Breaking power
#1
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Breaking power
You guys ever had to fully break to avoid an accident? Is it just me or does that car stop like it hit a brick wall when full on breaking.
was on the highway going 85 and turning to high speed lane and some dude flies by in his Honda before I turned and i has to fully slam my breaks to avoid the family in front of me. This car saved me from literally death.
I know this is a heavily talked about topic, but what are your choices of break pads?
was on the highway going 85 and turning to high speed lane and some dude flies by in his Honda before I turned and i has to fully slam my breaks to avoid the family in front of me. This car saved me from literally death.
I know this is a heavily talked about topic, but what are your choices of break pads?
#2
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Spelling and use of the correct word is important. When in doubt use a dictionary.
As is proper grammar. Example:
- A sloth eats shoots and leaves.
- A gunfighter eats, shoots, and leaves. (Yes, I do use the Oxford comma.)
Selection of brake pads you should research. Some prefer dust-free. I prefer initial bite, stopping power, and fade resistance. So my choices usually are dusty, chew through the rotors, and the pads do not last as long. What others like may be nothing like what you would prefer. Sometimes you just have to purchase two or three sets, try them, stick with the one you like, and sell the other sets as used.
Temperature range is important. Street pads will begin to fade somewhere around 450-800 degrees F. Maybe okay for an autocross event and light canyon carving. They are effective, however, at room temperature, e.g. they have an initial bite around 100 degrees. Track pads may have an effective temperature range of 300 to 1400 degrees F; you don't want those on the street. The first couple of stops for the day are very interesting as the pads do not begin to "bite" until they warm up to 300 F. I know this by experience.
Centric website can give you a rough idea using their charts:
http://www.centricparts.com/products/brake-friction
I'm using the Posi-Quiet Semi-Metallic on both of the E55s. Somewhat dusty but I like the initial bite and feel.
Hawk products site info for street compounds:
http://www.hawkperformance.com/stree...nd-application
(FWIW, I prefered the Code R or Code N on my turbo'd Miata; 2220 pounds and 275 rwhp)
Take my criticism as constructive. I didn't learn the proper use of an apostrophe until I was 27 years old (don't even get me started about a former boss who *hated* dangling participles). So long as I understand what you are trying to say, all is good. Having said that, however, if you wish to rise up the management food chain, you must learn proper spelling and grammar (or have an administrative assistant who can check everything you write).
Search. The internet is filled with informative articles on brake pad formulations.
As is proper grammar. Example:
- A sloth eats shoots and leaves.
- A gunfighter eats, shoots, and leaves. (Yes, I do use the Oxford comma.)
Selection of brake pads you should research. Some prefer dust-free. I prefer initial bite, stopping power, and fade resistance. So my choices usually are dusty, chew through the rotors, and the pads do not last as long. What others like may be nothing like what you would prefer. Sometimes you just have to purchase two or three sets, try them, stick with the one you like, and sell the other sets as used.
Temperature range is important. Street pads will begin to fade somewhere around 450-800 degrees F. Maybe okay for an autocross event and light canyon carving. They are effective, however, at room temperature, e.g. they have an initial bite around 100 degrees. Track pads may have an effective temperature range of 300 to 1400 degrees F; you don't want those on the street. The first couple of stops for the day are very interesting as the pads do not begin to "bite" until they warm up to 300 F. I know this by experience.
Centric website can give you a rough idea using their charts:
http://www.centricparts.com/products/brake-friction
I'm using the Posi-Quiet Semi-Metallic on both of the E55s. Somewhat dusty but I like the initial bite and feel.
Hawk products site info for street compounds:
http://www.hawkperformance.com/stree...nd-application
(FWIW, I prefered the Code R or Code N on my turbo'd Miata; 2220 pounds and 275 rwhp)
Take my criticism as constructive. I didn't learn the proper use of an apostrophe until I was 27 years old (don't even get me started about a former boss who *hated* dangling participles). So long as I understand what you are trying to say, all is good. Having said that, however, if you wish to rise up the management food chain, you must learn proper spelling and grammar (or have an administrative assistant who can check everything you write).
