My new E55! Budget IAT and mods plan of attack! With some questions ;-)
#1
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Thread Starter
My new E55! Budget IAT and mods plan of attack! Updated for completion and results!
Update: Completion and results!
Hello every one! I have my new to me 100% stock 05 E55 and boy do I love it! I have trolled the forums for a bit before I bought the car, and now I have it! First think I'm going to do is address cooling. Had a couple questions and any constructive feedback would be appreciated!
Here is what I'm thinking.
1(or 2) additional heat exchangers (ebay heater cores, I will fab some mounts) - One small one in front of the radiator(no bigger than 50-60 square inches) and possibly one more if I found a suitable mounting location.
I figure the additional flow and ~100 sq inches of surface area will set me up pretty well for future mods! I figure all of it will cost me ~$300 and cool better than a $400 heat exchange upgrade. At the moment I am thinking complete list of mods will just be these cooling mods, 77mm clutched SC pulley, and a tune.
Let me know what you guys think!
UPDATE: COOLING MOD COMPLETION
Don't mind that home made rubber bumper lip, just there until the wife gives me the go ahead for the E63 upgrade ;-)
You should see it the way it was when I got it, nothing there at all haha. Looked terrible.
Anyways, actual logs to come soon!
And credit for the pump find and all of the research goes to the guys in these posts:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/411058-intercooler-pump-you-didn-t-know-about.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/m275-v12-...ion-pumps.html
Hello every one! I have my new to me 100% stock 05 E55 and boy do I love it! I have trolled the forums for a bit before I bought the car, and now I have it! First think I'm going to do is address cooling. Had a couple questions and any constructive feedback would be appreciated!
Here is what I'm thinking.
1(or 2) additional heat exchangers (ebay heater cores, I will fab some mounts) - One small one in front of the radiator(no bigger than 50-60 square inches) and possibly one more if I found a suitable mounting location.
- Are the heat exchanger and IC pump fittings just 3/4 barb and plumbed with 3/4 coolant hose with worm clamps?
- Any one with first hand experience of the WP136S over over the other pumps notice significant IAT affect? (Not looking for some one with a minimal understanding of heat transfer and fluid flow in a closed system to try to explain to me that it is too much flow please, I found plenty of that on the search)
I figure the additional flow and ~100 sq inches of surface area will set me up pretty well for future mods! I figure all of it will cost me ~$300 and cool better than a $400 heat exchange upgrade. At the moment I am thinking complete list of mods will just be these cooling mods, 77mm clutched SC pulley, and a tune.
Let me know what you guys think!
UPDATE: COOLING MOD COMPLETION
Okay folks, I've finished! Here is what I ended up doing:
PUMP:CW50
Ebay, used, $80 shipped.(Cheaper without BMW bracket)
Part:11517566335
I bought a pump w/ a BMW bracket because I knew I had to come up with a way to mount it, but ended up using the stock bracket. I used a grinding wheel to shape it better and then used a T-Bolt clamp to fix the CW50 to it(You have to flatten out a slanted edge of the bracket for the clamp to sit flushly on). I also cut the rubber dampening material off the stock pump and put it around the CW50 under the clamp.
For any one interested also get electrical connections:
1 x 12527549033 Plastic Socket Housing
4 x 61138366245 Rubber sealing grommets
4 x 12527545858 Individual Socket Pins
Heat Exchanger:Frozen boost 36x7x3.5
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...0b4fee25778e3a
I got it for $180 bucks off amazon, because I had an amazon gift card and it happened to be on there
This thing was actually a bit of a pain. It is 2x as thick as the stock unit and about 2 inches taller. I made brackets to completely go around the thing out of aluminum strap metal from Lowes. I used a 1/4" piece down the front, and like 1/8 or 1/16 strap that I could bend to form a rectangular bracket around the back, and use all four mounting holes. This thing is VERY heavy so I wanted to make sure it was secure. I used 4 3/4 inch spacers to set the heat exchanger back under the bumper a little bit which ended up being perfect. Drill 4 holes through the bumper and bolts the freshly made brackets up and not it's very sturdy. Unfortunately sacrificing some surface area because of the brackets but I WOULD NOT TRUST using only the top 2 mounting points. Unfortunately it sits about 2 inches below the bottom of my make shift bumper lip(Previous owner broke the bumper lip off before I bought it) So I bolted a 90° bracket across the bottom two mounting bolts and used some plastic to make it just look like a bottom plastic cover. I used worm clamps to hold up the oil cooler around what ever the cylinder behind the heat exchanger is. Looks like something on the AC system. Moisture separator or something. Also I was able to use all the stock hose except for the pump suction. The factory piece was a little too short so used about 7 inches of autozone 3/4" heater hose.
The reason I ended up going with this instead of an additional heat exchanger is the additional heat exchanger in series increases pressure and reduces flow, which I didn't want to do. Replacing the stock heat exchanger with this instead both added a lot of surface area AND reduced system pressure.
Results!
I wanted to share results in the form of some data logging, but I was not familiar with the Torque logging and thought it just logged what ever page you were on. False. So until my next trip out it will just have to be my word.
Outside Conditions: 100°F, 100% sunshine, 10% humidity. Good ol' Nevada.
Starting IAT: 112° (Car was thoroughly warmed up as well, driven ~15 city miles in 100° heat with a couple hard pules here and there)
Pull from 40-110mph starting in second gear resulted in a max IAT of 137°
It caught at 137° and I think was at 135° when I let off. Came down very quickly, not sure how fast but was at +20° from ambient pretty fast. Took about 5 mins to drift down to the lowest it got before I was home was about +13° from ambient.
I have done several hard pulls here and there all in 95-100 degrees in the past week and have not seen IAT hit 140 one time. It looks like it always catches and settles out in mid 130s.
PUMP:CW50
Ebay, used, $80 shipped.(Cheaper without BMW bracket)
Part:11517566335
I bought a pump w/ a BMW bracket because I knew I had to come up with a way to mount it, but ended up using the stock bracket. I used a grinding wheel to shape it better and then used a T-Bolt clamp to fix the CW50 to it(You have to flatten out a slanted edge of the bracket for the clamp to sit flushly on). I also cut the rubber dampening material off the stock pump and put it around the CW50 under the clamp.
For any one interested also get electrical connections:
1 x 12527549033 Plastic Socket Housing
4 x 61138366245 Rubber sealing grommets
4 x 12527545858 Individual Socket Pins
Heat Exchanger:Frozen boost 36x7x3.5
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...0b4fee25778e3a
I got it for $180 bucks off amazon, because I had an amazon gift card and it happened to be on there
This thing was actually a bit of a pain. It is 2x as thick as the stock unit and about 2 inches taller. I made brackets to completely go around the thing out of aluminum strap metal from Lowes. I used a 1/4" piece down the front, and like 1/8 or 1/16 strap that I could bend to form a rectangular bracket around the back, and use all four mounting holes. This thing is VERY heavy so I wanted to make sure it was secure. I used 4 3/4 inch spacers to set the heat exchanger back under the bumper a little bit which ended up being perfect. Drill 4 holes through the bumper and bolts the freshly made brackets up and not it's very sturdy. Unfortunately sacrificing some surface area because of the brackets but I WOULD NOT TRUST using only the top 2 mounting points. Unfortunately it sits about 2 inches below the bottom of my make shift bumper lip(Previous owner broke the bumper lip off before I bought it) So I bolted a 90° bracket across the bottom two mounting bolts and used some plastic to make it just look like a bottom plastic cover. I used worm clamps to hold up the oil cooler around what ever the cylinder behind the heat exchanger is. Looks like something on the AC system. Moisture separator or something. Also I was able to use all the stock hose except for the pump suction. The factory piece was a little too short so used about 7 inches of autozone 3/4" heater hose.
The reason I ended up going with this instead of an additional heat exchanger is the additional heat exchanger in series increases pressure and reduces flow, which I didn't want to do. Replacing the stock heat exchanger with this instead both added a lot of surface area AND reduced system pressure.
Results!
I wanted to share results in the form of some data logging, but I was not familiar with the Torque logging and thought it just logged what ever page you were on. False. So until my next trip out it will just have to be my word.
Outside Conditions: 100°F, 100% sunshine, 10% humidity. Good ol' Nevada.
Starting IAT: 112° (Car was thoroughly warmed up as well, driven ~15 city miles in 100° heat with a couple hard pules here and there)
Pull from 40-110mph starting in second gear resulted in a max IAT of 137°
It caught at 137° and I think was at 135° when I let off. Came down very quickly, not sure how fast but was at +20° from ambient pretty fast. Took about 5 mins to drift down to the lowest it got before I was home was about +13° from ambient.
I have done several hard pulls here and there all in 95-100 degrees in the past week and have not seen IAT hit 140 one time. It looks like it always catches and settles out in mid 130s.
You should see it the way it was when I got it, nothing there at all haha. Looked terrible.
Anyways, actual logs to come soon!
And credit for the pump find and all of the research goes to the guys in these posts:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/411058-intercooler-pump-you-didn-t-know-about.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/m275-v12-...ion-pumps.html
Last edited by drothgeb; 07-29-2017 at 07:06 PM.
#4
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Take your time. Make sure the car is up to like-new or almost-new standards. Don't start replacing parts *****-nilly.
Research, plan, execute. In that order.
The E55 is a great car but it is maintenance intensive. Keep up on the maintenance and you'll have a great daily driver.
PM me your email address and I'll send you a little bit of technical info on your car.
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drothgeb (07-03-2017)
#5
I use groco cp20 pump, 17 gallons per minute you just need to buy 3/4 barb fittings for it and you can get it to fit with a little modification. I was under 200 dollars when done.
I defiantly saw a difference in iat and don't split the system unless you are doing a gallon+ tank. Because with a high flow pump and small amount of coolant then it won't cool properly.
If his ic pump is the original it is probably bad, common issue, so he is just doing neccasary maintenance.
I defiantly saw a difference in iat and don't split the system unless you are doing a gallon+ tank. Because with a high flow pump and small amount of coolant then it won't cool properly.
If his ic pump is the original it is probably bad, common issue, so he is just doing neccasary maintenance.
#7
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93' 500E, 95' Corolla
Hello every one! I have my new to me 100% stock 05 E55 and boy do I love it! I have trolled the forums for a bit before I bought the car, and now I have it! First think I'm going to do is address cooling. Had a couple questions and any constructive feedback would be appreciated!
Here is what I'm thinking.
1(or 2) additional heat exchangers (ebay heater cores, I will fab some mounts) - One small one in front of the radiator(no bigger than 50-60 square inches) and possibly one more if I found a suitable mounting location.
I figure the additional flow and ~100 sq inches of surface area will set me up pretty well for future mods! I figure all of it will cost me ~$300 and cool better than a $400 heat exchange upgrade. At the moment I am thinking complete list of mods will just be these cooling mods, 77mm clutched SC pulley, and a tune.
Let me know what you guys think!
Here is what I'm thinking.
1(or 2) additional heat exchangers (ebay heater cores, I will fab some mounts) - One small one in front of the radiator(no bigger than 50-60 square inches) and possibly one more if I found a suitable mounting location.
- Are the heat exchanger and IC pump fittings just 3/4 barb and plumbed with 3/4 coolant hose with worm clamps?
- Any one with first hand experience of the WP136S over over the other pumps notice significant IAT affect? (Not looking for some one with a minimal understanding of heat transfer and fluid flow in a closed system to try to explain to me that it is too much flow please, I found plenty of that on the search)
I figure the additional flow and ~100 sq inches of surface area will set me up pretty well for future mods! I figure all of it will cost me ~$300 and cool better than a $400 heat exchange upgrade. At the moment I am thinking complete list of mods will just be these cooling mods, 77mm clutched SC pulley, and a tune.
Let me know what you guys think!
You'll be happy to have done it once
Thanks
Dave
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#9
Super Member
Thread Starter
I use groco cp20 pump, 17 gallons per minute you just need to buy 3/4 barb fittings for it and you can get it to fit with a little modification. I was under 200 dollars when done.
I defiantly saw a difference in iat and don't split the system unless you are doing a gallon+ tank. Because with a high flow pump and small amount of coolant then it won't cool properly.
If his ic pump is the original it is probably bad, common issue, so he is just doing neccasary maintenance.
I defiantly saw a difference in iat and don't split the system unless you are doing a gallon+ tank. Because with a high flow pump and small amount of coolant then it won't cool properly.
If his ic pump is the original it is probably bad, common issue, so he is just doing neccasary maintenance.
