normally, if they get stuck, or if you have a CEL, you did NOT do the reset correctly!
Last edited by DocHolliday; 01-21-2016 at 11:52 PM.