CerBErusM113

Pulling the heat exchanger doesn't do anything to the KC. It just rerouted the coolant flow. Put a new heater hose from where it comes out of the Supercharger directly to the IC pump. Regardless, IATs were about 20* above ambient with it and dropped from 135* to 77* in 5 minutes while idling.

BlackHammer

Fellas,

I believe the issue is resolved and you won't believe what the problem was...

Short story long...

The other night, no movement in the engine bay tank. So, this morning I ordered a new Mez pump from Jegs (even though the current pump is 5 months old).

I figured, go give a few things a shot (I have zero mechanical skills).

As it turns out, the mechanic who has done all the work on the car installed a long plastic tube for the inlet/return inside the engine bay tank. This plastic inlet tube ran from the inlet all the way to the corner of the engine bay tank and bent. I believe he did this based on suggestions from some other members to ensure proper flow from the engine bay tank back in the car.

This plastic tube was pretty flimsy. So flimsy that when I pulled it out of the engine bay tank to see if there was any back pressure I noticed that when I put it back in (somewhat kinked) that there was no longer any movement in the engine bay tank.

As it turned out, the tube got kinked and as a result no flow. My guess is the tube was either always slightly kinked and the inlet tube back pressure would eventually close it - almost completely.

I cut about 4" off of it and noticed much improved flow. Then I took out the new datalogger and sure as sh*t my IAT's were below ambient. They got as low as 18 degrees below. I popped the hood and sure thing, the engine bay tank was cold to the touch and the water felt cold.

Now the kicker. A pull from 40 the 2-3 shift (+ a few mph but no triple digits) brought the IAT to 153. Recovery was quick. Bye-Bye 77mm fixed pulley and back on with the 84mm clutched. The 168 crank and 77fsp was just too much. I do wonder if it would make as much heat with a 77mm clutched with the 168mm?

Anyhoo, hopefully it is fixed.

TK

jcjmw

Alright! glad you got it figured out and how it was an easy fix (versus $$$ fix).

trabots

I have been having some KC stalling seen with a thermometer
read-out in the cabin of the water in the IC tank. People keep referring to a clutch on the AC compressor. These 211 and 230 AMGs do not have clutched AC compressors. They have a variable volume compressor controlled by the ECU. So it seems that to get the best KC operation we need to trick the compressor to stay at max volume. My KC works best with the cabin fan at minimum and the temp dials both sides set at coldest and on auto. The tank temp still stalls however then starts to increase before starting to drop again. I have a "drag kit" valve which cools the IC water to under 30deg when everything is working. With the KC sharing with the cabin evaporator around 40deg is the coldest the tank water will get to. Overall, even with the stoppages, the IC water is always colder than ambient which is the theoretical coldest a HE will allow. I would still like to see more consistency in the KC operation however if anyone else has any ideas.

Tommyboy928

seems i have same problem, some valve close down the compressor AC , it stops giving cold lq to the killer chiller, i have a Drag Race valve also fitted, so can cut out the cabin,, so its something with electronic that shut down the cars system , Anybody have any idea what need be done with Star system, TX valve somone talked about? temp sensor inside cabin ? want some good advice on what delete with the star system