W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Intake Dyno Comparisons.

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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 09:40 AM
  #76  
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CLK56TT (WIP), S65, RR 5.0 S/C
Originally Posted by StarvingArtist
It's great seeing these killer setups again! Feels like times past. Alex, is that duel TB's I'm looking at? I've heard it suggested before, but didn't know anyone had actually pulled it off!
Thanks, yes two independently driven TBs.

Originally Posted by oneslow55
Alex on a weistec you really need a bypass ,that’s your safety feature
Can you elaborate?
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 10:23 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Alex L
Thanks, yes two independently driven TBs.



Can you elaborate?

If it's not opening when under vacuum, the Whipple will be in 'boost' mode all the time and can overheat the Whipple. . Over heated superchargers tend to lock up eventually.
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Old Mar 13, 2018 | 11:09 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by oneslow55
If it's not opening when under vacuum, the Whipple will be in 'boost' mode all the time and can overheat the Whipple. . Over heated superchargers tend to lock up eventually.
Interesting. I must admit I've not heard of superchargers overheating due to being constantly driven. Isn't Weistec unit clutchless already? And what about all those superchargers that don't have a bypass?

On the back of this, what would be the lock up down to - oil evaporating, bearings seizing up? Definitely interested in the nature of this if you know more.
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 10:45 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by oneslow55
If it's not opening when under vacuum, the Whipple will be in 'boost' mode all the time and can overheat the Whipple. . Over heated superchargers tend to lock up eventually.
Just came across this:

http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum.../126226?page=1

Post #2. Are you the same person on both forums or did you copy paste someone else’s post? Neither is the issue, I was just after an informed discussion on the subject.
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 01:47 AM
  #80  
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That guy is full of **** in most of his posts. He should've copied the intelligent post on the second page:
For anyone that wants to know the purpose of the bypass valve then here is the info that Whipple gave me.






Its to equalize pressure above and below the supercharger. Superchargers have a pressure differential when the throttle blades are closed, since the SC is "sucking" air when the blades are closed and the motor is also "sucking" air. This equalization does help some idles, as most are lean conditions and when they surge and vacuum gets less (motor almost stalls), the AF gets richer and motor runs, vacuum increases as idle surge goes up, motor gets lean. This is a revolving circle. A bypass would help reduce this, but you still have to jet and adjust properly to make it work, its not a cure.

Also, bypass lowers air charge temps at idle because there is less "vacuum" above the sc between sc and carbs/tb's as well as the fact that air is actually being diverted through the bypass to the motor instead of the SC, which means it does get beat or compressed during that stage. This reduces temp at idle, which also helps idle because you have a more consistent temp at idle and therefore the AF doesn't change as much.

So the bypass reduces parasitic losses during vacuum operation and lowers overall temps in vacuum conditions. It does not make more power, only helps during vacuum to boost transition, as the cooler air has less chance to detonate during transient conditions.
You should just reach out to Whipple. I imagine if they think it would damage the SC they would have told that guy above, but they didn't mention any danger or potential damage. But it's probably worth seeing what they say for yourself.
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 02:14 AM
  #81  
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E55 amg
Originally Posted by Alex L


Just came across this:

http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum.../126226?page=1

Post #2. Are you the same person on both forums or did you copy paste someone else’s post? Neither is the issue, I was just after an informed discussion on the subject.

Yes Alex not a copy that other guy who trolls on me is a little fagot and wishes
he can be on my level of Knowledge.If you want pm and I’ll explain more to you about the valve and reson it’s needed and why this happens about premature wear ...to the other guy your so lost on what you say it’s a joke like you .lol. .p .s I must have bought 4 whipples from Dustin and his company I think I would know why to run a valve and not get rid of it .Alex let Mel know if you need help on your setup as I had 2 setups like yours before .Cheers
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 05:14 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by oneslow55



Yes Alex not a copy that other guy who trolls on me is a little fagot and wishes
he can be on my level of Knowledge.If you want pm and I’ll explain more to you about the valve and reson it’s needed and why this happens about premature wear ...to the other guy your so lost on what you say it’s a joke like you .lol. .p .s I must have bought 4 whipples from Dustin and his company I think I would know why to run a valve and not get rid of it .Alex let Mel know if you need help on your setup as I had 2 setups like yours before .Cheers
As with most of your incoherent BS it's tough to tell what you are talking about, but are you saying the guy on the lightning forum copied your post?
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 05:45 AM
  #83  
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The supercharger is sucking all the time against the throttle bodies at idle and part throttle. this causes a little resistance and creates some heat aka parasitic loss. When adding a bypass valve the parastic loss is eliminated. In general it helps to reduce some fuel consumption on mass production cars. I guess fuel reduction on a 5.6 whipple E55 is NOT your main concern? :-).

