OK need advice and help P0106 and hiccup, reward again offered
#26
Super Member
Thread Starter
#27
Super Member
I think he means you need to go into STAR and run the throttle body re-adapt procedure. Also I believe people up the idle by 50RPM which is meant to help.
#28
#30
Super Member
Thread Starter
#32
Super Member
Thread Starter
Its a great video an id love to try it but i dont have a star yet unfortuately but ill be getting one soon. As for the idle ive already had it raised long ago anyway mine idles in gear round 600 an in park bout 700. I havent gotten any codes for a while but like i said it only happens on freeway at 70 to 80mph
#33
Member
I had the same problem if you remember in the last thread. I redid all my gaskets too and am 100% sure there are no leaks but I got the code and hiccup 15 minutes into my first drive. Ditched the 82 and im waiting to make an adaptor plate for my 80mm.
#36
Don"t bro,there's many ways to go about this before the ditch..
your plate values all over the place(park,drive,and idle.
.What year is the e55 and have you done a proper smoke test with a high pressure machine?
#38
I have seen this P0106 come up with a bad pressure sensor/cold solder joint inside the ME engine control unit which measures the outside air pressure for calculations. Has anyone taken their ME out and taken in for a check and possible repair?
#39
106 code can be triggered by intake leaks.I suggest a smoke test yearly if you drive the car hard.
#40
Super Member
Thread Starter
yeah im still tracing and and searching no leaks detected no codes and only happens sometimes usually under certain conditions on the freeway. Last 2 times on freeway did not happen ... but only thing i did different was use cruise so confused lol
#41
I didn’t doubt any of you guys many suggestions including a vacuum leak from modding the engines. I have added a potential reason with fix. In that case it wasn’t a leak, it wasn’t a bad MAP sensor on the intercooler. It was the atmospheric pressure sensor on the ME PCB that caused P0106 to be stored as a fault.
If you have no leak because you did an amazing job putting your Kompressor and everything back together, why not looking into my suggestion instead of chasing a non existing leak or bad MAP sensor? Think outside the box
If you have no leak because you did an amazing job putting your Kompressor and everything back together, why not looking into my suggestion instead of chasing a non existing leak or bad MAP sensor? Think outside the box
Last edited by Mackhack; 11-26-2017 at 01:50 PM.
#42
Super Member
Thread Starter
I didn’t doubt any of you guys many suggestions including a vacuum leak from modding the engines. I have added a potential reason with fix. In that case it wasn’t a leak, it wasn’t a bad MAP sensor on the intercooler. It was the atmospheric pressure sensor on the ME PCB that caused P0106 to be stored as a fault.
If you have no leak because you did an amazing job putting your Kompressor and everything back together, why not looking into my suggestion instead of chasing a non existing leak or bad MAP sensor? Think outside the box
If you have no leak because you did an amazing job putting your Kompressor and everything back together, why not looking into my suggestion instead of chasing a non existing leak or bad MAP sensor? Think outside the box
#44
Super Member
Thread Starter
i have my tuner looking into it right now as well if he cant figure it out ill have to like you say think out of the box an this will be one of the first things i try haha. Thank you for a very good thought.
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Mackhack (11-26-2017)
#45
#46
not sure if you have seen this video ,, but if you have not it seems applicable
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Em-cLILltrE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Em-cLILltrE
Was he talking about shutting the bypass closed valve closed on the video ?If you do that you’ll have higher iat issues and tune will be off.You might even increase psi and have chances of the car leaning out .I wouldn’t advice that at all .
#47
Super Member
Thread Starter
Im actually looking at a possible solution to my problem. My adapter plate is welded on an im wondering if after its warmed up it has a slight warp that opens up when hot but not when shut down ..... to see if this works i decided to make my own thicker gasket. So installed it an noticed it does idle better, smoother, an so far only taken 2 trips no hiccup sooooo mine still may have been a vaccum leak thing that only reared its head when hot. But time will tell i ordered 3 of the stock metal coated gaskets an im gunna rtv them together an install as well. Ill keep everyone informed as i know
#50
VRP sells overpriced repackaged crap. But back to topic.
I didn’t trust my own adapter plate either and what I did was RTV on the plate, the metal gasket on RTV, then a second layer of RTV on the gasket. I basically sandwiched it in. And I’m using MB’s RTV in case someone needs the part number.
I didn’t trust my own adapter plate either and what I did was RTV on the plate, the metal gasket on RTV, then a second layer of RTV on the gasket. I basically sandwiched it in. And I’m using MB’s RTV in case someone needs the part number.
Last edited by Mackhack; 12-02-2017 at 02:40 PM. Reason: Typos