I would rather add a water/meth injection kit or killer chiller than throw a ricer hood on an E55.

 

Kinda ugly too lol
Remember the scoop hood lol

 

This would be badass though!

 

VOMIT lol

 

The scoops should be turned around for heat extraction. Duh.

 

With that many scoops I'm not sure it would matter ;-)

 

Just to chime in her a little late but I have found that by using an over ride switch for the cooling fan and bringing the engine temp down to 182* lowers the air charge some 15* or so. When I am going to be driving and beating on it I will turn it on bring temps down and have some fun! Fan is a little loud but who cares ...when I am done I just switch back and its back to normal. Makes a big difference.

 

I find the 10c mod to not be enough when in staging lanes at the track.
Also, is it lowering the charge air at idle, cruising or at WOT?

 

It was easy. Found the signal wire from the pcm and just "interupted" the signal feed wire back from the fan. The fan will now run at full speed. Installed a small low profile switch on the lower dash out of the way and it all works perfect.And yes charge air cooled at all levels no matter what.....does not matter and you can just watch the temps come down right away!

 

Isn't there some way to temporarily control the fans using the AC hidden menu?

 

Hey Hulk - - -

I would argue that the phenolic spacers could be worth 5-8 degrees F while cruising as they do isolate the surge tanks. Full disclosure; I never conducted a before/after test. That said, at 100 kph my IAT's are about +10F over ambient. At 160 kph the IAT's are about +15F over ambient (S/C is making more heat and the intake air velocity is greater reducing the heat exchange process). At WOT and higher S/C speed IAT's rise rapidly and the higher air velocity most likely reduces the temperature reduction to no more than 1-2F, if that. Although ever so slight, the spacers also raise the S/C out of the valley. So, as H.G. Wells wrote, it's all the little things that matter.

 

Even if the phenolic spacers gave you an edge of 10* at cruising once you go wot once or twice it is useless simply because the ic is completely heat soaked.

It's like the KC it's great to have that cold water going through the ic but once you go wot it shuts off the compressor and the ic gets heat soaked, that's the reason that the kc without a tank is not good. It's that tank fills with cold water that keeps that ic from heat soaking.

At the end of the day the ic is in a horrible position and is surrounded by heat in a small confined place. If someone would move the ic into an open setting like on top of the motor a la SLR it would help tremendously

 

I think that you guys are really focusing on the wrong part. If the intercooler is insufficient it is either a air restriction or does not have enough cooling area for the volume of air going though it. The later would present itself in high air temperatures under full throttle and would not exchange the heat into the water. This is a heat exchanger as well. If a trunk tank with cold water will keep the intake air temps down and eventually the water heat soaks then it is an issue with the front heat ex-changer not being able to pull the heat back out of the water. To the front mount heat exchanger simply need to be much larger to prevent the water from heating up. I have spoken to several different companies about this and bottom line is to prevent heat soak in the water you need a cooler that is basically the same size as the radiator.
Under full boost you are probably discharging somewhere in the neighborhood of 175-200 degree air before the cooler at full boost. Maybe hotter. The higher the temperature differential in the cooler the more heat it can pull out. The same is true for the front heat exchanger. Just as the supercharge is putting a lot of heat into the water by air volume at a given temperature the amount of air going across the front heat exchanger needs to be at a higher volume per sq inch to remove this heat. Or a larger surface area at a lower volume. Via a much larger front unit.
No matter what you need to get the heat out of the water.
With killer chillers you can do this but it takes time. There is no way that it can keep up with the btus at full load even if the compressor was on.

 

There's no air flow to that ic, it's in a heated valley. The slr doesn't suffer from heat soak because the coolers are not in a hot engine valley

 

What I mean by air flow is engine air flow through the intercooler not air around it. A SLR may have better intercoolers that can flow more air and remove more heat into the water but the water will heat soak. I have not looked at an SLR in a long time but I would imagine it has a much larger front heat exchanger. Air flow over the intercooler core is not going to do much. I have had air/water intercooling outside the engine bay and inside the engine bay on the same car/system it makes little to no difference. What matters is how hot the water is. Will heat around the outside eventually make a difference if not water is moving through it or it is sitting after shut down, yes. But that static hot air around the outside of the cooler is having little effect on the water temp or the outlet air temp.

 

Even if it has a bigger heat exchanger the SLR has better cooling because the cores are bigger actually. There is just no space in the valley for a more efficient core so we will always be battling the heat especially at higher boost levels

 

I agree given that the water temperature is under control. Given the same water temperature the increased size in the intercoolers the SLR has will yield better cooling. But at some point the water will get hot as that is how the air is getting cooled if the heat exchanger is not large enough to cool the water. You could have an intercooler the size of the engine and if the water going through it is 180 and the air going through it is 180 it will not do anything.

 

Denroll, the pyrogel not work for you on stock SC? That's too bad. On the weistec sc, it has reduced my cruising and wot iat. On cruising in summer time, I was around 15-30 degrees above ambiant. With the pyrolgel, it varies from 10 degrees below to 15 degrees above ambiant. Before my iats would get to 170ish on runs up to 115mph. After the pyrogel, it would get to 150ish-160ish degree. I also have killer chiller. I realize the differences are not that dramatic but it did make a positive difference with my weistec.