But anyway I would mount a bypass valve for two reasons. 1. When using a trunk tank: because the supercharger is heating the water all the time in the tank on part throttle/idle without a bypass valve.

2. boost pressure >15 psi+: if the throttle bodies shut fast on boost there will be some sort of heavy shock load to the belt and aggregates including the supercharger without a bypass valve, because the mechanically driven supercharger doesn`t stop - it still runs and moves air.

Adding a bypass valve is a very easy modification. The valve is vacuum activated. So if you don`t like to use it, you can plug the vaccum line. There is nothing to loose.

I have a universal Magnuson bypass valve left including aluminium flanges. Magnuson do not sell them anymore. It was used it on my old supercharged VW bug. If interested PM.

BTW off topic. My supercharged VW bug, throtlle/boost response with a bypass valve.. :-)


Steven

Berlin Germany

Last edited by No2fast; Mar 30, 2018 at 05:57 AM.
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 07:38 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by oneslow55
I must have bought 4 whipples from Dustin and his company I think I would know why to run a valve and not get rid of it .Alex let Mel know if you need help on your setup as I had 2 setups like yours before .Cheers
Thanks for the input oneslow55. I understand that there will be a trade off in not having the bypass as well as in having one. Heat, wear in the first instance, lack of extra boost in the second. I went further with my modifications of the Weistec kit than meets the eye. I use a different intercooler core with a different flow pattern as well as the position of the supercharger against the core is different to that of Weistec as well. So far I haven't experienced any issues with intake temperatures or supercharger overheating but I will keep an eye on these things and act accordingly.

Originally Posted by drothgeb

You should just reach out to Whipple. I imagine if they think it would damage the SC they would have told that guy above, but they didn't mention any danger or potential damage. But it's probably worth seeing what they say for yourself.
I've seen Dustin's post in another forum, thanks. Basically he talks about the differential pressure compensation to 1) stabilise the idle, 2) improve fuel consumption and 3) keep IATs lower. There's nothing in his reply that would indicate overheating or lock up as a concern. Personally I can conclude that so long you can sort your idle (pretty doable with standalone ECU), can live with having less miles to the gallon at cruising speeds and can keep the IATs low having the bypass is not a requirement. It sounds like it certainly helps with a few things but it's not a must.

Originally Posted by No2fast
The supercharger is sucking all the time against the throttle bodies at idle and part throttle. this causes a little resistance and creates some heat aka parasitic loss. When adding a bypass valve the parastic loss is eliminated. In general it helps to reduce some fuel consumption on mass production cars. I guess fuel reduction on a 5.6 whipple E55 is NOT your main concern? :-).

But anyway I would mount a bypass valve for two reasons. 1. When using a trunk tank: because the supercharger is heating the water all the time in the tank on part throttle/idle without a bypass valve.

2. boost pressure >15 psi+: if the throttle bodies shut fast on boost there will be some sort of heavy shock load to the belt and aggregates including the supercharger without a bypass valve, because the mechanically driven supercharger doesn`t stop - it still runs and moves air.

Adding a bypass valve is a very easy modification. The valve is vacuum activated. So if you don`t like to use it, you can plug the vaccum line. There is nothing to loose.

I have a universal Magnuson bypass valve left including aluminium flanges. Magnuson do not sell them anymore. It was used it on my old supercharged VW bug. If interested PM.

BTW off topic. My supercharged VW bug, throtlle/boost response with a bypass valve.. :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCsFhCWGFpo

Steven

Berlin Germany
Steven, thanks for the input. Very interesting to see such an unusual project. Well done!

Now onto the bypass re-integration. Unless I missed something from your post but since you need to re-route the post TB intake air before it reaches the supercharger, will this not require a complete new air inlet that will have the provision for the bypass valve?

EDIT: Just to word it a little better. With the Magnuson unit, where does the bypass flap reside?

Last edited by Alex L; Mar 30, 2018 at 07:49 AM.
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 08:59 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by drothgeb
As with most of your incoherent BS it's tough to tell what you are talking about, but are you saying the guy on the lightning forum copied your post?
I'm on LR and know Bird. This **** head copied and pasted Bird's post from 2013. I'll invite him over so he can see this D bag's work first hand LOL!
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 10:49 AM
  #86  
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E55 amg
Originally Posted by AMG-SVT-FTW
I'm on LR and know Bird. This **** head copied and pasted Bird's post from 2013. I'll invite him over so he can see this D bag's work first hand LOL!

