EREBUS

I'm curious what a set up like yours would do for the 1/2 mile or 1 mile races......especially since the October and March races down here stay in the mid 80's to low 90's during the events. I have seen my iced down intercooler system raise 25+ degrees in IATs @5 minutes while waiting on some jack*ss who kept stalling.


Meth/Water injection will not do much if you are only using half of the required GPH nozzles to maintain IATs once the reduced amount of intercooler water starts heating up. Centerline's set-up is for the long haul(a$$).......not short bursts.

jmb614

EREBUS

Consistent figures are always a beautiful thing!


It seems your set up is perfect for your vehicle! Keeping boost below and near 13 psi stops a lot of headache with the amount of heat our blowers make past their efficiency. (was your ambient 70 degrees?)


I'm still curious what it would do from the dig to high speeds with warm to hot ambient temps?

BlackHammer

JMB614...

WOW. These #'s are great. What type of HE set-up are you running?
Heck, please provide the full list of mods! How close to you are hitting that 11.1 at 124.

TK

BC928

140 degree intake air temp will be at or past the knock threshold for most pump fuels (sans e85) for this engine.

Under 90 is perfect though.
Do you possibly have the knocks for that run or is that not available data? Meth must be reducing not only the IATs to a nice level, but also staving off knock chemically.

chawkins2001

I have videos of 84* ambient tempts with my iats at 54*. Cooling mods are trunk tank, KC and split cooling only (no HX).

Hulk

At the end of the day what matters is timing and knock. If your timing stays constant and what the tune is calling for you will be good.

jmb614

IAT's typically show the same delta relative to ambient. With the ability to adjust the IDC%/inj gain through the AQ controller and meth/water mixture I can adjust relative delta and keep AFR's roughly the same. For example, at -15% gain IAT's will drop well below ambient through the first half of a 1-3 pull. Boost climbs into the mid to upper 14's in fourth gear, 185 pulley. Single EC HE with 3.5 gallon trunk tank with ice.

From a dig:

trabots

Sorry about this probably dumb question, I have just finished reading the whole thread. How do I access the IATs without installing my own sensor? I have the OBD cable from Eurocharged.

Ruthle55

OBD cable will be useless unless the car itself is tuned by Eurocharge.

If it is, download the Eurocharge euroflash software. You should be able to log the car, including IATs with the software and cable.

Hulk likes to think the software isn't fast enough, lol.

Hulk

It isn't and I'm not the only one that knows that. I don't feel like arguing this any longer. Believe what you will

jmb614

The protocol used in the ME2.8 has a relatively slow refresh rate, logging multiple PID's via OBD2 further splits the refresh rate by the number logged. If you look at my graph, you can see the lower resolution of the sensors logged via OBD2, (including IAT). If only logging two or three PID's you should have enough resolution to at least give a general idea.

IMO it would be optimal to use an external IAT sensor, placed in a location that measure temps closest to the chambers, i.e., the surge tanks.

trabots

I do have the Eurocharged software which I have used to upload tunes.I will contact Jerry to see where/how to do this. Thanks mate.

Ruthle55

Well, you're wrong. So thats fine.




Open up your software, load the file thats on the car into the software itself like you would when you're about to flash a file. Click the data logging part of the software. You'll see it. Start live log or whatever it says, then another button that says start logging or whatever.

Just log IATs and manifold pressure.

Hulk

You are wrong

M3diesel

Well said Jason and that is coming from someone that has put more time and effort into this platform than just about any owner.

Ruthle55
Here is an analogy that you should be able to understand in reference to your wrong assumption that the OBD is equal to direct sensor logging. When they went to a drive by wire system on the throttle body everyone complained of the lag in the pedal. The reason is that the throttle signal has to go to the ECU first and then to the throttle body so there is a delay unlike a mechanical cable attached from the pedal to the throttle body itself. The information is delayed due to the sampling rate and the rate at which the information is returned to the ECU and then in turn to the OBD port. That is why it is imperative that you use either 1 or 2 parameters only to log so that it doesn't slow down the data rate and accuracy of the info. Not sure why you always seem to have an issue with Hulk considering he has been quite an asset to most members on this forum. His car has gone 11.06 in the FL heat Jason has gone 11.1 and your car has only run a 11.4X with a trap of only 120 so maybe you should heed some of the advice of the members that are a lot faster than you.....just saying!!

Joncl

Ruthless you are a douche man! You put down these cars at every chance and say that it's worthless etc.

Dude you are not ruthless you are worthless!

Jmb614 and hulk have actually went out and tested the difference in logging and many have switched to better logging because of guys like them. You come here saying stuff that makes no sense. Didn't you sell your piece of garbage car?

Get out and don't come back douche

Ruthle55

It doesn't take a genius to realize that even while logging a car, if your refresh rate is even a second, you aren't going to lose valuable information timing wise. And it's not going to magically make your IATs 20 degrees lower or higher. Don't be an idiot.

Piece of garbage car? I always ask Hulk to post his mods and time slips so we can compare but he never does

Mid 120s on race fuel, and probably a 10 second pass without weight reduction with the most basic of mods. Meanwhile you have guys trapped 113 saying they run with hellcats

Joncl

Like has been posted more than 2 things through the obd is the problem you claim you can do 4-5-6 and no issues. You are a real loser. You think taking out weight will get you from 11.4 to 10s? What a joke. Go get the 10 sec pass then talk idiot

Ruthle55

I never claimed to do up to 6. I logged Intake temp, timing, and Id sometimes log manifold pressure.

Time posted in my signature is without the smaller s/c pulley, injectors, and ms109, AND both re-tunes for pump/race gas. So yes. I truly believe an extra 50whp+a 1.54 60ft that the car could have cut would have put me in the 10s. At a track with positive DA. Thats neither here nor there. The car is sold and I stick around because its funny.

Wheres your time slips?

Joncl

Hey worthless wow you are a master of what ifs lol
What if I add a pulley and add this or that and give me good da lol go away worthless. I have run years ago and never said to be able to run 10s unlike you worthless

Ruthle55

They weren't really "what ifs"

I never went back to the track on the smaller pulley/race gas/retune. I also know the car can cut a better 60.

Post your slip then. Since my garbage car was slow and yours was much faster.

Joncl

Never claimed it was faster worthless lol what if worthless had a brain instead of marbles would be be able to get 10s because he would weigh less lol

You are a joke all you do is spew garbage. Btw your car was fully modded with cams too and you couldn't get 10s wow! What are you going to blame? The tree was too fast for your worthless brain lol

Post your slip and teach us oh great worthless lol

Ruthle55

Reaction time has nothing to do with your ET or trap speed.

It is obvious you're a moron, and probably a psychopath.

Joncl

Whatever you say worthless! Post your imaginary 10 sec time slip , you know the one that you would have had if you had more mods, had a better 60' and great da and oh ya weighed less lol

You had a crank pulley, 82mm tb, long tubes, CAMS and ran 11.4 like you claim. Guys with no cams ran faster than you and they actually have a brain unlike you worthless