Front Suspension questions
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 845
Likes: 45
From: ATL
2017 GLS 550
Front Suspension questions
Ok everyone
the Dealer quoted me a fair price to do upper ball joints, Lower Ctrl arm bushings and torque arm bushings. with an alignment it was about $2100.
But I am a DIY guy so, I ordered complete Lower control arms, new upper ball joints and 2 complete torque arms. total was just under $400.
now to the question. I am guessing the easiest way to this suspension work will be to go into DAS and relieve pressure on the front struts once the front end is off the ground. I am assuming this can be done with DAS.
Does anyone have the instructions on how to do this? I purchased a DAS but am still very new with it.
Thanks,
Jeff
the Dealer quoted me a fair price to do upper ball joints, Lower Ctrl arm bushings and torque arm bushings. with an alignment it was about $2100.
But I am a DIY guy so, I ordered complete Lower control arms, new upper ball joints and 2 complete torque arms. total was just under $400.
now to the question. I am guessing the easiest way to this suspension work will be to go into DAS and relieve pressure on the front struts once the front end is off the ground. I am assuming this can be done with DAS.
Does anyone have the instructions on how to do this? I purchased a DAS but am still very new with it.
Thanks,
Jeff
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Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Republic of Texas
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Go to “Control Units”, “Chassis”, “Airmatic”, select the air bag on which you will be working and follow the instructions.
Once you reassemble everything, go back into the same menu and re-inflate the air springs. Also, be sure to clear the codes afterward as anything and everything you disconnected will store a code.
If there is any chance you will need to loosen and remove a brake caliper, disable the SBC system.
Once you reassemble everything, go back into the same menu and re-inflate the air springs. Also, be sure to clear the codes afterward as anything and everything you disconnected will store a code.
If there is any chance you will need to loosen and remove a brake caliper, disable the SBC system.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 354
Likes: 32
04 E55 AMG
You won't need to relieve the pressure to do upper or lower ball joints or the bushings. I just did everything to my front suspension. You'll need a ball joint separator and a ball joint press to remove them. The torque arm bushings are not replaced without the whole arm assembly. Really wasn't to hard of a job. Any questions feel free to ask I'll try to help as best I can. I'd recommend doing the tie rod ends as well while you're down there.
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 845
Likes: 45
From: ATL
2017 GLS 550
You won't need to relieve the pressure to do upper or lower ball joints or the bushings. I just did everything to my front suspension. You'll need a ball joint separator and a ball joint press to remove them. The torque arm bushings are not replaced without the whole arm assembly. Really wasn't to hard of a job. Any questions feel free to ask I'll try to help as best I can. I'd recommend doing the tie rod ends as well while you're down there.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 354
Likes: 32
04 E55 AMG
I was able to separate the control arms from the shocks without any problems. It was a little snug getting them back on but it wasn't too much of a problem. I was trying to get some movement to get to the ball joint but I figured it out without having to remove everything. Just watch out for the sensor connected to the inner side of the brake disk shield it can easily be damaged during the removal. Yup I posted about the thrust arms. Super easy job. All together it shouldn't take you longer than 5-6 total.
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 259
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Jetta TDI [Daily] , Audi A8L [Sold], '12 STI [Sold], '06 E55 [Sold], '05 S500, '15 GLA250
Since we're talking front suspension, while you're in there, make sure to grab your wheels at 3:00 and 9:00 and give them a shake. I developed a clunk over the past few months (from a smallest little vibration in the wheel to eventually an annoying and loud clunk, floaty feeling, etc) on the right side of my car.
Initially thought it was sway bar, ball joints, etc. Grabbed each wheel and checked for play left/right, up/down. Driver's side was nice and tight. Pass. side had a few MM of slop in it and replicated the same thunk I was getting. Up and down play was non existent (meaning bearing was ok)
...lo and behold, I had a small 3/4" tear in my passenger side inner tie rod boot. That must have allowed grit, sand, water, etc get in there and wear that ball-in-socket joint out. Just replaced both sides last night with Lemforder. New inner's and outer's on both sides.
I kept the outer's because they were still good, along with the driver's side inner.
Here's the passenger side inner and boot:
Initially thought it was sway bar, ball joints, etc. Grabbed each wheel and checked for play left/right, up/down. Driver's side was nice and tight. Pass. side had a few MM of slop in it and replicated the same thunk I was getting. Up and down play was non existent (meaning bearing was ok)
...lo and behold, I had a small 3/4" tear in my passenger side inner tie rod boot. That must have allowed grit, sand, water, etc get in there and wear that ball-in-socket joint out. Just replaced both sides last night with Lemforder. New inner's and outer's on both sides.
I kept the outer's because they were still good, along with the driver's side inner.
Here's the passenger side inner and boot:
