Quest for lower AIT...
04-18-2016, 03:05 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Quest for lower AIT...
Now that the larger HE and Bosch 010 pump is installed, I'm looking at lowering the AIT temps. There are a few choices ranging from trunk tanks, under hood tanks and split cooling. What is everyone's preferred choice from efficiency, to DIYer and expense?
It would be good to have a list of vendors with logs for references.
It would be good to have a list of vendors with logs for references.
04-19-2016, 02:21 AM
#2
Super Member
This has been discussed and debated for over a decade, for God's sake? Once you start adding boost on the M113K......you will quickly surpass the factory's maxed out intercooler efficiency. Period. End of story. Your journey of "lower IAT's" should end where you opened your thread................
Go no further and enjoy the vehicle. Why? Because a lot of us has asked the same damn question and have been told the same damn thing I'm telling you. Did we listen? No. Did we benefit from not listening? No. It's a very time consuming and expensive rabbit hole you don't want to fall into. Got it?
Are you stubborn?
Fair enough. Welcome to the club.
First off, Split the damn system. Remove coolant from the intercooler system and replace with pure distilled water. Maybe add some Redline Wetter or Royal Purple coolant additive. Don't go stupid with it.
Second off, Reservoir tanks:
1) Trunk tanks are good for track days WHEN using ice
2) Trunk tanks add more fluid.....but take longer to cool (no ice)
3) Large trunk tanks add a lot of weight. We don't need more weight. Period.
4) Engine reservoir tanks are small and absorb engine heat
5) Small reservoirs need coolant lines on the bottom so flow does not cause air pockets near cap.
6) ^^^^^^^Regardless of what you choose.....try to use larger fittings and hoses so upgrades later will be easy.
Third off, Heat exchangers:
1) You're good. Move on ( The intercooler is the problem...not the contact area for ambient temps to attempt to cool off the heated intercooler water. Why? Its called diminishing returns. There is a point when you increase boost (13+psi....ish) and the hot compressed air will not get cool enough flowing through the inefficient intercooler core that is using above ambient water. Period.)
Fourth off, Meth:
1) Just do it. Everybody else is and you're a loser if you don't
2) 75% water/ 25% meth ratio
3) @13 gph worth of nozzles is safe for a nicely modded M113K
4) Nozzle locations? Let's get to that when you are ready to install.
5) Use at LEAST a 2+gallon meth tank. You're going to use it.
6) Go simple and use a pressure switch for activation of meth/water
7) DO NOT TUNE FOR METH/WATER.
Honestly, skip the above 1-3 sections and go straight to the meth. Nobody gives a damn about your teeth when you are racing? Oh, wait....wrong meth.
Meth/Water is the ONLY FIX TO OUR M113K ISSUE WITH HIGH IAT's.
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
You need a list of vendors and logs? Try the damn search option for MBWorld. Welcome to hell, djempirE55.
Go no further and enjoy the vehicle. Why? Because a lot of us has asked the same damn question and have been told the same damn thing I'm telling you. Did we listen? No. Did we benefit from not listening? No. It's a very time consuming and expensive rabbit hole you don't want to fall into. Got it?
Are you stubborn?
Fair enough. Welcome to the club.
First off, Split the damn system. Remove coolant from the intercooler system and replace with pure distilled water. Maybe add some Redline Wetter or Royal Purple coolant additive. Don't go stupid with it.
Second off, Reservoir tanks:
1) Trunk tanks are good for track days WHEN using ice
2) Trunk tanks add more fluid.....but take longer to cool (no ice)
3) Large trunk tanks add a lot of weight. We don't need more weight. Period.
4) Engine reservoir tanks are small and absorb engine heat
5) Small reservoirs need coolant lines on the bottom so flow does not cause air pockets near cap.
6) ^^^^^^^Regardless of what you choose.....try to use larger fittings and hoses so upgrades later will be easy.
Third off, Heat exchangers:
1) You're good. Move on ( The intercooler is the problem...not the contact area for ambient temps to attempt to cool off the heated intercooler water. Why? Its called diminishing returns. There is a point when you increase boost (13+psi....ish) and the hot compressed air will not get cool enough flowing through the inefficient intercooler core that is using above ambient water. Period.)
Fourth off, Meth:
1) Just do it. Everybody else is and you're a loser if you don't
2) 75% water/ 25% meth ratio
3) @13 gph worth of nozzles is safe for a nicely modded M113K
4) Nozzle locations? Let's get to that when you are ready to install.
