W211 E55 fuel tank replacement. Verify parts!
08-01-2020, 12:37 PM
#51
I just saw you have an 03. You need the updated harness from the trunk to the SAM Driver as well or you risk a fire that will turn your car into a crispy critter. Has happened numerous times in recent years since the updated pumps were installed. We forced MB to do that after our trunk almost caught on fire. They were not happy with our overwhelming evidence and documentation we brought to them. They took 9 weeks to figure it out with MBUSA (MBUSA is completely aware if the problem they have caused). MB told us the bill was over $2400 which they swallowed and told us they try to get reimbursed by MBUSA.
08-01-2020, 01:26 PM
#52
Super Member
I just saw you have an 03. You need the updated harness from the trunk to the SAM Driver as well or you risk a fire that will turn your car into a crispy critter. Has happened numerous times in recent years since the updated pumps were installed. We forced MB to do that after our trunk almost caught on fire. They were not happy with our overwhelming evidence and documentation we brought to them. They took 9 weeks to figure it out with MBUSA (MBUSA is completely aware if the problem they have caused). MB told us the bill was over $2400 which they swallowed and told us they try to get reimbursed by MBUSA.
If you don't mind sending me any documentation you've got from that process, I'd appreciate it. Does it run from the SAM to the relays on the right side of the trunk? I think I saw that further up the thread.
08-01-2020, 01:47 PM
#53
Wow, what a mess. I'm worried that my motor is damaged after running with incorrect wiring for so long. Ordered a borescope, and going to do a leakdown test.
If you don't mind sending me any documentation you've got from that process, I'd appreciate it. Does it run from the SAM to the relays on the right side of the trunk? I think I saw that further up the thread.
If you don't mind sending me any documentation you've got from that process, I'd appreciate it. Does it run from the SAM to the relays on the right side of the trunk? I think I saw that further up the thread.
08-02-2020, 08:38 AM
#54
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
I just saw you have an 03. You need the updated harness from the trunk to the SAM Driver as well or you risk a fire that will turn your car into a crispy critter. Has happened numerous times in recent years since the updated pumps were installed. We forced MB to do that after our trunk almost caught on fire. They were not happy with our overwhelming evidence and documentation we brought to them. They took 9 weeks to figure it out with MBUSA (MBUSA is completely aware if the problem they have caused). MB told us the bill was over $2400 which they swallowed and told us they try to get reimbursed by MBUSA.
Is there a writeup somewhere with part numbers for that? I thought all I needed was the "adapter harness" not new wiring in the trunk...just sort of mentally planning for this job which I'm sure I will do at some point.
08-02-2020, 08:52 AM
#55
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
I just saw you have an 03. You need the updated harness from the trunk to the SAM Driver as well or you risk a fire that will turn your car into a crispy critter. Has happened numerous times in recent years since the updated pumps were installed. We forced MB to do that after our trunk almost caught on fire. They were not happy with our overwhelming evidence and documentation we brought to them. They took 9 weeks to figure it out with MBUSA (MBUSA is completely aware if the problem they have caused). MB told us the bill was over $2400 which they swallowed and told us they try to get reimbursed by MBUSA.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post8120332
If anyone can provide me a VIN from a 2006 E55 (any VIN so long as it is a 2006), I will create and release another schematic that is strictly for the 2006; that model uses an additional pin on the ME to trigger the other relay. Easier to figure out the connections if I only have to look at one schematic rather than four partial schematics (the E55 has four different harness configurations for the fuel pump relay and pumps). Two iterations in the '03, third iteration in the '05, fourth iteration in the '06.
08-02-2020, 12:51 PM
#56
Mackhack, good to hear you finally have your car back and running. Be advised I released a revised schematic for the '03 to '05 E55. Trigger for the relay comes from N3/10 ME, not N10/2 Rear SAM. Power for the solenoid comes from N10/1 Front SAM and not N10/2 Rear SAM. I was obviously dyslexic when creating the schematic from memory. If you know for sure how your new harness was spliced into the system that would be good information. (Side note: I'll be sending you a PM about programming a replacement Instrument Cluster for my W210 E55. I continue to get CANBUS errors from it whenever the temps are below room temperature so I intend to replace it. Obviously I'll need the mileage on the replacement corrected to match my car.)
