STOP REDUCED BRAKING POWER Red light on dash. More info please.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: San Diego
E55
STOP REDUCED BRAKING POWER Red light on dash. More info please.
Today I got the warning light in red. STOP REDUCED BRAKING POWER. Then very little throttle input, I was able to drive to a safe spot. Turned off the car and restarted and everything fine. No lights nothing.
I have tried searching and got some good info, just a few questions if any experts can chime in:
1. Will the car initially try to brake and reduce throttle input to decrease risk of injury?
2. Could this happen while driving fast?
3. I read the brake light switch can cause this situation. Only 20 bucks I feel it's good insurance and seems easy to replace myself.
Anyone every experience this? Drive safe guys!
I have tried searching and got some good info, just a few questions if any experts can chime in:
1. Will the car initially try to brake and reduce throttle input to decrease risk of injury?
2. Could this happen while driving fast?
3. I read the brake light switch can cause this situation. Only 20 bucks I feel it's good insurance and seems easy to replace myself.
Anyone every experience this? Drive safe guys!
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Northern California
2004 E55 AMG; 1991 Previa
Battery issue, most likely the 'back-up' battery located underneath the filter on the passenger side firewall is going bad. There has been some chatter about the regulator underneath the plastic cowl that runs across the window but it rarely occurs. If anything check the manufacture dates on the main and back-up battery. Also measure the voltage across both battery to ensure that your alternator is running within specifications. Your local autozone/napa auto parts can check both battery's amperage to ensure they're good.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: San Diego
E55
Battery issue, most likely the 'back-up' battery located underneath the filter on the passenger side firewall is going bad. There has been some chatter about the regulator underneath the plastic cowl that runs across the window but it rarely occurs. If anything check the manufacture dates on the main and back-up battery. Also measure the voltage across both battery to ensure that your alternator is running within specifications. Your local autozone/napa auto parts can check both battery's amperage to ensure they're good.
I just replaced both batteries less then a year ago. But, I'll check the voltage today.
What if the batteries check out fine? Car drives normal no lights still. It came in like a phantom and left just as quick as it went on.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2014
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W211 E55 2003
I think it changes depending on the MY on what the message is when the aux battery goes, but im guessing it should be a battery logo and visit workshop.
Red and reduced braking warning is something really gone wrong, even for a sec and then you only have brakes on the front. Get the codes so youll be much smarter about it!
Red and reduced braking warning is something really gone wrong, even for a sec and then you only have brakes on the front. Get the codes so youll be much smarter about it!
Last edited by Elhonaz; Apr 10, 2016 at 03:03 PM. Reason: Corrected that you only have brakes in FRONT
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From: toronto
Gallado Spyder / AMG C63S / Cayenne
I don't want to jinx it bro... that happened to me when my sbc went. so I ignored it and it came back ... then I thought my pads were done so I changed them even tho there is meat left. few days later my sbc went ...and it was scary ape **** ... I lost almost all my brakes and car running rough I barely made it to the dealer.
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Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: San Diego
E55
I don't want to jinx it bro... that happened to me when my sbc went. so I ignored it and it came back ... then I thought my pads were done so I changed them even tho there is meat left. few days later my sbc went ...and it was scary ape **** ... I lost almost all my brakes and car running rough I barely made it to the dealer.
My SBC had some warranty work done awhile ago. I think it was a harness or bracket they changed? Not sure it was awhile ago.
I have a 2005. I think my 10 year warranty is up :-/
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From: Northern VA
W211
Being 2005 and if dealer just reset your counter in the sbc system, it might be now either the accumulator or the sbc pump itself is going bad. Happened to me and replaced both with 82,000 on the car. Brake pedal went past halfway for the car to stop at 20mph, so parked the car until i had time to get the sbpump and accmulator replaced.
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From: toronto
Gallado Spyder / AMG C63S / Cayenne
Ya that's what worries me. Can it happen at high speeds? Or does it have a fail safe to slow you down one last time before putting the car into limp mode too.
My SBC had some warranty work done awhile ago. I think it was a harness or bracket they changed? Not sure it was awhile ago.
I have a 2005. I think my 10 year warranty is up :-/
My SBC had some warranty work done awhile ago. I think it was a harness or bracket they changed? Not sure it was awhile ago.
I have a 2005. I think my 10 year warranty is up :-/
go talk to them ...complaint and see what you can get bro. you have to try ....its really expensive to replace the whole thing ...3-4k I belive.
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From: San Diego
E55
Being 2005 and if dealer just reset your counter in the sbc system, it might be now either the accumulator or the sbc pump itself is going bad. Happened to me and replaced both with 82,000 on the car. Brake pedal went past halfway for the car to stop at 20mph, so parked the car until i had time to get the sbpump and accmulator replaced.
