2004 E55 AMG! Hello everyone!! Need some help plz!
 

Hello guys! I'm new to this.. I picked up a 2004 e55 AMG

I have a car meet coming up soon and I'm the only one with a benz, so I'm really looking to represent my new car! And I need your help plz. We will be going to the track for a few fun runs and really don't want to lose lol

I'm looking to buy a eurocharged pulley and tune
It's on the eurocharged website for $1,000
My question is if I get the pulley and tune is that it? Or do I need to do more work? And what is it going to cost me...
And what size pulley should I get?
The car is healthy!

IMHO the first thing you should do is upgrade the factory heat exchanger (H/E) and intercooler (I/C) pump.

Then start doing exhaust/flow mods like replacing all the cats with high flow (300cell) models.

Then get the pulley/tune.

If you go for the pully/tune right away the car will boost stack and heat soak which will make it feel like a dog...IMHO.

Thank you for replying!
What would you recommend, what company should I buy the H/E and I/C pump from?
And can I do muffler and resonater delete? Or do I have to mess with the cats?
And approximately how much whp you think I will be at?

Eurocharged or PLM for the H/E and for the pump get a Bosch CM010

You'd gain more HP and sound from swapping the cats. You'll need the mufflers to keep the noise down. As long as you go with quality parts your car won't throw any codes.

I'd guess you'd pick up 10-15whp from just swapping out cats and nothing else.

Doing this will get the car ready for more boost/timing so when you finally go that route it'll be a huge difference.

Thank you!

moved to W211 AMG forum...

Thanks for the input! After some maintenance and tires, I am thinking about replacing the secondary cats and resonators with an x-pipe. Do you have personal experience with replacing your secondary cats and resonators and keeping the stock mufflers? If so, what are your thoughts?

I live in Denver, Colorado where we do have emission inspection, but they are not nearly as strict as in California. I am fishing here, but does anyone have any idea if CO emissions would need 2 or 4 high flow cats on the beast? Has anyone in CO passed emissions with just the stock primary cats? I would enjoy more sound from the beast, but don't want to fail emissions outright.

I can understand your desire to begin modifying your car for more power but let me say, "Slow down".

Speaking from personal experience, I would suggest you first focus on maintenance and system checks. Not sexy, not glorious, but vital to your car's continued functioning and your safety.

Do you have all maintenance records? Go through them carefully.
-If you do not own internal and external Torx bits and sockets, buy a full set (and I mean a full set). I found that Mercedes installed standard metric hex-head bolts in sizes not normally used by Oriental car makers; i.e. 15mm, 18mm, 19mm.
-Purchase a quality diagnostic system.
-If your car has more than 60,000 miles, you'd better have evidence the fuel pumps/filters/relay were replaced via a service or the Mercedes repair (many posts on this subject). If no proof, cough up the $1000 and replace immediately.
-Remove the belts; spin all pulleys and ensure smooth operation. Any roughness or noise, ruthlessly replace them. Rebuild the supercharger idler pulley for $27 or buy a new one for $540. Remember I said, "full set of Torx bits"? The tensioner pulley on the bottom of the engine uses an odd-size Torx bit that is usually not included in the standard sets. Very easy to strip the Torx bolt and it is in a *bad* location to remove if stripped. (No need to ask me how I learned this one.)
-Inspect the supercharger clutch springs for cracks. If cracked, replace immediately!!! Purchase and install a scatter shield for the supercharger clutch. If one of the springs lets go, it will buzz saw right through the oil line next to it.
-If you are near 100,000 miles, spark plugs and wires. You'll need the Mercedes spark plug boot removal tool to make this easy. The wires are multiple part numbers and sizes so remove and place in order on the floor so you can match the new ones to the old.
-Inspect the motor mounts and transmission mount.
-Inspect the flex discs on the driveshaft and the center support bracket and bearing. Any cracks in the flex discs you should replace. As long as the driveshaft is out, replace the support bracket (it has a rubber support in it that sags over time) and the bearing.
-Take a look at how the tires are wearing; if both inside and outside of a tire are "chunking" or "peeling", it is a good bet you need bushings and ball joints. Don't let a static alignment fool you into thinking all is well. With the car on the rack it will align into spec but once you get it on the road the dynamics of the suspension will have the wheels and tires moving back and forth (thus the undue wear on both inside and outside simultaneously on the tires).
-Keep an eye on the SBC brake actuation count. Plan on the expense of replacing the SBC rather than just resetting the counter. i.e. don't be a "Cheap Charlie". I personally appreciate the fact the airlines pull engines and rebuild at a set interval rather than running them until they quit in the air with me on board.
-Appreciate the fact the SBC can crush your fingers if you work on the brake system without following the proper procedures.
-Purchase a Solar BA-5 battery tester and monitor the health of your batteries. When down to 50% of capacity, replace. Again, don't wait for failure! Preventive maintenance. If the main electrical system fails, all you have is that little tiny motorcycle battery under the hood providing the power to your brake system. It won't last long so be prepared to hit the parking brake with your foot while standing on the brake pedal.
-Do NOT confuse the relay/fuse diagrams of the non-AMG W211 with your AMG W211! Non-AMG fuel pump fuse/relay are actually the AMG heat exchanger coolant pump fuse/relay. The non-AMG air pump fuse/relay are actually the AMG oil cooler radiator fan fuse/relay. You will find your model year 2004 air pump relay over the auxiliary battery under the hood; in a 2005 the air pump relay is next to the fuel pump relay in the rear; E55s built on or after 1 June 2005 have two fuel pump relays in addition to the air pump relay. Your fuel pump fuse/relay are hidden behind the passenger side panel in the trunk; there is no access port so you have to pull the whole panel. This $4 part will put you on the side of the road and it throws no error codes!
-Be prepared to buy the tools and test equipment if you are going to work on it yourself. If not, have deep pockets. FWIW, I went over my car front to rear between 90,000 and 100,000 miles to rebuild major systems and it cost me approximately $6000 just in parts. Yes, you can replace one bad piece at a time but that just means you are going to go back into that same sub-system in a few months or so to replace another worn part. If you are in there, just do it all in one shot. I am referring to the suspension specifically here. If an air spring fails, just do the entire set at one time. And yes, there is a specific procedure to follow when re-inflating the air springs.
-Nice to add items are the UPD heat exchanger in the front and a set of UPD toe arms in the rear; allowing for the time to drop the exhaust to reach the adjustment bolts, the UPD toe arms turn a one-hour job into a 10-minute job. Both are available from Shardul here on the forum.
-Get the car into tip-top shape and then begin adding the power. Remember, when this car first came out, it was the quickest 4-door sedan in the world. It is still impressive.

+1
Do compression test or leakdown
Make sure she is good to go before putting extra stress on the motor

+1 again

Very true! I completely forgot this one! :smash:

Barry

You need to just copy paste all that into a "I just bought a e55 what is the 1st thing to do" Post

Title it New E55 Owner Read ME 1st or something of the likes. All of that is performance car gospel!

Just saying I know that you get sick of repeating yourself...

Thank you guys for the answers I ended up buying stage 2 from eurocharged
Will be coming in sometime this week!

The same applies even if it's a modified car especially on the compression

LOL! I think that would make a great sticky! I just needed someone to slap me upside the head to get me unstuck! :slap:

I thought the same thing when I read your post and I drive an E63. :bow:

That's funny. I have most of the parts mentioned and then some.

Wheel bearings, and I think by 100k the front of the engine needs to come off including the chain tensioners.

Maybe new chains? Im used to long timing belts.