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post8120332
If anyone can provide me a VIN from a 2006 E55 (any VIN so long as it is a 2006), I will create and release another schematic that is strictly for the 2006; that model uses an additional pin on the ME to trigger the other relay. Easier to figure out the connections if I only have to look at one schematic rather than four partial schematics (the E55 has four different harness configurations for the fuel pump relay and pumps). Two iterations in the '03, third iteration in the '05, fourth iteration in the '06.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post8120332
If anyone can provide me a VIN from a 2006 E55 (any VIN so long as it is a 2006), I will create and release another schematic that is strictly for the 2006; that model uses an additional pin on the ME to trigger the other relay. Easier to figure out the connections if I only have to look at one schematic rather than four partial schematics (the E55 has four different harness configurations for the fuel pump relay and pumps). Two iterations in the '03, third iteration in the '05, fourth iteration in the '06.
I can try to find out what they did in the front. I have currently removed the dash board, both front seats, rear seat, everything out of the trunk, and the middle console for a major project. So right now everything is pretty accessible
During the gutting I have noticed that the dealership didn’t do a “The Best or Nothing) Job at all. The relay holder in the back where mounted where they shouldn’t have been mounted, they forgot a dirty oily rag behind the right side trunk panel, ruined the right side trunk panel (punched a hole in it), stained the rear carpet, put the carpet over the plastic panel covering the right rear fender between the door and the rear seat cushion, used zip ties instead of the corresponding nuts and bolts per EPC and a few other things. I fixed everything myself as I know they will simply deny any wrong doing as always. I didn’t even want them to put the harness in and asked them if they would simply give me all the parts and I would have done myself and I would have known it would be done right.I have to add a new cable harness to my SAM Driver in the next few days anyways and have to take it out for that retrofit. I’ll report back if I see what they did.
About your cluster, no problem just PM or email me for details.
08-02-2020, 02:10 PM
#57
Super Member
We had it done last year in May. So it’s been a while.
I can try to find out what they did in the front. I have currently removed the dash board, both front seats, rear seat, everything out of the trunk, and the middle console for a major project. So right now everything is pretty accessible During the gutting I have noticed that the dealership didn’t do a “The Best or Nothing) Job at all. The relay holder in the back where mounted where they shouldn’t have been mounted, they forgot a dirty oily rag behind the right side trunk panel, ruined the right side trunk panel (punched a hole in it), stained the rear carpet, put the carpet over the plastic panel covering the right rear fender between the door and the rear seat cushion, used zip ties instead of the corresponding nuts and bolts per EPC and a few other things. I fixed everything myself as I know they will simply deny any wrong doing as always. I didn’t even want them to put the harness in and asked them if they would simply give me all the parts and I would have done myself and I would have known it would be done right.
I have to add a new cable harness to my SAM Driver in the next few days anyways and have to take it out for that retrofit. I’ll report back if I see what they did.
About your cluster, no problem just PM or email me for details.
I can try to find out what they did in the front. I have currently removed the dash board, both front seats, rear seat, everything out of the trunk, and the middle console for a major project. So right now everything is pretty accessible
During the gutting I have noticed that the dealership didn’t do a “The Best or Nothing) Job at all. The relay holder in the back where mounted where they shouldn’t have been mounted, they forgot a dirty oily rag behind the right side trunk panel, ruined the right side trunk panel (punched a hole in it), stained the rear carpet, put the carpet over the plastic panel covering the right rear fender between the door and the rear seat cushion, used zip ties instead of the corresponding nuts and bolts per EPC and a few other things. I fixed everything myself as I know they will simply deny any wrong doing as always. I didn’t even want them to put the harness in and asked them if they would simply give me all the parts and I would have done myself and I would have known it would be done right.I have to add a new cable harness to my SAM Driver in the next few days anyways and have to take it out for that retrofit. I’ll report back if I see what they did.
About your cluster, no problem just PM or email me for details.
What's the best way to go about getting upgraded wires and relays? Just buy them, or try to bug MBUSA about it?
08-02-2020, 02:32 PM
#58
I am replacing the factory multi contour seat air hoses and replace them with the thicker drive dynamic seat air hoses, take out all old harnesses from my various retrofits that I have done over the years, put in my custom made Neck Pro cable harness that I just finished assembling, add the NTG2.5 cable harness, replace the COMAND frame in the dash to hold the NTG2.5 properly in place, remove all obsolete NTG1 control units, change the pins of the Tele Aid control module so the latest one will work also in my car.
I also have disassembled both drive dynamic seats to replace all air cushions as most of them are leaky after 15 years and the cushions are discontinued. Daimler sells what’s left at hand and won’t make more in the future. Once that is done I will also do a few cosmetic things in the engine bay. I just replaced the oil filler neck, valve cover seals (all 4) and oil filter housing seals along with a brand new cowl (California sun completely destroyed the rubber lips). It’s rather a long term project at this time. LOL
Back to topic. After we had the relay issue I dug into bbirdwell’s info’s here and did my own research between WIS, EPC, pictures, videos and articles of burned to the ground E55s and other Infos that I found to strengthen my case and compiled it to a folder of about 30 pages. With that in hand we went back to MB and confronted them with the evidence. We had a 2 hour meeting with the service advisor manager. The most daunting thing is that I also involved high level engineers and managers at MB in Stuttgart about the issue and slowly but surely it was clear to us that MB was fully aware of the issues and calculated that it’s cheaper to have a few cars burn up than through more parts in for free than necessary.
What that means is this: If you’d go to the parts counter and order the new upgraded pump you’d get all the add-on parts like the updated harness, adapters and so on) that are listed under the pump no questions asked. But going through the extended warranty they only replace the bare minimum. And that is where the problems start. Most customers are clueless anyways and would never even know that MB doesn’t do it right. I can’t eben blame the mechanics as they only follow instructions (TIPS and DTB). But 8m sure the smarter mechanics amongst the herd figured it out that there must be a discrepancy between the right way of doing it and the MBUSA way of doing it.
I know that we have made MBUSA as well as the mothership fully aware of the issue or better that we as the customer know they ****ed up. I’m glad that I have the connections that I have to MB in Germany and that I made MB to fess up and swallow the cost of doing it right.
Ihope this gives you a rough plan of how to tackle your dealership. In my opinion, you shouldn’t fork up a dime of your own money to get this done. Either make them do it or at least make them hand over all parts needed and do it yourself. Like I said before, I wish I would have done the work myself after what I found after the fact.
I also have disassembled both drive dynamic seats to replace all air cushions as most of them are leaky after 15 years and the cushions are discontinued. Daimler sells what’s left at hand and won’t make more in the future. Once that is done I will also do a few cosmetic things in the engine bay. I just replaced the oil filler neck, valve cover seals (all 4) and oil filter housing seals along with a brand new cowl (California sun completely destroyed the rubber lips). It’s rather a long term project at this time. LOL
Back to topic. After we had the relay issue I dug into bbirdwell’s info’s here and did my own research between WIS, EPC, pictures, videos and articles of burned to the ground E55s and other Infos that I found to strengthen my case and compiled it to a folder of about 30 pages. With that in hand we went back to MB and confronted them with the evidence. We had a 2 hour meeting with the service advisor manager. The most daunting thing is that I also involved high level engineers and managers at MB in Stuttgart about the issue and slowly but surely it was clear to us that MB was fully aware of the issues and calculated that it’s cheaper to have a few cars burn up than through more parts in for free than necessary.
What that means is this: If you’d go to the parts counter and order the new upgraded pump you’d get all the add-on parts like the updated harness, adapters and so on) that are listed under the pump no questions asked. But going through the extended warranty they only replace the bare minimum. And that is where the problems start. Most customers are clueless anyways and would never even know that MB doesn’t do it right. I can’t eben blame the mechanics as they only follow instructions (TIPS and DTB). But 8m sure the smarter mechanics amongst the herd figured it out that there must be a discrepancy between the right way of doing it and the MBUSA way of doing it.
I know that we have made MBUSA as well as the mothership fully aware of the issue or better that we as the customer know they ****ed up. I’m glad that I have the connections that I have to MB in Germany and that I made MB to fess up and swallow the cost of doing it right.
Ihope this gives you a rough plan of how to tackle your dealership. In my opinion, you shouldn’t fork up a dime of your own money to get this done. Either make them do it or at least make them hand over all parts needed and do it yourself. Like I said before, I wish I would have done the work myself after what I found after the fact.
08-02-2020, 03:01 PM
#59
Super Member
I am replacing the factory multi contour seat air hoses and replace them with the thicker drive dynamic seat air hoses, take out all old harnesses from my various retrofits that I have done over the years, put in my custom made Neck Pro cable harness that I just finished assembling, add the NTG2.5 cable harness, replace the COMAND frame in the dash to hold the NTG2.5 properly in place, remove all obsolete NTG1 control units, change the pins of the Tele Aid control module so the latest one will work also in my car.
