Want to pull the trigger on 2007 E63 but need your help
08-25-2018, 09:12 AM
#51
MBWorld Fanatic!
I disagree with avoiding air suspension. The suspension in my car is excellent an it lasted 12 years an 130 thousand miles untouched. For a few k I can do that all over again if I replace everything at once. Worth the price of admission!
It's when you fix it as it breaks a little bit at a time that you start to hate it. Just know what it costs to drive a car at this level, and decide if it's worth it. It is.
It's when you fix it as it breaks a little bit at a time that you start to hate it. Just know what it costs to drive a car at this level, and decide if it's worth it. It is.
08-25-2018, 03:13 PM
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
I don't totally agree with it article either. This was just something that I came across, and thought to post. My airmatic suspension has been faultless over the years, and I personally wouldn't go to a steel coil spring suspension.
I enjoy a nice plush land yaught type of ride.
I enjoy a nice plush land yaught type of ride.
08-25-2018, 03:20 PM
#53
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
The only reason I avoid airmatic is due to the replacement cost and also when it goes, you're kinda stuck literally as the car will be sitting on the ground and you won't be able to drive it til it gets fixed. I suppose in theory, you could just replace it in advance, but people report them going out anywhere between 80-130 or more so it's a tough choice, pay early when it might last for a lot longer or just hope that it just doesn't fail on you one day when you really need it.
08-25-2018, 04:06 PM
#54
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2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
The only reason I avoid airmatic is due to the replacement cost and also when it goes, you're kinda stuck literally as the car will be sitting on the ground and you won't be able to drive it til it gets fixed. I suppose in theory, you could just replace it in advance, but people report them going out anywhere between 80-130 or more so it's a tough choice, pay early when it might last for a lot longer or just hope that it just doesn't fail on you one day when you really need it.
If it was a daily driver I'd heavily consider going to coil overs so it would be one less thing to worry about.
08-25-2018, 04:33 PM
#55
MBWorld Fanatic!
My E63 is a daily driver, and I have no fears of the suspension failing. If it does, I will get it fixed, and I'll drive my 2015 BMW X5 in the meantime.
08-28-2018, 01:18 AM
#56
Member
So far my issues on my 07 E63 have been:
probably will have to change the rotors soon but I will go with the c63 rotors and save myself 1000 dollars.
all in all I'm happy with my e63.
- Oil dip stick handle broke.
- Oil cap cracked
- Replaced battery it was 11 years old.
- Replaced thermostat
- Leaking radiator hoses
probably will have to change the rotors soon but I will go with the c63 rotors and save myself 1000 dollars.
all in all I'm happy with my e63.
08-28-2018, 09:48 AM
#57
MBWorld Fanatic!
I picked up a complete brake kit, for under $1000 after shopping around. Picked up the front two piece rotors off of eBay for $800, bought rear rotors from RockAuto and pads from AutohausAZ.
So it can be done. I also just replaced my 11yr old battery just last month. Replaced dip stick handle and tube last year, as there was a bulletin about it.
So it can be done. I also just replaced my 11yr old battery just last month. Replaced dip stick handle and tube last year, as there was a bulletin about it.
05-25-2020, 11:13 AM
#58
I have to admit the initial draw for me was the 6.3L AMG hand made engine of this model compared to all other offerings! That plus the overal look and especially those beautiful front (i.e.-Round!!!) headlights along with the panorama black glass roof and the fact that it could be had in the color I was looking for (white/tan) for 17k! Even though it took a month for the seller (the Head Salesman for an Exotic Car dealership) to get his Title and unbeknownst to me he put 2500mi on it before he dropped it off at the body shop as agreed coupled with the fact that I set foot in it first time after the body work was done (to correct a big smiley face gouge from mirror to mirror on the hood) only to find the idle was running higher towards 1200 rpm as it warmed up, I'm still a proud owner of this fine piece of Mercedes history!!!
