Can anyone explain the feeling of supercharger belt slip from the Drivers seat?
#1
Can anyone explain the feeling of supercharger belt slip from the Drivers seat?
Trying to figure out if that's my problem
That being said I have other problems, but those a better suited for a mental health professional
That being said I have other problems, but those a better suited for a mental health professional
#2
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'06 E55
If it starts to feel a little slower than it used to, or if you are on it pretty good and you let off the throttle abruptly and you hear a belt squealing.
From under the hood, pop off that front engine cover and see if there is any rubber dust built up on the bottom side of it. Give it a good cleaning and put it back on so you can tell if any new stuff builds up.
The good news is that changing the front belt is extremely easy. I also suggest looking into getting the belt wrap kit. It adds an extra pulley to the system that puts a lot more of the belt in contact with the crank and supercharger pulleys.
From under the hood, pop off that front engine cover and see if there is any rubber dust built up on the bottom side of it. Give it a good cleaning and put it back on so you can tell if any new stuff builds up.
The good news is that changing the front belt is extremely easy. I also suggest looking into getting the belt wrap kit. It adds an extra pulley to the system that puts a lot more of the belt in contact with the crank and supercharger pulleys.
#3
If it starts to feel a little slower than it used to, or if you are on it pretty good and you let off the throttle abruptly and you hear a belt squealing.
From under the hood, pop off that front engine cover and see if there is any rubber dust built up on the bottom side of it. Give it a good cleaning and put it back on so you can tell if any new stuff builds up.
The good news is that changing the front belt is extremely easy. I also suggest looking into getting the belt wrap kit. It adds an extra pulley to the system that puts a lot more of the belt in contact with the crank and supercharger pulleys.
From under the hood, pop off that front engine cover and see if there is any rubber dust built up on the bottom side of it. Give it a good cleaning and put it back on so you can tell if any new stuff builds up.
The good news is that changing the front belt is extremely easy. I also suggest looking into getting the belt wrap kit. It adds an extra pulley to the system that puts a lot more of the belt in contact with the crank and supercharger pulleys.
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Aside from the car falling flat on its face,like your driving an E500 ,data logging boost would be the way to go ,as far as belt squealing after punching it out and letting off after a burn out ,that's happened to me with stock set up and two different types of belt wrap kits ,I think that's just the s/c not slowing down as fast as engine ? Whatever causes it ,two belt wrap kits didn't stop it ,for me anyway
#5
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SRT-6
If it's slipping you should see some rubber dust around the supercharger pulley. It's more like the boost and power stop building early but it won't go from full grip to no grip at all. Falling on it's face could be from the intercooler pump or tensioner being weak.
Les
Les
#6
If it's slipping you should see some rubber dust around the supercharger pulley. It's more like the boost and power stop building early but it won't go from full grip to no grip at all. Falling on it's face could be from the intercooler pump or tensioner being weak.
Les
Les
Eric
#7
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Also look at it will it's at idle. I test drove one where the belt tensioner pulley had a crack in the bracket. At WOT it felt like it was cutting in and out. But if it's slipping like you say there should be belt dust visible.
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#8
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Personally with the S/C belt off, I feel it's very very sluggish in comparison to any normal V8. If you have a BWK, it adds time to the swap belt.. I've popped a S/C belt with BWK & it also got tangled with serp belt/CP knocking off a serp belt rib. So much for that no lift WOT pull.. Been good since.
Maybe time for a new S/C tensioner itself especially if high mileage & never replaced.
Maybe time for a new S/C tensioner itself especially if high mileage & never replaced.
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you are not already equipped to, you need to "gear up" for (at the very least) data collection that goes beyond what you see on your instrument cluster.
In other words, (and for this issue) you need to look at your boost, your IAT and check if you have any codes (pending or otherwise).