I also have disassembled both drive dynamic seats to replace all air cushions as most of them are leaky after 15 years and the cushions are discontinued. Daimler sells what’s left at hand and won’t make more in the future. Once that is done I will also do a few cosmetic things in the engine bay. I just replaced the oil filler neck, valve cover seals (all 4) and oil filter housing seals along with a brand new cowl (California sun completely destroyed the rubber lips). It’s rather a long term project at this time. LOL
Back to topic. After we had the relay issue I dug into bbirdwell’s info’s here and did my own research between WIS, EPC, pictures, videos and articles of burned to the ground E55s and other Infos that I found to strengthen my case and compiled it to a folder of about 30 pages. With that in hand we went back to MB and confronted them with the evidence. We had a 2 hour meeting with the service advisor manager. The most daunting thing is that I also involved high level engineers and managers at MB in Stuttgart about the issue and slowly but surely it was clear to us that MB was fully aware of the issues and calculated that it’s cheaper to have a few cars burn up than through more parts in for free than necessary.
What that means is this: If you’d go to the parts counter and order the new upgraded pump you’d get all the add-on parts like the updated harness, adapters and so on) that are listed under the pump no questions asked. But going through the extended warranty they only replace the bare minimum. And that is where the problems start. Most customers are clueless anyways and would never even know that MB doesn’t do it right. I can’t eben blame the mechanics as they only follow instructions (TIPS and DTB). But 8m sure the smarter mechanics amongst the herd figured it out that there must be a discrepancy between the right way of doing it and the MBUSA way of doing it.
I know that we have made MBUSA as well as the mothership fully aware of the issue or better that we as the customer know they ****ed up. I’m glad that I have the connections that I have to MB in Germany and that I made MB to fess up and swallow the cost of doing it right.
Ihope this gives you a rough plan of how to tackle your dealership. In my opinion, you shouldn’t fork up a dime of your own money to get this done. Either make them do it or at least make them hand over all parts needed and do it yourself. Like I said before, I wish I would have done the work myself after what I found after the fact.
I also have disassembled both drive dynamic seats to replace all air cushions as most of them are leaky after 15 years and the cushions are discontinued. Daimler sells what’s left at hand and won’t make more in the future. Once that is done I will also do a few cosmetic things in the engine bay. I just replaced the oil filler neck, valve cover seals (all 4) and oil filter housing seals along with a brand new cowl (California sun completely destroyed the rubber lips). It’s rather a long term project at this time. LOL
Back to topic. After we had the relay issue I dug into bbirdwell’s info’s here and did my own research between WIS, EPC, pictures, videos and articles of burned to the ground E55s and other Infos that I found to strengthen my case and compiled it to a folder of about 30 pages. With that in hand we went back to MB and confronted them with the evidence. We had a 2 hour meeting with the service advisor manager. The most daunting thing is that I also involved high level engineers and managers at MB in Stuttgart about the issue and slowly but surely it was clear to us that MB was fully aware of the issues and calculated that it’s cheaper to have a few cars burn up than through more parts in for free than necessary.
What that means is this: If you’d go to the parts counter and order the new upgraded pump you’d get all the add-on parts like the updated harness, adapters and so on) that are listed under the pump no questions asked. But going through the extended warranty they only replace the bare minimum. And that is where the problems start. Most customers are clueless anyways and would never even know that MB doesn’t do it right. I can’t eben blame the mechanics as they only follow instructions (TIPS and DTB). But 8m sure the smarter mechanics amongst the herd figured it out that there must be a discrepancy between the right way of doing it and the MBUSA way of doing it.
I know that we have made MBUSA as well as the mothership fully aware of the issue or better that we as the customer know they ****ed up. I’m glad that I have the connections that I have to MB in Germany and that I made MB to fess up and swallow the cost of doing it right.
Ihope this gives you a rough plan of how to tackle your dealership. In my opinion, you shouldn’t fork up a dime of your own money to get this done. Either make them do it or at least make them hand over all parts needed and do it yourself. Like I said before, I wish I would have done the work myself after what I found after the fact.