I literally drove it home and started taking it apart as the idle issue had to be in the Intake Manifold. I ended up having RMT in Pomano, Fl. rebuild it wonderfully and while that was being done I started on the front suspension as during the month I was waiting for the title to clear, I was ordering parts for the front end! When the Intake was off however, I could clearly see that the runners were caked with carbon! After pitching round the idea to media blast it clean and the mess it would make along with the extra equipment needed, I decided instead to remove both Heads since the Headbold issue was weighing heavy in my mind. I had both rebuilt by the best guys in my area I could find (i.e.-Extreme Heads) in Palm City, Fl. and they found that 8 of 16 Intake Valves were bent! I never would have known if I didn't go that route and I'm happy I did! They have the finest equipment for seating Valves plus other Hi-Tech that enables them to cut cylinder heads from scratch via CAD, to say their work was above par would a huge understatement!!
To do the job, it required me to buy some specific tools to remove the pins affixing the heads to the case as well as the Cam Alignment tools, but in the end it was well worth it!!! I also ended up renewing the HP power steering hose and Pump too as the pump pulley was in bad shape! The hose I bought but ended up sending back as it was simply not the same??? So I found a hose repair place, one of those old school warehouse type bastions that has every conceivable part to fix any hose you can think of. Well they actually did a great job upgrading the hose but I had to take it back since one of the hoses was a 1/4 too short but they gladly corrected it for me!
After rebuilding the front end while my heads were being rebuilt, I went to RMT and picked up my Intake as well as two front Air Struts. They showed me the Throttle Plenum riddled with holes and they installed their beefy replacement as well as had corrected several hoses and a broken hose fitting in the Manifold itself! I had taken both of my front Struts off to turn in for credit but since one of them was an Arnott, (by merely mentioning this, I apologize if they chime-in hereafter!!) they could only accept the OEM since the version of Arnott that was on there did not have that extra cartridge that corrects instantly for bumps as well as stiffens the suspension when one pushes the button by the shift rod. I'm still very happy with that decision as that function at speed is very cool,indeed!!! I also added a Oil Catch Can as well. When the Heads were done, I prepped them up with new SLS black Valve tappets and begun the five step process of tightening the Headbolts! I recommend anyone attempting this to have a diagram of all 10 Headbolts (per Head) and mark each every time you Torque down each bolt!! Even the slightest distraction could have you wondering if you missed a bolt!!!
What I wasn't expecting was to find that both passenger side cam Adjusters were not only installed on the wrong Cams but one of them had been taken apart with the middle piece, which the Cam bolt goes through, installed backwards!! It was only upon install that I discovered this because when I unbolted the Cam Bolts I didn't pay as close attention to their position if you will. With the mid part installed backwards it meant that the Adjuster was not able to seat up against the end of the Cam which meant that a gap existed between the diamond washer that otherwise would mate to both the Cam and the Adjuster. In effect, this not only brought the teeth of the Adjuster catistrophically close to the Cam gear edge but also closed off the oil flow through the Adjuster negating the sensors ability to control oil flow in the Adjuster!! Unbelievably, this meant the Adjuster would have wobbled if not for the teeth of it being interlocked/supported below with the Cam gear below! I couldn't believe how many miles the car must have run with this so precariously out of whack!!
That said, she has been unleashed and has performed beautifully for 7k miles! That is, until now after having developed a Rear Main Seal leak. So she's back up high on jack stands awaiting for me to drop the Tranny, but not before I remove the Valve Body and clean that up. Then it's on to the the rear Subframe Bushings and differential Bushings since I have the entire exhaust off the car now. I've Got all new bolts required, essential as most are one time use! I even got new Tranny shifter rod Bushings! I'll also renew the flex discs and mid drive shaft bearing, rear hubs, flanges, rotors brakes and swap in UPD Rear Toe Arms! I also got a deal on new headlights that I'll treat first with protective UV sheathing. Can't wait to get her back on the road!!