5) Use at LEAST a 2+gallon meth tank. You're going to use it.
6) Go simple and use a pressure switch for activation of meth/water
7) DO NOT TUNE FOR METH/WATER.
Honestly, skip the above 1-3 sections and go straight to the meth. Nobody gives a damn about your teeth when you are racing? Oh, wait....wrong meth.
Meth/Water is the ONLY FIX TO OUR M113K ISSUE WITH HIGH IAT's.
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
You need a list of vendors and logs? Try the damn search option for MBWorld. Welcome to hell, djempirE55.
Last edited by EREBUS; 04-19-2016 at 02:27 AM.
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04-19-2016, 09:43 AM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
This has been discussed and debated for over a decade, for God's sake? Once you start adding boost on the M113K......you will quickly surpass the factory's maxed out intercooler efficiency. Period. End of story. Your journey of "lower IAT's" should end where you opened your thread................
Go no further and enjoy the vehicle. Why? Because a lot of us has asked the same damn question and have been told the same damn thing I'm telling you. Did we listen? No. Did we benefit from not listening? No. It's a very time consuming and expensive rabbit hole you don't want to fall into. Got it?
Are you stubborn?
Fair enough. Welcome to the club.
First off, Split the damn system. Remove coolant from the intercooler system and replace with pure distilled water. Maybe add some Redline Wetter or Royal Purple coolant additive. Don't go stupid with it.
Second off, Reservoir tanks:
1) Trunk tanks are good for track days WHEN using ice
2) Trunk tanks add more fluid.....but take longer to cool (no ice)
3) Large trunk tanks add a lot of weight. We don't need more weight. Period.
4) Engine reservoir tanks are small and absorb engine heat
5) Small reservoirs need coolant lines on the bottom so flow does not cause air pockets near cap.
6) ^^^^^^^Regardless of what you choose.....try to use larger fittings and hoses so upgrades later will be easy.
Third off, Heat exchangers:
1) You're good. Move on ( The intercooler is the problem...not the contact area for ambient temps to attempt to cool off the heated intercooler water. Why? Its called diminishing returns. There is a point when you increase boost (13+psi....ish) and the hot compressed air will not get cool enough flowing through the inefficient intercooler core that is using above ambient water. Period.)
Fourth off, Meth:
1) Just do it. Everybody else is and you're a loser if you don't
2) 75% water/ 25% meth ratio
3) @13 gph worth of nozzles is safe for a nicely modded M113K
4) Nozzle locations? Let's get to that when you are ready to install.
5) Use at LEAST a 2+gallon meth tank. You're going to use it.
6) Go simple and use a pressure switch for activation of meth/water
7) DO NOT TUNE FOR METH/WATER.
Honestly, skip the above 1-3 sections and go straight to the meth. Nobody gives a damn about your teeth when you are racing? Oh, wait....wrong meth.
Meth/Water is the ONLY FIX TO OUR M113K ISSUE WITH HIGH IAT's.
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
You need a list of vendors and logs? Try the damn search option for MBWorld. Welcome to hell, djempirE55.
Go no further and enjoy the vehicle. Why? Because a lot of us has asked the same damn question and have been told the same damn thing I'm telling you. Did we listen? No. Did we benefit from not listening? No. It's a very time consuming and expensive rabbit hole you don't want to fall into. Got it?
Are you stubborn?
Fair enough. Welcome to the club.
First off, Split the damn system. Remove coolant from the intercooler system and replace with pure distilled water. Maybe add some Redline Wetter or Royal Purple coolant additive. Don't go stupid with it.
Second off, Reservoir tanks:
1) Trunk tanks are good for track days WHEN using ice
2) Trunk tanks add more fluid.....but take longer to cool (no ice)
3) Large trunk tanks add a lot of weight. We don't need more weight. Period.
4) Engine reservoir tanks are small and absorb engine heat
5) Small reservoirs need coolant lines on the bottom so flow does not cause air pockets near cap.
6) ^^^^^^^Regardless of what you choose.....try to use larger fittings and hoses so upgrades later will be easy.
Third off, Heat exchangers:
1) You're good. Move on ( The intercooler is the problem...not the contact area for ambient temps to attempt to cool off the heated intercooler water. Why? Its called diminishing returns. There is a point when you increase boost (13+psi....ish) and the hot compressed air will not get cool enough flowing through the inefficient intercooler core that is using above ambient water. Period.)