A word of advice while you've got this much apart, take out the HVAC and reinforce the thin plastic stoppers for the flap motors. If you look at it, the white plastic bit spins around and bumps into these plastic end points, to create boundaries. If yours haven't yet, they'll eventually punch through, and then the flap positions will not be where the computer thinks they are.
I did this repair partially with what I could access with the dash off. Planning to do a more thorough job soon to repair the ones I couldn't reach.
08-02-2020, 03:06 PM
#60
Do you habe pictures of that? I have put the dash back in already. Didn’t know of that issue but that is good to know. I do have one flap that I believe gets stuck sometimes. I notice it by a loud noise sometimes. I believe the motor tries to move it and once there is enough tension on it then it suddenly moves like two tectonic plates which cause an earth quake. Sorry can’t explain it better.
08-02-2020, 03:10 PM
#61
Super Member
Do you habe pictures of that? I have put the dash back in already. Didn’t know of that issue but that is good to know. I do have one flap that I believe gets stuck sometimes. I notice it by a loud noise sometimes. I believe the motor tries to move it and once there is enough tension on it then it suddenly moves like two tectonic plates which cause an earth quake. Sorry can’t explain it better.
1mm more thickness of plastic and these would last forever, but a corner was cut and eventually all of these units will go bad as the plastic ages. Not sure if MB or the manufacturer is to blame.
I'll send photos, I should have some but need to look around, and don't want to thread-jack further, sorry OP.
08-02-2020, 03:16 PM
#62
I know it exactly, it is a good description. What you're hearing is that the stopper broke, motor keeps pushing on it, and the plastic flap pushes through the rubber lining/gasket that it is supposed to sit snugly against.
1mm more thickness of plastic and these would last forever, but a corner was cut and eventually all of these units will go bad as the plastic ages. Not sure if MB or the manufacturer is to blame.
I'll send photos, I should have some but need to look around, and don't want to thread-jack further, sorry OP.
1mm more thickness of plastic and these would last forever, but a corner was cut and eventually all of these units will go bad as the plastic ages. Not sure if MB or the manufacturer is to blame.
I'll send photos, I should have some but need to look around, and don't want to thread-jack further, sorry OP.
08-02-2020, 06:09 PM
#63
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-2714700000
08-02-2020, 06:16 PM
#64
I presume this kit is not enough to fully convert my 04 to all the required updates then?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-2714700000
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-2714700000
08-02-2020, 06:17 PM
#65
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
Sometimes their prices are quite competitive so it's a no brainer with the warranty. I take it that kit is not a good deal. That said, it means I could get new fuel pumps as much as I want and only pay once....so there's that.
Care to steer me right then?
Care to steer me right then?
08-02-2020, 06:59 PM
#66
That being said, why would anyone buy more expensive parts from FCP Euro when the car is never long enough in ones possession to take advantage of their life time warranty?
Another issue I have with them (and that is my personal opinion as I care about these things) is the fact that they often label OEM parts as OE or aftermarket parts as OEM parts. An OE part is simply not an OEM part (and that nonsense the part comes off the same assembly line only comes from people who have no idea about what a manufacturer tells their suppliers about the product, I could write a white paper on that) and anyone who doesn’t get it or doesn’t care opens up issues just to save a few pennies. If the budget is that tight a Ford might be the better brand for these people then. I have no issues with saving money but saving money with the wrong parts is a problem.
Last edited by Mackhack; 08-02-2020 at 07:01 PM.
08-03-2020, 12:26 AM
#67
Lets get back on the topic.
This might be of interest for some here who truly care about this mess:
In the 211 and 219 class platform up to code 806 both fuel pumps are getting actuated via one single relay (as we all know by now). One of the two fuel pumps is only there to pre-fill the fuel feeder bowl.
The reason for the change explained:
As of code 806 (31.5.2005 - 1.6.2006) the second fuel pump is getting actuated by a second relay (also as we all know by now). The ME is programmed to only turn on the second pump if the primary pump's fuel delivery rate is insufficient. This is done to accomplish that the fuel doesn't get heated up unnecessarily through the pump's internal dissipation power.
The updated cable harness is connected to plug 4 pin 36 (36 is the primary pump in the single relay (K27/1) as well as the double relay harness) and pin 27 (secondary fuel pump relay K27/2).
This might be of interest for some here who truly care about this mess:
In the 211 and 219 class platform up to code 806 both fuel pumps are getting actuated via one single relay (as we all know by now). One of the two fuel pumps is only there to pre-fill the fuel feeder bowl.