You can buy a simple obd2 bluetooth plugin for $11
Reading boost is always interesting and will tell you if your SC is being disabled (and/or suffering from unusually bad belt slip)
IAT (intake air temp) is interesting to monitor as well, and in this case will tell you if your charge cooling system is keeping the intake cool enough to keep the ECU from disabling the SC
Reading the codes is ALSO otherwise useful, but in this case may tell you about bypass throttle failures that cause the ECU to disable the SC (sometimes intermittently) or you may even have a primary throttle issue.
Of course there are other things that may cause the symptoms you are guessing you are having ... but it is time "gauge up" and see what you got. There are many here who are happy to give you suggestions as to what your butt dyno may be feeling ... but if you want to understand what your car is doing when it feels right and compare it to when it feels wrong ... you need to collect some data
EDIT ...
I just noticed in another thread (alternator) that you are already data logging ... (sorry if I came off "preachy" above)
why don't you post some of your data in this thread? Is your boost reading lower than you expect? Does it have fluctuations that coincide with the perceived drop in performance? You mentioned you checked you IC pump and re-bled - were your IATs high? (perhaps that is pulling timing?)
Cheers,
Chris
In other words, (and for this issue) you need to look at your boost, your IAT and check if you have any codes (pending or otherwise).
You can buy a simple obd2 bluetooth plugin for $11
Amazon.com: Foseal Car OBD2 OBD 2 OBDII Bluetooth Diagnostic Scan Tool Check Engine Light for Android & Windows System Torque Pro: Automotive
and then download the free version of "torque" and gather some data. You will be glad you did. Reading boost is always interesting and will tell you if your SC is being disabled (and/or suffering from unusually bad belt slip)
IAT (intake air temp) is interesting to monitor as well, and in this case will tell you if your charge cooling system is keeping the intake cool enough to keep the ECU from disabling the SC
Reading the codes is ALSO otherwise useful, but in this case may tell you about bypass throttle failures that cause the ECU to disable the SC (sometimes intermittently) or you may even have a primary throttle issue.
Of course there are other things that may cause the symptoms you are guessing you are having ... but it is time "gauge up" and see what you got. There are many here who are happy to give you suggestions as to what your butt dyno may be feeling ... but if you want to understand what your car is doing when it feels right and compare it to when it feels wrong ... you need to collect some data
EDIT ...
I just noticed in another thread (alternator) that you are already data logging ... (sorry if I came off "preachy" above)
why don't you post some of your data in this thread? Is your boost reading lower than you expect? Does it have fluctuations that coincide with the perceived drop in performance? You mentioned you checked you IC pump and re-bled - were your IATs high? (perhaps that is pulling timing?)
Cheers,
Chris
Last edited by latemodel21; 01-27-2016 at 01:23 PM.
#10
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2005 E55, GMC Whipple Supercharged Quadrasteer Denali Pickup,Big Bored Hyabusa with nitrous
I agree with latemodel21 about the OBD2 reader. They are so cheap now and can be very useful. If your going heavily modded I'd recommend a zeltronix wideband and data logging set up. You should be able to rule out belt slippage easily. As others have stated, the kind of power loss your describing would leave obvious belt dust/residue .
#11
If you are not already equipped to, you need to "gear up" for (at the very least) data collection that goes beyond what you see on your instrument cluster.
In other words, (and for this issue) you need to look at your boost, your IAT and check if you have any codes (pending or otherwise).
You can buy a simple obd2 bluetooth plugin for $11
Amazon.com: Foseal Car OBD2 OBD 2 OBDII Bluetooth Diagnostic Scan Tool Check Engine Light for Android & Windows System Torque Pro: Automotive and then download the free version of "torque" and gather some data. You will be glad you did.
Reading boost is always interesting and will tell you if your SC is being disabled (and/or suffering from unusually bad belt slip)
IAT (intake air temp) is interesting to monitor as well, and in this case will tell you if your charge cooling system is keeping the intake cool enough to keep the ECU from disabling the SC
Reading the codes is ALSO otherwise useful, but in this case may tell you about bypass throttle failures that cause the ECU to disable the SC (sometimes intermittently) or you may even have a primary throttle issue.