Fourth off, Meth:
1) Just do it. Everybody else is and you're a loser if you don't
2) 75% water/ 25% meth ratio
3) @13 gph worth of nozzles is safe for a nicely modded M113K
4) Nozzle locations? Let's get to that when you are ready to install.
5) Use at LEAST a 2+gallon meth tank. You're going to use it.
6) Go simple and use a pressure switch for activation of meth/water
7) DO NOT TUNE FOR METH/WATER.
Honestly, skip the above 1-3 sections and go straight to the meth. Nobody gives a damn about your teeth when you are racing? Oh, wait....wrong meth.
Meth/Water is the ONLY FIX TO OUR M113K ISSUE WITH HIGH IAT's.
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
You need a list of vendors and logs? Try the damn search option for MBWorld. Welcome to hell, djempirE55.
I understand the cooling factor is a big pain in the a$$ since there is little return on the investment. I'm a big fan of meth and totally agree going that route. I used a more aggressive (75-100% meth) on my e92 with good results. Any reason going with a lower meth/H2O ratio with the 55?
04-19-2016, 01:12 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
He laid it all out, lol
Again searching you will find that too much meth and it gets very rich and since no tuner will take out fuel for meth, you will lose power.
There's no tuning for meth, no tuner will do it.
Again you can test out very small nozzles and use more meth etc
Usually more water and less meth works very well for cooling, just make sure your timing is still good and you are not extinguishing the spark with too much water
Again searching you will find that too much meth and it gets very rich and since no tuner will take out fuel for meth, you will lose power.
There's no tuning for meth, no tuner will do it.
Again you can test out very small nozzles and use more meth etc
Usually more water and less meth works very well for cooling, just make sure your timing is still good and you are not extinguishing the spark with too much water
04-19-2016, 01:51 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Orbiting the planet
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This place is a joke.
Too much meth % will show no cooling gains. My testing, which jives with other's findings, is somewhere around 75-80% water works best on our cars. 50/50 showed almost zero cooling ability.
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04-28-2016, 11:58 AM
#8
Super Member
This post right here is the most informative single post I have ever seen for 55k!!!!
Very well put.
This has been discussed and debated for over a decade, for God's sake? Once you start adding boost on the M113K......you will quickly surpass the factory's maxed out intercooler efficiency. Period. End of story. Your journey of "lower IAT's" should end where you opened your thread................
Go no further and enjoy the vehicle. Why? Because a lot of us has asked the same damn question and have been told the same damn thing I'm telling you. Did we listen? No. Did we benefit from not listening? No. It's a very time consuming and expensive rabbit hole you don't want to fall into. Got it?
Are you stubborn?
Fair enough. Welcome to the club.
First off, Split the damn system. Remove coolant from the intercooler system and replace with pure distilled water. Maybe add some Redline Wetter or Royal Purple coolant additive. Don't go stupid with it.
Second off, Reservoir tanks:
1) Trunk tanks are good for track days WHEN using ice
2) Trunk tanks add more fluid.....but take longer to cool (no ice)
3) Large trunk tanks add a lot of weight. We don't need more weight. Period.
4) Engine reservoir tanks are small and absorb engine heat
5) Small reservoirs need coolant lines on the bottom so flow does not cause air pockets near cap.
6) ^^^^^^^Regardless of what you choose.....try to use larger fittings and hoses so upgrades later will be easy.
Third off, Heat exchangers:
1) You're good. Move on ( The intercooler is the problem...not the contact area for ambient temps to attempt to cool off the heated intercooler water. Why? Its called diminishing returns. There is a point when you increase boost (13+psi....ish) and the hot compressed air will not get cool enough flowing through the inefficient intercooler core that is using above ambient water. Period.)
Fourth off, Meth:
1) Just do it. Everybody else is and you're a loser if you don't
2) 75% water/ 25% meth ratio
3) @13 gph worth of nozzles is safe for a nicely modded M113K
4) Nozzle locations? Let's get to that when you are ready to install.
5) Use at LEAST a 2+gallon meth tank. You're going to use it.
6) Go simple and use a pressure switch for activation of meth/water
7) DO NOT TUNE FOR METH/WATER.