I literally drove it home and started taking it apart as the idle issue had to be in the Intake Manifold. I ended up having RMT in Pomano, Fl. rebuild it wonderfully and while that was being done I started on the front suspension as during the month I was waiting for the title to clear, I was ordering parts for the front end! When the Intake was off however, I could clearly see that the runners were caked with carbon! After pitching round the idea to media blast it clean and the mess it would make along with the extra equipment needed, I decided instead to remove both Heads since the Headbold issue was weighing heavy in my mind. I had both rebuilt by the best guys in my area I could find (i.e.-Extreme Heads) in Palm City, Fl. and they found that 8 of 16 Intake Valves were bent! I never would have known if I didn't go that route and I'm happy I did! They have the finest equipment for seating Valves plus other Hi-Tech that enables them to cut cylinder heads from scratch via CAD, to say their work was above par would a huge understatement!!
To do the job, it required me to buy some specific tools to remove the pins affixing the heads to the case as well as the Cam Alignment tools, but in the end it was well worth it!!! I also ended up renewing the HP power steering hose and Pump too as the pump pulley was in bad shape! The hose I bought but ended up sending back as it was simply not the same??? So I found a hose repair place, one of those old school warehouse type bastions that has every conceivable part to fix any hose you can think of. Well they actually did a great job upgrading the hose but I had to take it back since one of the hoses was a 1/4 too short but they gladly corrected it for me!
After rebuilding the front end while my heads were being rebuilt, I went to RMT and picked up my Intake as well as two front Air Struts. They showed me the Throttle Plenum riddled with holes and they installed their beefy replacement as well as had corrected several hoses and a broken hose fitting in the Manifold itself! I had taken both of my front Struts off to turn in for credit but since one of them was an Arnott, (by merely mentioning this, I apologize if they chime-in hereafter!!) they could only accept the OEM since the version of Arnott that was on there did not have that extra cartridge that corrects instantly for bumps as well as stiffens the suspension when one pushes the button by the shift rod. I'm still very happy with that decision as that function at speed is very cool,indeed!!! I also added a Oil Catch Can as well. When the Heads were done, I prepped them up with new SLS black Valve tappets and begun the five step process of tightening the Headbolts! I recommend anyone attempting this to have a diagram of all 10 Headbolts (per Head) and mark each every time you Torque down each bolt!! Even the slightest distraction could have you wondering if you missed a bolt!!!
What I wasn't expecting was to find that both passenger side cam Adjusters were not only installed on the wrong Cams but one of them had been taken apart with the middle piece, which the Cam bolt goes through, installed backwards!! It was only upon install that I discovered this because when I unbolted the Cam Bolts I didn't pay as close attention to their position if you will. With the mid part installed backwards it meant that the Adjuster was not able to seat up against the end of the Cam which meant that a gap existed between the diamond washer that otherwise would mate to both the Cam and the Adjuster. In effect, this not only brought the teeth of the Adjuster catistrophically close to the Cam gear edge but also closed off the oil flow through the Adjuster negating the sensors ability to control oil flow in the Adjuster!! Unbelievably, this meant the Adjuster would have wobbled if not for the teeth of it being interlocked/supported below with the Cam gear below! I couldn't believe how many miles the car must have run with this so precariously out of whack!!
That said, she has been unleashed and has performed beautifully for 7k miles! That is, until now after having developed a Rear Main Seal leak. So she's back up high on jack stands awaiting for me to drop the Tranny, but not before I remove the Valve Body and clean that up. Then it's on to the the rear Subframe Bushings and differential Bushings since I have the entire exhaust off the car now. I've Got all new bolts required, essential as most are one time use! I even got new Tranny shifter rod Bushings! I'll also renew the flex discs and mid drive shaft bearing, rear hubs, flanges, rotors brakes and swap in UPD Rear Toe Arms! I also got a deal on new headlights that I'll treat first with protective UV sheathing. Can't wait to get her back on the road!!
Last edited by E63007; 01-31-2021 at 06:46 PM.
