why is my car so sloppy on the highway sways like a boat ...
#26
Super Member
Thread Starter
unfortunately comfort , s1 or s2 doesnt do anything in regards to the body roll. just makes for a stiffer ride.
i have also been pondering the idea of when it lowers it self above 75+mph.
but how does one find this out lol
i have also been pondering the idea of when it lowers it self above 75+mph.
but how does one find this out lol
#27
Super Member
Just throwing out some ideas. You replaced rear shocks but not the air springs right? There is a single sensor for the rear air springs, yet I have read that uneven ride height can occur in the rear. So at 80+ you are in a lowered position, you accelerate and the rear end squats, the sensor calls for an increased height adjustment, but because of some malfunction one side pumps up faster (or only); and then I believe that the front sensors come into play for roll adjustment, and perhaps some sort of closed loop harmonic is initiated. One set of signals fighting the others. You could try to raise your car using the air springs and do you get an equal measurable increase in height at all four corners? I also imagine that if only one rear spring was effectively lifting, that the unequal weight on the tire patches could create very erratic handling. Hope this stimulates some discussion and helps out.
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
here is a PDF that shows how the R230 handles lowering at speed vs starting height setting. I don't know how the CLS compares (If I had time, I'd look for its similar document), but you can see why it might reveal something about your problem if you tried to duplicate the bad behavior in each different setting you have and note any differences.
Chris
#30
MBWorld Fanatic!
Just throwing out some ideas. You replaced rear shocks but not the air springs right? There is a single sensor for the rear air springs, yet I have read that uneven ride height can occur in the rear. So at 80+ you are in a lowered position, you accelerate and the rear end squats, the sensor calls for an increased height adjustment, but because of some malfunction one side pumps up faster (or only); and then I believe that the front sensors come into play for roll adjustment, and perhaps some sort of closed loop harmonic is initiated. One set of signals fighting the others. You could try to raise your car using the air springs and do you get an equal measurable increase in height at all four corners? I also imagine that if only one rear spring was effectively lifting, that the unequal weight on the tire patches could create very erratic handling. Hope this stimulates some discussion and helps out.
Chris
Last edited by latemodel21; 06-01-2016 at 02:15 PM.
#31
Super Member
Thread Starter
aligned in comfort. mostly been driving in comfort as well.
this is how the car sits. i swear this thing lowers itself a half inch after i park.
ive also been contemplating reverting back to stock ride height to see if that helps, but have no idea what the stock values are for inclination, nor how to revert back to where stock ride height was lol.
also last time i checked the airmatics via star there were 0 faults in the system.
one thing that might be worth mentioning is that everytime i go to mess with lowering via star the level signals voltages are way below or over what i set the height to.
they are supposed to be
LF1.8v-2.8v
RF 2.2v-3.2v
rear 2.2v-3.0v
i have the cars height where i want it, and within the voltages. set the inclinations all is well. no errors or messages but now if i go back into to star and mess with airmatics again the car is no longer within the values
LF1.8v-2.8v
RF 2.2v-3.2v
rear 2.2v-3.0v
could this be my issue?
this is how the car sits. i swear this thing lowers itself a half inch after i park.
ive also been contemplating reverting back to stock ride height to see if that helps, but have no idea what the stock values are for inclination, nor how to revert back to where stock ride height was lol.
also last time i checked the airmatics via star there were 0 faults in the system.
one thing that might be worth mentioning is that everytime i go to mess with lowering via star the level signals voltages are way below or over what i set the height to.
they are supposed to be
LF1.8v-2.8v
RF 2.2v-3.2v
rear 2.2v-3.0v
i have the cars height where i want it, and within the voltages. set the inclinations all is well. no errors or messages but now if i go back into to star and mess with airmatics again the car is no longer within the values
LF1.8v-2.8v
RF 2.2v-3.2v
rear 2.2v-3.0v
could this be my issue?
Last edited by 06cls55amg; 06-01-2016 at 02:55 PM.
#32
Senior Member
Could it be a bad suspension pump valve? The proportion valve may not be as responsive at slower speeds and may act up as the changes required are more rapid and loaded more heavily. Could that blown strut/air bag cause damage here? Just suggestions...
I had similar issues (with ABC) and accelerator sensors were replaced.
Sounds like some type of sensor and not a suspension part.
I would have it checked with STAR system.
I had similar issues (with ABC) and accelerator sensors were replaced.
Sounds like some type of sensor and not a suspension part.
I would have it checked with STAR system.
The following users liked this post:
Sam Bunz (03-02-2021)
#33
Super Member
Thread Starter
edited my last post, i am charging my laptop, going to double check the system with star again.
nor cal your proportion valve theory might be onto something. ...\
by the way i greatly appreciate yours guys help, im firm believer of DIY, and havent had to rely on anyone to work on my toys other than myself would LOVE to figure this crap out lol.
nor cal your proportion valve theory might be onto something. ...\
by the way i greatly appreciate yours guys help, im firm believer of DIY, and havent had to rely on anyone to work on my toys other than myself would LOVE to figure this crap out lol.