Honestly, skip the above 1-3 sections and go straight to the meth. Nobody gives a damn about your teeth when you are racing? Oh, wait....wrong meth.
Meth/Water is the ONLY FIX TO OUR M113K ISSUE WITH HIGH IAT's.
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
You need a list of vendors and logs? Try the damn search option for MBWorld. Welcome to hell, djempirE55.
Go no further and enjoy the vehicle. Why? Because a lot of us has asked the same damn question and have been told the same damn thing I'm telling you. Did we listen? No. Did we benefit from not listening? No. It's a very time consuming and expensive rabbit hole you don't want to fall into. Got it?
Are you stubborn?
Fair enough. Welcome to the club.
First off, Split the damn system. Remove coolant from the intercooler system and replace with pure distilled water. Maybe add some Redline Wetter or Royal Purple coolant additive. Don't go stupid with it.
Second off, Reservoir tanks:
1) Trunk tanks are good for track days WHEN using ice
2) Trunk tanks add more fluid.....but take longer to cool (no ice)
3) Large trunk tanks add a lot of weight. We don't need more weight. Period.
4) Engine reservoir tanks are small and absorb engine heat
5) Small reservoirs need coolant lines on the bottom so flow does not cause air pockets near cap.
6) ^^^^^^^Regardless of what you choose.....try to use larger fittings and hoses so upgrades later will be easy.
Third off, Heat exchangers:
1) You're good. Move on ( The intercooler is the problem...not the contact area for ambient temps to attempt to cool off the heated intercooler water. Why? Its called diminishing returns. There is a point when you increase boost (13+psi....ish) and the hot compressed air will not get cool enough flowing through the inefficient intercooler core that is using above ambient water. Period.)
Fourth off, Meth:
1) Just do it. Everybody else is and you're a loser if you don't
2) 75% water/ 25% meth ratio
3) @13 gph worth of nozzles is safe for a nicely modded M113K
4) Nozzle locations? Let's get to that when you are ready to install.
5) Use at LEAST a 2+gallon meth tank. You're going to use it.
6) Go simple and use a pressure switch for activation of meth/water
7) DO NOT TUNE FOR METH/WATER.
Honestly, skip the above 1-3 sections and go straight to the meth. Nobody gives a damn about your teeth when you are racing? Oh, wait....wrong meth.
Meth/Water is the ONLY FIX TO OUR M113K ISSUE WITH HIGH IAT's.
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
You need a list of vendors and logs? Try the damn search option for MBWorld. Welcome to hell, djempirE55.
The following users liked this post:
EREBUS (05-01-2016)
04-30-2016, 11:03 PM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
This has been discussed and debated for over a decade, for God's sake? Once you start adding boost on the M113K......you will quickly surpass the factory's maxed out intercooler efficiency. Period. End of story. Your journey of "lower IAT's" should end where you opened your thread................
Go no further and enjoy the vehicle. Why? Because a lot of us has asked the same damn question and have been told the same damn thing I'm telling you. Did we listen? No. Did we benefit from not listening? No. It's a very time consuming and expensive rabbit hole you don't want to fall into. Got it?
Are you stubborn?
Fair enough. Welcome to the club.
First off, Split the damn system. Remove coolant from the intercooler system and replace with pure distilled water. Maybe add some Redline Wetter or Royal Purple coolant additive. Don't go stupid with it.
Second off, Reservoir tanks:
1) Trunk tanks are good for track days WHEN using ice
2) Trunk tanks add more fluid.....but take longer to cool (no ice)
3) Large trunk tanks add a lot of weight. We don't need more weight. Period.
4) Engine reservoir tanks are small and absorb engine heat
5) Small reservoirs need coolant lines on the bottom so flow does not cause air pockets near cap.
6) ^^^^^^^Regardless of what you choose.....try to use larger fittings and hoses so upgrades later will be easy.
Third off, Heat exchangers:
1) You're good. Move on ( The intercooler is the problem...not the contact area for ambient temps to attempt to cool off the heated intercooler water. Why? Its called diminishing returns. There is a point when you increase boost (13+psi....ish) and the hot compressed air will not get cool enough flowing through the inefficient intercooler core that is using above ambient water. Period.)
Fourth off, Meth:
1) Just do it. Everybody else is and you're a loser if you don't
2) 75% water/ 25% meth ratio
3) @13 gph worth of nozzles is safe for a nicely modded M113K
4) Nozzle locations? Let's get to that when you are ready to install.