Strangely it went away. I have a strong feeling it will return. I guess the brake light switch is a small fix and if it cures the issue then great. If not Its more money.
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From: San Diego
E55
Wow, I thought there would be more concern over this. Its time I buy a star. How much do they run and which ones are good?
Gonna make a trip to dealer to pull codes and see what they say.
Gonna make a trip to dealer to pull codes and see what they say.
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05 White Pano E55, Cadillac CTS-V
Mine showed that when alternator was going bad. Go to the settings on center display to where you can look at the voltage and see if you are getting low voltage or not. It can be seen how to get the Voltage screen up at beginning of this video. Make sure your door is closed or you won't be able to get it to work.
Thread Starter
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From: San Diego
E55
[QUOTE=urbamworm;6774761]Mine showed that when alternator was going bad. Go to the settings on center display to where you can look at the voltage and see if you are getting low voltage or not. It can be seen how to get the Voltage screen up at beginning of this video. Make sure your door is closed or you won't be able to get it to work.
Did you lose all brakes too? STOP REDUCED BRAKING all in red with beeping and almost 0 throttle input? Limp mode. Or was it one of those SBC warning lights. Because this one was full on, you're not going anywhere pull over now you have very little braking power.
My voltage is always steady around 13.8 volts when car is on. Maybe, my front battery is going out. I'm going to check voltage on that little sucker and report back!
Talked to Shardul he says it might have been voltage related. If it never comes back not to worry about it.
Did you lose all brakes too? STOP REDUCED BRAKING all in red with beeping and almost 0 throttle input? Limp mode. Or was it one of those SBC warning lights. Because this one was full on, you're not going anywhere pull over now you have very little braking power.
My voltage is always steady around 13.8 volts when car is on. Maybe, my front battery is going out. I'm going to check voltage on that little sucker and report back!
Talked to Shardul he says it might have been voltage related. If it never comes back not to worry about it.
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Northern California
2004 E55 AMG; 1991 Previa
[QUOTE=Max.H;6776209]
Battery's go bad, and should be changed often regardless. Did you ever get this issue fixed?
Mine showed that when alternator was going bad. Go to the settings on center display to where you can look at the voltage and see if you are getting low voltage or not. It can be seen how to get the Voltage screen up at beginning of this video. Make sure your door is closed or you won't be able to get it to work.
Did you lose all brakes too? STOP REDUCED BRAKING all in red with beeping and almost 0 throttle input? Limp mode. Or was it one of those SBC warning lights. Because this one was full on, you're not going anywhere pull over now you have very little braking power.
My voltage is always steady around 13.8 volts when car is on. Maybe, my front battery is going out. I'm going to check voltage on that little sucker and report back!
Talked to Shardul he says it might have been voltage related. If it never comes back not to worry about it.
Did you lose all brakes too? STOP REDUCED BRAKING all in red with beeping and almost 0 throttle input? Limp mode. Or was it one of those SBC warning lights. Because this one was full on, you're not going anywhere pull over now you have very little braking power.
My voltage is always steady around 13.8 volts when car is on. Maybe, my front battery is going out. I'm going to check voltage on that little sucker and report back!
Talked to Shardul he says it might have been voltage related. If it never comes back not to worry about it.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: San Diego
E55
Mine showed that when alternator was going bad. Go to the settings on center display to where you can look at the voltage and see if you are getting low voltage or not. It can be seen how to get the Voltage screen up at beginning of this video. Make sure your door is closed or you won't be able to get it to work.
Mercedes E55 Dyno Mode - YouTube
Mercedes E55 Dyno Mode - YouTube
Thread Starter
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From: San Diego
E55
[QUOTE=biggking;6800085]
It was just that one time. I checked bother batteries and tested perfect. Voltage reads same as it always does when car is on with accessories on 13.8 volts.
I dunno, I have some to change my fuel pumps, and remaining bushings on the front end. So, Im gonna wait till then. For now I'm not driving it too much.
I dunno, I have some to change my fuel pumps, and remaining bushings on the front end. So, Im gonna wait till then. For now I'm not driving it too much.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
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From: Tampa, FL
2006 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
Sorry to bring back this thread but this just happened to me. Got the message, turned car off, on again, no message/drives normal and brakes fine now. Did you ever get the message again or have to fix anything? I replaced the front battery less than 6 months ago, recently did the accumulator and the brake switch. I am also getting a slight noise when I press the brake pedal.
Last edited by kleeb55; Jan 3, 2017 at 09:44 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 43
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From: Tampa, FL
2006 Mercedes Benz E55 AMG
No I never cleared the code, but it did go away after a few hundred miles. That's a good point though, and as you know I also never bled it, I really need to invest in a STAR diagnostics system haha