Fyi I was on that forum ..You just joined this forum and your already nut swinging with your girl friend.lol .Trolls 😂
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 10:57 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by oneslow55



Fyi I was on that forum ..You just joined this forum and your already nut swinging with your girl friend.lol .Trolls 😂
LOL! Nice try. You copied and pasted Bird's 5 year old post. Actually, your grammar is so ****ty that's the only way you could post a coherent sentence LMAO!
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 12:20 PM
  #88  
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E55 amg
Originally Posted by AMG-SVT-FTW
LOL! Nice try. You copied and pasted Bird's 5 year old post. Actually, your grammar is so ****ty that's the only way you could post a coherent sentence LMAO!
You clown..lmaooooooooooooooooooo..Let me act like I'm a A+ student on a forum meanwhile you can't even tie your shoes ..Lol.Go back to your junk ford groups and act cool there with your amgsvt name ..hahaahha...typical troll.


Alex , I suggest you slap the valve back you really need to bleed of pressure in between shifts ..Also, it's a fail safe for when iat sky rocket up wot.If you had a bov then maybe you can get away with it but without you can cause major surging unless you had a standalone...I had a very similar setup on this car minus the dual tb like you ran a valve 100% of the time.Are you on a piggy back?
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 12:32 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by oneslow55
You clown..lmaooooooooooooooooooo..Let me act like I'm a A+ student on a forum meanwhile you can't even tie your shoes ..Lol.Go back to your junk ford groups and act cool there with your amgsvt name ..hahaahha...typical troll
To summarize: you copy and past a 5 year old post from a forum you claim to be a member of, and when you get caught you call the poor guy a fagot.
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 12:41 PM
  #90  
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Talking

Originally Posted by oneslow55
Go back to your junk ford groups
Nah, you're way too much fun to trigger

We should change your username though.
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 12:45 PM
  #91  
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E55 amg
Originally Posted by AMG-SVT-FTW
To summarize: you copy and past a 5 year old post from a forum you claim to be a member of, and when you get caught you call the poor guy a fagot.
Hello ,I use to be on that forum

..I use to have a guess you missed that...

Now go play with your xenon headlights..
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 12:58 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by oneslow55
Alex , I suggest you slap the valve back you really need to bleed of pressure in between shifts ..Also, it's a fail safe for when iat sky rocket up wot.If you had a bov then maybe you can get away with it but without you can cause major surging unless you had a standalone...I had a very similar setup on this car minus the dual tb like you ran a valve 100% of the time.Are you on a piggy back?
I’m on standalone and have a Tremec Magnum 6 speed manual behind my engine. Shifts are fine and no surging of any kind. IATs are within 10C idle to WOT. I think what you described is entirely possible on some setups but mine is different. I’m pretty hands on having done all the work myself including fabricating equal length headers for my E55 so if there’s anything to hinder the performance, I’ll be on it.
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Old Mar 30, 2018 | 01:34 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Alex L


I’m on standalone and have a Tremec Magnum 6 speed manual behind my engine. Shifts are fine and no surging of any kind. IATs are within 10C idle to WOT. I think what you described is entirely possible on some setups but mine is different. I’m pretty hands on having done all the work myself including fabricating equal length headers for my E55 so if there’s anything to hinder the performance, I’ll be on it.
How's the boost?i would look into a bov as it will be needed with no valve.
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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 07:03 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Alex L


Steven, thanks for the input. Very interesting to see such an unusual project. Well done!

Now onto the bypass re-integration. Unless I missed something from your post but since you need to re-route the post TB intake air before it reaches the supercharger, will this not require a complete new air inlet that will have the provision for the bypass valve?

EDIT: Just to word it a little better. With the Magnuson unit, where does the bypass flap reside?

Here is a pic from my old supercharged bug engine. Magnuson bypass valve. if i would do it again i would connect it before the intercooler. the shorter distance the better.

A bypass valve is nothing else than a throttle body, vacuum activated. When your throttle bodies close, the bypass valve opens and vice versa. super fast. I would connect it between between the selfmade y pipe and the supercharger outlet on your 55. For size comparison, it was a 90mm throttle body on my bug.