25A?! Must be a big one lol, I'll check it out. Have you put that current draw on your alternator without any issues? I'm guessing you wired in a relay and ran new wires for it?
Last edited by drothgeb; 07-04-2017 at 11:12 AM.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Look for a thread talking about pumps and it's clear on the graphs which ones are the best
Bosch is better than the Johnson
Stewart with the lingenfelter tune up is best but 25a is way too much, whether you run a relay and bigger wires makes no diff it will be taking a lot of juice from the electrical system, that's like putting a parasite on the electrical system that's already over loaded
Bosch is better than the Johnson
Stewart with the lingenfelter tune up is best but 25a is way too much, whether you run a relay and bigger wires makes no diff it will be taking a lot of juice from the electrical system, that's like putting a parasite on the electrical system that's already over loaded
#11
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
I thought we all agreed that bosch 010 is go to, if you try to do the superflow route you need to beef up the wiring and fuse right?
At any rate, OP, what I've learned from Shardul you wanna do PLM cooler, new pump (bosch 010) and maybe headers.
Other best route is killer chiller if you want to avoid the air to water heat exchange.
At any rate, OP, what I've learned from Shardul you wanna do PLM cooler, new pump (bosch 010) and maybe headers.
Other best route is killer chiller if you want to avoid the air to water heat exchange.
#12
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it's not a super flow or whatever anyone wants to call it lol
It's the pierburg pumps
You only need a relay and bigger wiring for the cwa100
With the cwa50 regular wiring is fine
Again if you will just do heat exchanger then Bosch is best bang for buck
It's the pierburg pumps
You only need a relay and bigger wiring for the cwa100
With the cwa50 regular wiring is fine
Again if you will just do heat exchanger then Bosch is best bang for buck
#13
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Thread Starter
Very cool find by Welwynnick and the other guys that did this research.
#15
Bosch 010 is what a v uses too it pumps well more then plenty
#16
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the guys with cordial input haha.
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Forrest Gump 9 (07-29-2017)
#18
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2005 E55 AMG, 1991 MR2
I bought an 010 as soon as I got my car.
#19
I did not ask you what the price was. I made a statement.
If there is a pump that flows more fluid for a similar price there is no reason not to go with the higher flowing pump. Higher flow, is higher cooling. Apparently every one loves to rant about how cooling is the biggest problem with these cars and then when some one wants to chat about how he's going to approach fixing it every one likes to be a bunch of chin up ****s about it and tell him the bosch 010 is good enough.
Thanks for the guys with cordial input haha.
If there is a pump that flows more fluid for a similar price there is no reason not to go with the higher flowing pump. Higher flow, is higher cooling. Apparently every one loves to rant about how cooling is the biggest problem with these cars and then when some one wants to chat about how he's going to approach fixing it every one likes to be a bunch of chin up ****s about it and tell him the bosch 010 is good enough.
Thanks for the guys with cordial input haha.
#20
Super Member
Thread Starter
However thankfully I have learned a lot from this thread. Just some of the people above mentioning different pump names I hadn't found has brought up a wealth of new search results, even if some of the people mentioning them didn't actually care to help and may have just been popping off a quick snarky remark. All good.
#23
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Thread Starter
#24
Junior Member
I run a Pierburg CWA 100.2 With a SFR Electronics controller. I have the 84 mm clutched pulley and a 168 crank pulley. Split-cooling with my own under hood tank and 3/4 plumbing throughout, single pass intercooler and a Eurocharged heat exchanger. my system runs at 13 psi and 5.8 gallons a minute. I have never seen my IAT over 125, even on the chassis dyno.
#25
Super Member
Thread Starter
I run a Pierburg CWA 100.2 With a SFR Electronics controller. I have the 84 mm clutched pulley and a 168 crank pulley. Split-cooling with my own under hood tank and 3/4 plumbing throughout, single pass intercooler and a Eurocharged heat exchanger. my system runs at 13 psi and 5.8 gallons a minute. I have never seen my IAT over 125, even on the chassis dyno.
You might be able to tell that I'm frugal as **** haha. Overall cost of my cooling upgrades was ~$200. (Well, I had a 75$ amazon gift card, so really closer to 300 haha)
I gotta nock out the split cooling at some point though for sure.
Last edited by drothgeb; 07-30-2017 at 05:00 PM.