Help, Vids of WOT Problem: From a 20-25 roll. See attached vids.
#1
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Help, Vids of WOT Problem @ 5k rpm. Falls on its face.
UPDATE THIS HAPPENS AT 5000 rpm no matter what gear or speed.
2004 e55 550cc injectors 77mm pulley and RACE IQ tune and recently installed fabtech intake. Searched around and need help guys. This happens only at WOT. Drives and shifts totally normal otherwise long as you don’t give it WOT. What happens is it falls on its face at 5000 rpm no matter what gear. Is this a conductor plate issue or something else? I’ve scanned it using my icarsoft MB V1.0 and not getting any codes. In the vid I’ve put it in manual mode just so you can see what gear it’s in....It does the same thing on comfort or sport modes. Hopefully someone with same experience can shed some light. Thanks guys.
2004 e55 550cc injectors 77mm pulley and RACE IQ tune and recently installed fabtech intake. Searched around and need help guys. This happens only at WOT. Drives and shifts totally normal otherwise long as you don’t give it WOT. What happens is it falls on its face at 5000 rpm no matter what gear. Is this a conductor plate issue or something else? I’ve scanned it using my icarsoft MB V1.0 and not getting any codes. In the vid I’ve put it in manual mode just so you can see what gear it’s in....It does the same thing on comfort or sport modes. Hopefully someone with same experience can shed some light. Thanks guys.
Last edited by MUSTANGRIDAH; 08-14-2018 at 12:24 AM. Reason: Updating issue
#3
This looks very similar if not the same, to what I was experiencing. I changed the electrical connector (was leaking) and topped off the ATF. Good to go. It's easy, is probably leaking anyway, and cheap.
#4
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Great I’ll go under the car tomorrow and take a look and report my findings tomorrow. Thanks man.
#5
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
Simple test, just pull the plug and see if it's dry.
Careful when you replace it to not over torque the little screw because it will break the conductor plate and then you have to dick around with that.
Careful when you replace it to not over torque the little screw because it will break the conductor plate and then you have to dick around with that.
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Last edited by MUSTANGRIDAH; 08-06-2018 at 05:50 PM.
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#8
They "can" be wet and even wick up to the TCU. But mine was dry on the outside and it wasn't until I pulled the plug did I notice the o-rings were leaking.
#9
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Last edited by MUSTANGRIDAH; 08-06-2018 at 09:28 PM.
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#12
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2003 e55, 2006 e500 4matic wagon
Any update on this issue? My 03 e55 does the exact same thing at WOT, SC cuts out right at 5000 RPMs. If I keep my foot in it, it will shift into the next gear a few seconds later and reengage the supercharger. It does this on WOT downshifts also.The connector was said to be replaced by the previous owner as well as the transmission filter at that time. My pump is working and has no air in the system. I also occasionally get an ESP warning when this happens, which goes away after a key cycle. Nothing changes in dyno mode either.
#13
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UPDATE
OK so I changed the electrical connector topped off whatever fluid that I lost when I drained and mine is doing the exact same thing as yours it literally cuts off at 5000 RPM but the RPMs continue to rise but it doesn’t matter what gear you’re in as soon as it hits 5000 RPM that’s when this crap starts happening It just falls on its face. I know there’s many others who have probably had this issue so hopefully one of you guys who have had this issue will chime in I’m going to speak to Anthony over at race IQ see what he thinks. I’m also picking up the new 010 pump today. Another problem I’m having is my IAT are significantly higher than ambient temperatures. My mods are 77mm 550cc injectors race I Q tune and a fab tech intake.
Any update on this issue? My 03 e55 does the exact same thing at WOT, SC cuts out right at 5000 RPMs. If I keep my foot in it, it will shift into the next gear a few seconds later and reengage the supercharger. It does this on WOT downshifts also.The connector was said to be replaced by the previous owner as well as the transmission filter at that time. My pump is working and has no air in the system. I also occasionally get an ESP warning when this happens, which goes away after a key cycle. Nothing changes in dyno mode either.
Last edited by MUSTANGRIDAH; 08-13-2018 at 04:29 PM.
#14
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OK so I changed the electrical connector topped off whatever fluid that I lost when I drained and mine is doing the exact same thing as yours it literally cuts off at 5000 RPM but the RPMs continue to rise but it doesn’t matter what gear you’re in as soon as it hits 5000 RPM that’s when this crap starts happening It just falls on its face. I know there’s many others who have probably had this issue so hopefully one of you guys who have had this issue will chime in I’m going to speak to Anthony over at race IQ see what he thinks. I’m also picking up the new 010 pump today. Another problem I’m having is my IAT are significantly higher than ambient temperatures. My mods are 77mm 550cc injectors race I Q tune and a fab tech intake.
#15
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Check the transmission fluid level (dipsticks are real cheap on ebay and Amazon, if you need one). I have seen low fluid cause similar problems on multiple occasions. Definitely disconnect the transmission connector and check for oil inside (just rotate the yellow collar counter-clockwise about 45 degrees and it will slide right out). I doubt this is the issue, but it's definitely worth checking from time to time, even if there's nothing wrong. If there's any fluid in there, replace the pilot bushing and check for fluid in the connector at the TCU. If there's no fluid at the TCU, you should be ok to just clean out the connector really well with electrical contact cleaner.
#16
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#17
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Check the transmission fluid level (dipsticks are real cheap on ebay and Amazon, if you need one). I have seen low fluid cause similar problems on multiple occasions. Definitely disconnect the transmission connector and check for oil inside (just rotate the yellow collar counter-clockwise about 45 degrees and it will slide right out). I doubt this is the issue, but it's definitely worth checking from time to time, even if there's nothing wrong. If there's any fluid in there, replace the pilot bushing and check for fluid in the connector at the TCU. If there's no fluid at the TCU, you should be ok to just clean out the connector really well with electrical contact cleaner.
Last edited by MUSTANGRIDAH; 08-13-2018 at 11:28 PM.
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#20
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Is there a way to edit the original title of this thread I started? The whole 20-25mph is irrelevant as it does this in any gear as long as it hits 5000 RPM @WOT.
Last edited by MUSTANGRIDAH; 08-14-2018 at 06:41 PM.
#21
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This is a long shot, but I keep thinking crank position sensor. I have never heard of one failing in this way, but your problem is so rpm specific. It's running out of something. Sorry I don't have any better ideas.
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#23
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Is it possibly the torque limiting programming in the tcu. Can you try it somewhere with minimal traction? Or with more traction. Whatever it is, it sounds like the computers are doing it on purpose. The question is ...why? Forget about the cps unless it's original and should be replaced anyway.
#24
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Have you checked to make sure the fuel warranty work was done properly? There is an adapter harness needed to reverse polarity of one of the fuel pumps. Mine was not done correctly and I was running off of one pump only. If you look under the rear seat on passenger side there is a cover. Unscrew it and see if there is a 6" adapter harness.
#25
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Is it possibly the torque limiting programming in the tcu. Can you try it somewhere with minimal traction? Or with more traction. Whatever it is, it sounds like the computers are doing it on purpose. The question is ...why? Forget about the cps unless it's original and should be replaced anyway.