Last edited by 06cls55amg; 06-01-2016 at 03:39 PM.
#34
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2007 Mercedes E63 AMG
my E63 sways quite a bit at comfort height. in Sport 2 its fairly planted.
i have my car aligned in sport 2...when i drive the car in comfort it is hard to explain but it seems as though but bushings may be extra worn causing alignment to change upon deflection...so the car "does" sway back and forth while going straight...but only in comfort mode.
oddly though...when i have a passenger, and do ride in comfort mode, the car doesn't sway side to side.
the swaying occurs when i'm in comfort and going straight.
i have my car aligned in sport 2...when i drive the car in comfort it is hard to explain but it seems as though but bushings may be extra worn causing alignment to change upon deflection...so the car "does" sway back and forth while going straight...but only in comfort mode.
oddly though...when i have a passenger, and do ride in comfort mode, the car doesn't sway side to side.
the swaying occurs when i'm in comfort and going straight.
#35
Senior Member
To the OP - FYI - I recently had this issue almost as you describe it
For me, when accelerating hard the rear end feels like it is swaying left to right, almost as if it is wheel spinning and floating over the road, almost feels like the chassis in the back is disconnected from the wheels
In my case it was a collapsed rear shock, not the bag, the shock itself.
I replaced the dodgy shock and now when accelerating it is firm and straight and no more side to side swaying feeling, when I removed the shock it pulled straight down and there was no rebound, it was 2/3rds the height of the new shock
*edit - see you already have replaced the rear shocks
** On a side note also check the condition of your sub frame mounts and sub frame bolts
For me, when accelerating hard the rear end feels like it is swaying left to right, almost as if it is wheel spinning and floating over the road, almost feels like the chassis in the back is disconnected from the wheels
In my case it was a collapsed rear shock, not the bag, the shock itself.
I replaced the dodgy shock and now when accelerating it is firm and straight and no more side to side swaying feeling, when I removed the shock it pulled straight down and there was no rebound, it was 2/3rds the height of the new shock
*edit - see you already have replaced the rear shocks
** On a side note also check the condition of your sub frame mounts and sub frame bolts
Last edited by menace2sobriety; 06-01-2016 at 08:36 PM.
#36
Super Member
Thread Starter
im attaching a short video of what the car does, started to run out of real estate in mexico but you get the idea, at partial throttle around 90 its ok at WOT the cars body starts to roll side to side the faster i go the more it moves. wheels/tires stay planted and steering is not affected. ill try to do a better video later and make sure im recording this time.
http://vid305.photobucket.com/albums..._090900727.mp4
also raised the car an additional inch yesterday, and this time my voltage values were the same as what i set them in april. 0 faults were found in the airmatics, tested everything individually via star as well.
only things i found weird was the vehicle level
LF vehicle level was 2mm
RF vehicle level was -3mm
rear vehicle level was 2mm
first pic of actuation levels is what i had set in april. i dont get why the left wheel is at closer to high side of the voltage,
and the left side is at the minimum.
http://vid305.photobucket.com/albums..._090900727.mp4
also raised the car an additional inch yesterday, and this time my voltage values were the same as what i set them in april. 0 faults were found in the airmatics, tested everything individually via star as well.
only things i found weird was the vehicle level
LF vehicle level was 2mm
RF vehicle level was -3mm
rear vehicle level was 2mm
first pic of actuation levels is what i had set in april. i dont get why the left wheel is at closer to high side of the voltage,
and the left side is at the minimum.
Last edited by 06cls55amg; 06-02-2016 at 10:48 AM.
#38
Super Member
Wow....has to be air springs (not that I'm an expert or anything really) what else could induce such perfect roll? Engine torque? Also looks like what sawing the steering wheel left and right would do, do you get a seat of the pants sensation like the car is actually going left and right like ossilatting?
#39
Super Member
Do you know the condition of your engine and transmission mounts?
Reread and see they are new....
Reread and see they are new....
Last edited by Dublinoh; 06-02-2016 at 12:12 PM. Reason: Correction
#40
Super Member
Thread Starter
the tires are planted to the ground, the steering wheel doesnt move, but the whole body of the car just rolls side to side but only under WOT. i got 2 rear low mileage airbags sitting here, seriously contemplating throwing them in, just to rule them out... why not already replaced half of the car. .....
#41
Super Member
There is more to the rear than just the air bags, there are some valves I think, and a reservoir, but it wouldn't hurt. A common problem is a leak where the larger hose attaches to the air bags. Corrosion on the nipple of the bag where the hose attaches. Hope it helps
Did this issue start at the same time as the "pot hole then vibration" issue?