5) Use at LEAST a 2+gallon meth tank. You're going to use it.
6) Go simple and use a pressure switch for activation of meth/water
7) DO NOT TUNE FOR METH/WATER.
Honestly, skip the above 1-3 sections and go straight to the meth. Nobody gives a damn about your teeth when you are racing? Oh, wait....wrong meth.
Meth/Water is the ONLY FIX TO OUR M113K ISSUE WITH HIGH IAT's.
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
You need a list of vendors and logs? Try the damn search option for MBWorld. Welcome to hell, djempirE55.
Go no further and enjoy the vehicle. Why? Because a lot of us has asked the same damn question and have been told the same damn thing I'm telling you. Did we listen? No. Did we benefit from not listening? No. It's a very time consuming and expensive rabbit hole you don't want to fall into. Got it?
Are you stubborn?
Fair enough. Welcome to the club.
First off, Split the damn system. Remove coolant from the intercooler system and replace with pure distilled water. Maybe add some Redline Wetter or Royal Purple coolant additive. Don't go stupid with it.
Second off, Reservoir tanks:
1) Trunk tanks are good for track days WHEN using ice
2) Trunk tanks add more fluid.....but take longer to cool (no ice)
3) Large trunk tanks add a lot of weight. We don't need more weight. Period.
4) Engine reservoir tanks are small and absorb engine heat
5) Small reservoirs need coolant lines on the bottom so flow does not cause air pockets near cap.
6) ^^^^^^^Regardless of what you choose.....try to use larger fittings and hoses so upgrades later will be easy.
Third off, Heat exchangers:
1) You're good. Move on ( The intercooler is the problem...not the contact area for ambient temps to attempt to cool off the heated intercooler water. Why? Its called diminishing returns. There is a point when you increase boost (13+psi....ish) and the hot compressed air will not get cool enough flowing through the inefficient intercooler core that is using above ambient water. Period.)
Fourth off, Meth:
1) Just do it. Everybody else is and you're a loser if you don't
2) 75% water/ 25% meth ratio
3) @13 gph worth of nozzles is safe for a nicely modded M113K
4) Nozzle locations? Let's get to that when you are ready to install.
5) Use at LEAST a 2+gallon meth tank. You're going to use it.
6) Go simple and use a pressure switch for activation of meth/water
7) DO NOT TUNE FOR METH/WATER.
Honestly, skip the above 1-3 sections and go straight to the meth. Nobody gives a damn about your teeth when you are racing? Oh, wait....wrong meth.
Meth/Water is the ONLY FIX TO OUR M113K ISSUE WITH HIGH IAT's.
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
You need a list of vendors and logs? Try the damn search option for MBWorld. Welcome to hell, djempirE55.
The following users liked this post:
EREBUS (05-01-2016)
05-01-2016, 01:10 PM
#11
It seems every attempt at deleting the old charge air cooler and making upgraded options have all failed.
I guess meth is the best bang for the buck. Where the hell would i find space for a 2-3 gallon tank?
Ready to talk nozzle(S) location
I guess meth is the best bang for the buck. Where the hell would i find space for a 2-3 gallon tank?
Ready to talk nozzle(S) location
Last edited by 95ONE; 05-01-2016 at 06:29 PM.
05-01-2016, 04:12 PM
#12
Super Member
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
Anyone know the amount of HP that is lost to each degree of timing that is pulled?
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
Anyone know the amount of HP that is lost to each degree of timing that is pulled?
The following users liked this post:
Max.H (05-02-2016)
05-01-2016, 06:21 PM
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Germany
Posts: 698
Received 16 Likes
on
13 Posts
C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
Anyone know the amount of HP that is lost to each degree of timing that is pulled?
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
Anyone know the amount of HP that is lost to each degree of timing that is pulled?
I wonder if ECU tunes could at least remove the 3° timing pull when used with 93octane pump gas? And maybe alter the 6° to 3-4°? I think it should work without knock with higher octane gas and maybe one step colder plugs...
Whats your take on that?
05-01-2016, 07:17 PM
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,943
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2012 Volt - 2005 E55 - 2011 G55 - 2013 GL63
For my meth setup i used the windshield washer resv. Holds about 1.5g if I recall well. Hidden and out of the way. Notice on dash once gets low.