I wouldn`t do a bov on a roots or twinscrew. do a research. this is a no no and cheapens the driving feeling imo because you always hear a "woshhhh" even on part throttle.

Steven

Berlin Germany

Last edited by No2fast; Mar 31, 2018 at 11:53 AM.
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 04:20 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by oneslow55
How's the boost?i would look into a bov as it will be needed with no valve.
Peak boost is 21psi.
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 04:32 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by No2fast
Here is a pic from my old supercharged bug engine. Magnuson bypass valve. if i would do it again i would connect it before the intercooler. the shorter distance the better.

A bypass valve is nothing else than a throttle body, vacuum activated. When your throttle bodies close, the bypass valve opens and vice versa. super fast. I would connect it between between the selfmade y pipe and the supercharger outlet on your 55. For size comparison, it was a 90mm throttle body on my bug.

I wouldn`t do a bov on a roots or twinscrew. do a research. this is a no no and cheapens the driving feeling imo because you always hear a "woshhhh" even on part throttle.

Steven

Berlin Germany
Steven, thanks again for the input. The design of my air inlet and casting where the intercooler resides is different to yours. Weistec made the casting to incorporate the bypass which I intentionally reversed. Until now I haven't experience a single issue some people describe here (I would have by now). I was able to map the car and used a bigger intercooler and made the Weistec casting larger too (this reduced the boost). It was interesting and educational to read all the opinions on the subject though.
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 12:53 AM
  #97  
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clk63, cls55, ml63, (w210) E55
Originally Posted by Alex L
Steven, thanks again for the input. The design of my air inlet and casting where the intercooler resides is different to yours. Weistec made the casting to incorporate the bypass which I intentionally reversed. Until now I haven't experience a single issue some people describe here (I would have by now). I was able to map the car and used a bigger intercooler and made the Weistec casting larger too (this reduced the boost). It was interesting and educational to read all the opinions on the subject though.
I'm kinda curious on the benefits of using the Weistec Supercharger over the factory blower? Our boost is the same. My cooling is better. Your boost is instant. Factory supercharger disengages when things get crazy. I guess it really ends up as personal preference.......right? Regardless, good job walking a different path with your transmission.
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 09:49 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by EREBUS
I'm kinda curious on the benefits of using the Weistec Supercharger over the factory blower? Our boost is the same. My cooling is better. Your boost is instant. Factory supercharger disengages when things get crazy. I guess it really ends up as personal preference.......right? Regardless, good job walking a different path with your transmission.
Thanks.

My boost was measured at 65% throttle. The car hasn't made a full power run yet due to limitation of the fuel system which I'm addressing.

Would be good to know how you determined that your cooling is better and what are the crazy things that require the supercharger to disengage.
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 04:35 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Alex L
My boost was measured at 65% throttle. The car hasn't made a full power run yet due to limitation of the fuel system which I'm addressing. 65% throttle? How does that even work? You did pulls while watching a monitor?

Would be good to know how you determined that your cooling is better Your blower is known for its heat and is limited from variable intercoolers set-ups by its overall design. Regardless, it's still an assumption on my part. My bad.

and what are the crazy things that require the supercharger to disengage. Seriously? Uh, like....intercooler failure/supercharger failure/engine overheating to name a few. It also disengages during transmission limp mode to avoid torque damage.
I have posted this before on my old set-up (183mm/77mm). This was a mile run @85 degree ambient taken at the mile marker. New set-up is 205mm/77mm with higher flow intercoolers.( Honestly, I'll probably max out at 21-22 psi) I guess yours will produce a little more boost. Just curious what your IAT's would be with over 25 seconds of WOT?


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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 05:27 PM
  #100  
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CLK56TT (WIP), S65, RR 5.0 S/C
Originally Posted by EREBUS
65% throttle? How does that even work? You did pulls while watching a monitor?
At 65% throttle and 6000rpm my injectors have reached their limit. Live mapping of standalone ECUs is quite different to stock file flashing.

Originally Posted by EREBUS
Your blower is known for its heat and is limited from variable intercoolers set-ups by its overall design.
'Blower' as in Whipple or the Weistec kit? And what's a 'variable intercooler set up'?

Originally Posted by EREBUS
Seriously? Uh, like....intercooler failure/supercharger failure/engine overheating to name a few. It also disengages during transmission limp mode to avoid torque damage.


I guess all of Whipple customers are screwed then.

Originally Posted by EREBUS
Just curious what your IAT's would be with over 25 seconds of WOT?


Will find out in September. I have a 1.5 mile event coming.
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