Did this issue start at the same time as the "pot hole then vibration" issue?
Last edited by Dublinoh; 06-02-2016 at 03:48 PM. Reason: Question
#43
Michellin pilot super sport rears 295 30 20, Nankang ns20, 255/35/20 -a match made in heaven. PSS are known to have a softer side wall and tend to sway a little usually under hard acceleration but nothing like you have shown in the video and Nankangs, I would not trust them at 60mph.... I would recommend an alignment at a Mercedes dealership and change out the front tires to match the rears and go from there.
#44
MBWorld Fanatic!
My air bags are done. I think yours are too from The video. It's a combination of the bags being a bit loose and the pump not catching up properly. In my opinion.
im attaching a short video of what the car does, started to run out of real estate in mexico but you get the idea, at partial throttle around 90 its ok at WOT the cars body starts to roll side to side the faster i go the more it moves. wheels/tires stay planted and steering is not affected. ill try to do a better video later and make sure im recording this time.
http://vid305.photobucket.com/albums..._090900727.mp4
also raised the car an additional inch yesterday, and this time my voltage values were the same as what i set them in april. 0 faults were found in the airmatics, tested everything individually via star as well.
only things i found weird was the vehicle level
LF vehicle level was 2mm
RF vehicle level was -3mm
rear vehicle level was 2mm
first pic of actuation levels is what i had set in april. i dont get why the left wheel is at closer to high side of the voltage,
and the left side is at the minimum.
http://vid305.photobucket.com/albums..._090900727.mp4
also raised the car an additional inch yesterday, and this time my voltage values were the same as what i set them in april. 0 faults were found in the airmatics, tested everything individually via star as well.
only things i found weird was the vehicle level
LF vehicle level was 2mm
RF vehicle level was -3mm
rear vehicle level was 2mm
first pic of actuation levels is what i had set in april. i dont get why the left wheel is at closer to high side of the voltage,
and the left side is at the minimum.
#45
MBWorld Fanatic!
After seeing the video, wow, I don't think air bags could change fast enough to cause that. The rear wheels toe in quickly as the height lowers, and toe out as it comes up, so a bad shock might send it into a vicious cycle. I would also look closely at the rubber in the toe links, If you haven't already.
#46
Super Member
Thread Starter
im on my second set of rear shocks already, all of my originals look good and are very difficult to compress. 3 drivers struts, 2 passenger, 2nd set of rear shocks. 0 change after each replacement, i guess im going to throw in rear bags i have, as well as the control arms that i received as they have much less mileage, and will help me rule out the rear bags. then have the dealer do an alignment i guess.
i have a set of upd rear camber arm toe links, but after all the up and down reviews recently been hesitant to add another potential problem to the current list.......
as for the tires i put my stockers on and had the same issue those are continentals.
air compressor test completed the 14psi test in 12 seconds via star.
i have a set of upd rear camber arm toe links, but after all the up and down reviews recently been hesitant to add another potential problem to the current list.......
as for the tires i put my stockers on and had the same issue those are continentals.
air compressor test completed the 14psi test in 12 seconds via star.
#47
Super Member
please keep updates as I'm trying to figure my issue out as well.
Also when or if you install the UDP stuff please post an honest review.
I hate it when people don't post their real experiences they sugar coat things to keep vendors happy.
Also when or if you install the UDP stuff please post an honest review.
I hate it when people don't post their real experiences they sugar coat things to keep vendors happy.
#48
Same issue
Guys, mine is acting exactly the same. Dealer is pretty certain it is rear control arm bushings, the outer ones. I checked and they seem ok, but there is no real way to check them. It makes sense that under acceleration they flex more than they should, throw out rear toe and cause rear tires to fight one another, which is exactly what it feels like. I ordered new bushings and will replace just that to start with. Please post if solution has been found, pretty old thread.
#49
MBWorld Fanatic!
alright so ive replaced both front airmatic struts with known good ones, and both rear shocks. EVERY front end suspension wear item is new as well then had alignment done as well as front tires dismounted, rotated and balanced . thru some wurth hhs on sway bar bushings as well, and new engine mounts.
The problem with my car is that on the highway especially after 80mph and under hard acceleration the cars body starts to sway left to right..... the faster i go the more violent it gets.
im officially out of ideas other than possibly bad sway bar bushings? car is lowered an inch via star ( shows no faults for airmatics either). seems to be getting worse instead of better even after all these new parts.
The problem with my car is that on the highway especially after 80mph and under hard acceleration the cars body starts to sway left to right..... the faster i go the more violent it gets.
im officially out of ideas other than possibly bad sway bar bushings? car is lowered an inch via star ( shows no faults for airmatics either). seems to be getting worse instead of better even after all these new parts.
Worn bushings can allow the rear subframe to move around under acceleration, braking and cornering, giving that floating feeling. Also mine caused uneven rear tire wear. Have yours checked.