05-02-2016, 03:02 AM
#15
Super Member
The flip side? M113Ks are special. Even if its stock......it's capable of embarrassing a sh*t ton of cars that claim to be "monsters". That and that alone makes it worth the investment to embarrass unsuspected victims. Then again, I'm a d*ck like that. I enjoy destroying dudes driving their mid life crisis flings.
Your guess is correct. I guess?
Uh, trunk? You know, where the full size spare is located. Oh, wait. lol
You can, hypothetically, have enough room for an 5 gallon intercooler ice tank and 2 1/2 gallon meth/water tank. Using your windshield wiper fluid reservoir is another option. That alone is over a gallon? Really? Are you going to listen to what I'm about to say? If so, hold on......I'm about to call out years of bullsh*t advice. Yeah, I'm a rebel like that.
Let's do this........
Every nozzle location we have been using is wrong....ish. Why? Because we all have tricked the ECU to believe you have actually dropped the IATs. Spraying the IAT sensor with meth/water is not how you are suppose to do it. Shocker? Please. You're tricking the system and forcing high IAT air to your combustion. Solution?
1) Leave your IAT sensor in its factory location
2) Purchase a second IAT sensor and install it either in the left or right surge tank (do I need to tell you to connect new IAT sensor to wire/harness and leave factory location sensor unplugged? Please do )
3) Step up the GPH nozzles to your proper needs. (16 psi on 5.4L @ 6800 rpms is 18+ gph)
4) Place twin (at least) 6 gph nozzles at intercooler y split....one per side.
5) Install check valves for your meth/water system. No? Enjoy your hydro locked engine, then.
(There is, of course, spraying 3-5 gph before supercharger option that helps increase boost and somewhat attempt to drop a few degrees of IATs. Not worth arguing about, but proven. Your call.......not mine.)
Still scratching your head? Let me help you understand. Everybody is spraying 3-4 inches before the IAT sensor because that is our only readily available location option. How about you move the sensor to a place that allows a TRUE reading of IATs after meth/water?
Oh wait, you have a killer chiller? Chilling an intercooler is pure genius until the boost created heat surpasses factory intercooler efficiency and the hot air blows past the struggling core. There is, of course, A/C shutting off during WOT that one has to deal with using a chiller killer. My bad, that's when you inject meth/water? 3-4 inches before the IAT sensor, right?
Last edited by EREBUS; 05-02-2016 at 10:21 AM. Reason: after re-reading my post....it seemed a little harsh. lol
05-02-2016, 10:51 AM
#16
Super Member
I like the idea of the second IAT sensor
I ask because the stock one is held in by the plastic clips so curious to see what bung/fitting works best with the stock temp sensor.
05-02-2016, 09:25 PM
#17
I guess this is the best option. Specifically liking the the notice in the dash. I will not run anything to my trunk. lots of reasons.
05-02-2016, 09:37 PM
#18
That was all very helpfull advice. Thank you. no scratching my head here. I get it. I will take every bit of it into consideration. The parts about what mixture may or may not work was most helpful.
I very much appreciate the time you took to answer. Thanks again.
05-02-2016, 11:07 PM
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
Food for thought:
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
Anyone know the amount of HP that is lost to each degree of timing that is pulled?
95 degree IAT's pulls 3 degrees of timing
115 degree IAT's pulls 6 degrees of timing
145 degree IAT's pulls 9 degrees of timing
180 degree IAT's pulls 12 degrees of timing (I believe?)
Over 220 degree IAT's shuts off supercharger (I believe?)
Anyone know the amount of HP that is lost to each degree of timing that is pulled?
05-03-2016, 11:19 AM
#21
Super Member
An after market sensor would be a MUCH better option so you could avoid using a fabricator!
We've been limited to how much meth/water we can spray due to the IAT sensor (and MAP sensor) so close to the intercooler. Meth/water can drop IATs lower than any intercooler set-up can even attempt. Moving the IAT sensor allows us to do what other platforms have been doing all along with meth/water.
05-03-2016, 12:54 PM
#22
Super Member
What IAT's do you see in the 1/2 mile and longer with outside temps 85+ degrees? I'm curious? I would have 57 degree IAT's at staging (using ice) and would blow past 130 degrees with 12 gph meth/water nozzles before I get the 1/2 mile mark with track temps @85. (15-16psi)
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Max.H (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 01:25 PM
#24
Super Member
05-03-2016, 04:45 PM
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
