Lemfoerder Trans Mount
OEM brake light switch
OE Crank sensor
3 Mann oil filters with 6 washers & 6 drain plugs
Uro PS reservoir seal
Contitech SC belt - will this work if I change pulleys eventually?
Contitech Serp belt
Bosch wires
Bosch FR6MPP332 plugs
OEM valve cover gaskets

Any recommended changes or other things to add?

Cabin filter(s)?
Air filter(s)
Etc..

Might also look at ordering the ASP 5 piece kit from Shardul soon, I don't think there are any better/cheaper options?

 

How many miles?


*Lemfoerder Trans Mount
-if the motor mounts are bad, replace them and the trans mount. Otherwise, leave 'em alone until they break.
*OEM brake light switch
-keep a spare on hand but if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
*OEM Crank sensor
-if over 70K miles, yes.
*Mann oil filters with 6 washers & 6 drain plugs
- always a good idea.
*Uro PS reservoir seal
- Ummm...maybe?
*Contitech SC belt - will this work if I change pulleys eventually?
-any quality belt. See my post on the $27 rebuild vs $540 replacement of the supercharger idler pulley
*Contitech Serp belt
-any quality belt. I now plan on replacing all pulleys every 80K miles because at 90K miles the bearings are dry. Cheap and easier to replace in my garage rather than on the side of the road or in the dealer's shop.
* Bosch wires
-Rockauto.com. $141 plus shipping.
*Bosch FR6MPP332 plugs
-Or any equivalent. Look for rebates on Rockauto.com. If you use anti-seize, set your torque wrench to 16-17 foot-pounds to account for the lubrication.
*OEM valve cover gaskets
-if it ain't leaking, don't mess with it. Only replace if you have a leak.

Any recommended changes or other things to add?

Cabin filter(s)?
Air filter(s)
Etc..
-cabin filter is easy to replace and inexpensive.
-air filter yes.
-if 60K miles since fuel filter/regulator replaced, do it NOW! (Don't ask me how I know. If you search you'll find my tale of woe.) Don't forget the fuel pumps and the pump relay. It's gonna cost you ~$950 if you perform the work yourself (~2-3 hours labor). Just accept it. It doesn't get any cheaper. If it seems expensive, sell the Mercedes and purchase a Mazda.
-be prepared to purchase Arnott shocks front and rear. I'm doing mine at 100,000 miles.
-be prepared to purchase KMac camber bolts. I have them on hand and will install at 100,000 miles when I replace the OEM air shocks.
-voltage regulator. You may need to replace the entire alternator but maybe, maybe, you only need a regulator on the side of the road.
-throw a couple of spare relays in the trunk
--002-542-72-19 fuel pump relay
--002-542-19-28 circuit 15 and circuit 15R relays in front SAM


If you don't own a Star or DAS system, start looking now and purchase one ASAP. It's the only way to maintain a W211 E55. And you can sell it with the car.


Search, search, search.


Sign up for EPC. You provide credit card info but no charge is applied. I loved it when I walked into the local MB dealership to the parts counter and provided a list of what parts I needed and mentioned I pulled the info off of the EPC. The guy was startled that I had access to the same catalog he did. Now...he appreciates the fact I come in there, don't waste his time, and he makes a sale in half the time of a regular customer.

 

You guys use any grease on the spark plug boots?

 

Mileage is 121K - I added the filters
Will inspect fuel pump situation

I always use the di-electric grease on boots

 

Rear Main Seal? It should be going bad by now. Keep an eye out

 

Dry at this point but my VC's are leaking. Once those get sealed we'll see if a RM seal leak starts.