Of course there are other things that may cause the symptoms you are guessing you are having ... but it is time "gauge up" and see what you got. There are many here who are happy to give you suggestions as to what your butt dyno may be feeling ... but if you want to understand what your car is doing when it feels right and compare it to when it feels wrong ... you need to collect some data
EDIT ...
I just noticed in another thread (alternator) that you are already data logging ... (sorry if I came off "preachy" above)
why don't you post some of your data in this thread? Is your boost reading lower than you expect? Does it have fluctuations that coincide with the perceived drop in performance? You mentioned you checked you IC pump and re-bled - were your IATs high? (perhaps that is pulling timing?)
Cheers,
Chris
In other words, (and for this issue) you need to look at your boost, your IAT and check if you have any codes (pending or otherwise).
You can buy a simple obd2 bluetooth plugin for $11
Amazon.com: Foseal Car OBD2 OBD 2 OBDII Bluetooth Diagnostic Scan Tool Check Engine Light for Android & Windows System Torque Pro: Automotive and then download the free version of "torque" and gather some data. You will be glad you did.
Reading boost is always interesting and will tell you if your SC is being disabled (and/or suffering from unusually bad belt slip)
IAT (intake air temp) is interesting to monitor as well, and in this case will tell you if your charge cooling system is keeping the intake cool enough to keep the ECU from disabling the SC
Reading the codes is ALSO otherwise useful, but in this case may tell you about bypass throttle failures that cause the ECU to disable the SC (sometimes intermittently) or you may even have a primary throttle issue.
Of course there are other things that may cause the symptoms you are guessing you are having ... but it is time "gauge up" and see what you got. There are many here who are happy to give you suggestions as to what your butt dyno may be feeling ... but if you want to understand what your car is doing when it feels right and compare it to when it feels wrong ... you need to collect some data
EDIT ...
I just noticed in another thread (alternator) that you are already data logging ... (sorry if I came off "preachy" above)
why don't you post some of your data in this thread? Is your boost reading lower than you expect? Does it have fluctuations that coincide with the perceived drop in performance? You mentioned you checked you IC pump and re-bled - were your IATs high? (perhaps that is pulling timing?)
Cheers,
Chris
No pitch fork is not needed here just a enthusiast trying to fix his whip.
#12
It is belt slip, I changed the belt last night and it's all good.
The reason I did not by it was belt slip is because everything was fine until i change my alternator and the car started to have these problems. I know it was not timing because ecu pulling time is usually smooths things out and power is lost. I know these cars have fuel pump issues so I check pressure and that was fine. I know it was not a ignition issue because I never had misfires or CELs. I also did not think it was the belt because it was very clean around the pulleys and the belt looked good no cracks or anything. Thank you everyone again for the help.
The reason I did not by it was belt slip is because everything was fine until i change my alternator and the car started to have these problems. I know it was not timing because ecu pulling time is usually smooths things out and power is lost. I know these cars have fuel pump issues so I check pressure and that was fine. I know it was not a ignition issue because I never had misfires or CELs. I also did not think it was the belt because it was very clean around the pulleys and the belt looked good no cracks or anything. Thank you everyone again for the help.
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Good to hear you got it all sorted out.
#14
I was trying to help you out, not call you out. I'm here to for the former and not the latter. I'm sorry I was unable to make that clear. When you mentioned checking the charge cooling in your car, I assumed you wanted other types of input beyond what you had already gotten... I'll try to avoid making that mistake again.
Good to hear you got it all sorted out.
Good to hear you got it all sorted out.
But in my data after bleeding my IC system I did recovery back quicker so Top Tip when coolant is changed defiantly bleed your IC system just for good measure.
I made a huge mistake buy not trying to eliminate the simple causes and start looking at the more complex issues it could have been. Everything I read about belt slip from this board and Mustang and Corvette boards no one complained about unsmooth power delivery.
I only had turbo cars so I have a learn curve he with the SuperCharger.