The reason for the change explained:
As of code 806 (31.5.2005 - 1.6.2006) the second fuel pump is getting actuated by a second relay (also as we all know by now). The ME is programmed to only turn on the second pump if the primary pump's fuel delivery rate is insufficient. This is done to accomplish that the fuel doesn't get heated up unnecessarily through the pump's internal dissipation power.
The updated cable harness is connected to plug 4 pin 36 (36 is the primary pump in the single relay (K27/1) as well as the double relay harness) and pin 27 (secondary fuel pump relay K27/2).
The following users liked this post:
bbirdwell (08-03-2020)
08-03-2020, 03:36 PM
#69
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Lets get back on the topic.
This might be of interest for some here who truly care about this mess:
In the 211 and 219 class platform up to code 806 both fuel pumps are getting actuated via one single relay (as we all know by now). One of the two fuel pumps is only there to pre-fill the fuel feeder bowl.
The reason for the change explained:
As of code 806 (31.5.2005 - 1.6.2006) the second fuel pump is getting actuated by a second relay (also as we all know by now). The ME is programmed to only turn on the second pump if the primary pump's fuel delivery rate is insufficient. This is done to accomplish that the fuel doesn't get heated up unnecessarily through the pump's internal dissipation power.
The updated cable harness is connected to plug 4 pin 36 (36 is the primary pump in the single relay (K27/1) as well as the double relay harness) and pin 27 (secondary fuel pump relay K27/2).
This might be of interest for some here who truly care about this mess:
In the 211 and 219 class platform up to code 806 both fuel pumps are getting actuated via one single relay (as we all know by now). One of the two fuel pumps is only there to pre-fill the fuel feeder bowl.
The reason for the change explained:
As of code 806 (31.5.2005 - 1.6.2006) the second fuel pump is getting actuated by a second relay (also as we all know by now). The ME is programmed to only turn on the second pump if the primary pump's fuel delivery rate is insufficient. This is done to accomplish that the fuel doesn't get heated up unnecessarily through the pump's internal dissipation power.
The updated cable harness is connected to plug 4 pin 36 (36 is the primary pump in the single relay (K27/1) as well as the double relay harness) and pin 27 (secondary fuel pump relay K27/2).
08-03-2020, 03:53 PM
#70
08-03-2020, 05:20 PM
#71
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
Their warranty counts on people who don’t keep their car until that part is worn down our out and send it back for a free replacement. Americans in general(!!!, not all of course, just to avoid the stereotype) don’t keep any car for long (or long enough that the part would wear or break) and therefore the warranty is void as soon as the car has a new owner. FCP is/was never cheaper than dealerships that sell online.
That being said, why would anyone buy more expensive parts from FCP Euro when the car is never long enough in ones possession to take advantage of their life time warranty?
Another issue I have with them (and that is my personal opinion as I care about these things) is the fact that they often label OEM parts as OE or aftermarket parts as OEM parts. An OE part is simply not an OEM part (and that nonsense the part comes off the same assembly line only comes from people who have no idea about what a manufacturer tells their suppliers about the product, I could write a white paper on that) and anyone who doesn’t get it or doesn’t care opens up issues just to save a few pennies. If the budget is that tight a Ford might be the better brand for these people then. I have no issues with saving money but saving money with the wrong parts is a problem.
That being said, why would anyone buy more expensive parts from FCP Euro when the car is never long enough in ones possession to take advantage of their life time warranty?
Another issue I have with them (and that is my personal opinion as I care about these things) is the fact that they often label OEM parts as OE or aftermarket parts as OEM parts. An OE part is simply not an OEM part (and that nonsense the part comes off the same assembly line only comes from people who have no idea about what a manufacturer tells their suppliers about the product, I could write a white paper on that) and anyone who doesn’t get it or doesn’t care opens up issues just to save a few pennies. If the budget is that tight a Ford might be the better brand for these people then. I have no issues with saving money but saving money with the wrong parts is a problem.
Yes of course the warranty counts on people getting rid of the cars. That doesn't make the warranty a scam. In fact it explains why they can offer it - most people don't invoke it.
Also I have no trouble believing that they sell OEM Mercedes parts. They scratch out the part number due to....licensing? The best argument you could have is that they are like 2nd tier rejected parts that would otherwise get thrown away. I doubt that's the case - I've never heard of anyone getting a "bad/knockoff Mercedes part" from them. That's because that's not what they sell.
Anyway, all that side, you didn't answer my question which was, if that kit was a bad deal (and/or incomplete) where should I be looking instead? It's not at all clear to me what I need to do to my 04 to make it fully happy with the updated pumps without burning my car down....kind of important.
08-03-2020, 05:45 PM
#72
Thanks for the wall of text?
Yes of course the warranty counts on people getting rid of the cars. That doesn't make the warranty a scam. In fact it explains why they can offer it - most people don't invoke it.
Also I have no trouble believing that they sell OEM Mercedes parts. They scratch out the part number due to....licensing? The best argument you could have is that they are like 2nd tier rejected parts that would otherwise get thrown away. I doubt that's the case - I've never heard of anyone getting a "bad/knockoff Mercedes part" from them. That's because that's not what they sell.
Anyway, all that side, you didn't answer my question which was, if that kit was a bad deal (and/or incomplete) where should I be looking instead? It's not at all clear to me what I need to do to my 04 to make it fully happy with the updated pumps without burning my car down....kind of important.
Yes of course the warranty counts on people getting rid of the cars. That doesn't make the warranty a scam. In fact it explains why they can offer it - most people don't invoke it.
Also I have no trouble believing that they sell OEM Mercedes parts. They scratch out the part number due to....licensing? The best argument you could have is that they are like 2nd tier rejected parts that would otherwise get thrown away. I doubt that's the case - I've never heard of anyone getting a "bad/knockoff Mercedes part" from them. That's because that's not what they sell.
Anyway, all that side, you didn't answer my question which was, if that kit was a bad deal (and/or incomplete) where should I be looking instead? It's not at all clear to me what I need to do to my 04 to make it fully happy with the updated pumps without burning my car down....kind of important.
Your 04 if you go with the new style pump requires additional parts (that’s why we discuss this here over and over).
That being said, go ahead and buy the kit from them then go and buy the additional parts that would be sold to you at the dealership’s parts counter like the harness I keep talking about, the adapters for both sides, small parts, etc. pp.
I hope that clarifies it. If not let me know.
08-06-2020, 02:51 PM
#73
Lets get back on the topic.
This might be of interest for some here who truly care about this mess:
In the 211 and 219 class platform up to code 806 both fuel pumps are getting actuated via one single relay (as we all know by now). One of the two fuel pumps is only there to pre-fill the fuel feeder bowl.
The reason for the change explained:
As of code 806 (31.5.2005 - 1.6.2006) the second fuel pump is getting actuated by a second relay (also as we all know by now). The ME is programmed to only turn on the second pump if the primary pump's fuel delivery rate is insufficient. This is done to accomplish that the fuel doesn't get heated up unnecessarily through the pump's internal dissipation power.
The updated cable harness is connected to plug 4 pin 36 (36 is the primary pump in the single relay (K27/1) as well as the double relay harness) and pin 27 (secondary fuel pump relay K27/2).
This might be of interest for some here who truly care about this mess:
In the 211 and 219 class platform up to code 806 both fuel pumps are getting actuated via one single relay (as we all know by now). One of the two fuel pumps is only there to pre-fill the fuel feeder bowl.
The reason for the change explained:
As of code 806 (31.5.2005 - 1.6.2006) the second fuel pump is getting actuated by a second relay (also as we all know by now). The ME is programmed to only turn on the second pump if the primary pump's fuel delivery rate is insufficient. This is done to accomplish that the fuel doesn't get heated up unnecessarily through the pump's internal dissipation power.
The updated cable harness is connected to plug 4 pin 36 (36 is the primary pump in the single relay (K27/1) as well as the double relay harness) and pin 27 (secondary fuel pump relay K27/2).
Out of curiosity do you know how the ECU determines when the primary pump's delivery rate is insufficient? Were other components added for code 806 to make that possible?
08-06-2020, 11:19 PM
#74
Super Member
08-06-2020, 11:30 PM
#75
RPM sensor on the output side is used to determine the need for it. The E55 uses the gasoline to cool down the pistons and inner walls of the cylinders, therefore it’s important to have a) enough gas coming in and b) as cool as possible. A side effect of cooler gasoline is that it burns cleaner and has more Corbin molecules which is the actual “fuel” that burns. The engine gets really rich the faster the engine goes, that’s why the back is always dirty with soot.