Search. The internet is filled with informative articles on brake pad formulations.
Last edited by bbirdwell; 09-03-2018 at 03:23 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by bbirdwell:
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thanks heaps for the brake break lesson, saved me from doing it, it is very annoying and more and more people seem to want to break there car while stopping these days.
I plan on getting akebono pads when I next change. Dust is very frustrating.
I plan on getting akebono pads when I next change. Dust is very frustrating.
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
From what I’ve read on this forum over the past year, the most important thing about E55 brakes by far is that your SBC unit is in good shape. No matter how amazing your rotors or pads are, they can’t help you much when the SBC fails.
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Class is in session today
#7
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Trending Topics
#8
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Thread Starter
Spelling and use of the correct word is important. When in doubt use a dictionary.
As is proper grammar. Example:
- A sloth eats shoots and leaves.
- A gunfighter eats, shoots, and leaves. (Yes, I do use the Oxford comma.)
Selection of brake pads you should research. Some prefer dust-free. I prefer initial bite, stopping power, and fade resistance. So my choices usually are dusty, chew through the rotors, and the pads do not last as long. What others like may be nothing like what you would prefer. Sometimes you just have to purchase two or three sets, try them, stick with the one you like, and sell the other sets as used.
Temperature range is important. Street pads will begin to fade somewhere around 450-800 degrees F. Maybe okay for an autocross event and light canyon carving. They are effective, however, at room temperature, e.g. they have an initial bite around 100 degrees. Track pads may have an effective temperature range of 300 to 1400 degrees F; you don't want those on the street. The first couple of stops for the day are very interesting as the pads do not begin to "bite" until they warm up to 300 F. I know this by experience.
Centric website can give you a rough idea using their charts:
http://www.centricparts.com/products/brake-friction
I'm using the Posi-Quiet Semi-Metallic on both of the E55s. Somewhat dusty but I like the initial bite and feel.
Hawk products site info for street compounds:
http://www.hawkperformance.com/stree...nd-application
(FWIW, I prefered the Code R or Code N on my turbo'd Miata; 2220 pounds and 275 rwhp)
Take my criticism as constructive. I didn't learn the proper use of an apostrophe until I was 27 years old (don't even get me started about a former boss who *hated* dangling participles). So long as I understand what you are trying to say, all is good. Having said that, however, if you wish to rise up the management food chain, you must learn proper spelling and grammar (or have an administrative assistant who can check everything you write).
Search. The internet is filled with informative articles on brake pad formulations.
As is proper grammar. Example:
- A sloth eats shoots and leaves.
- A gunfighter eats, shoots, and leaves. (Yes, I do use the Oxford comma.)
Selection of brake pads you should research. Some prefer dust-free. I prefer initial bite, stopping power, and fade resistance. So my choices usually are dusty, chew through the rotors, and the pads do not last as long. What others like may be nothing like what you would prefer. Sometimes you just have to purchase two or three sets, try them, stick with the one you like, and sell the other sets as used.
Temperature range is important. Street pads will begin to fade somewhere around 450-800 degrees F. Maybe okay for an autocross event and light canyon carving. They are effective, however, at room temperature, e.g. they have an initial bite around 100 degrees. Track pads may have an effective temperature range of 300 to 1400 degrees F; you don't want those on the street. The first couple of stops for the day are very interesting as the pads do not begin to "bite" until they warm up to 300 F. I know this by experience.
Centric website can give you a rough idea using their charts:
http://www.centricparts.com/products/brake-friction
I'm using the Posi-Quiet Semi-Metallic on both of the E55s. Somewhat dusty but I like the initial bite and feel.
Hawk products site info for street compounds:
http://www.hawkperformance.com/stree...nd-application
(FWIW, I prefered the Code R or Code N on my turbo'd Miata; 2220 pounds and 275 rwhp)
Take my criticism as constructive. I didn't learn the proper use of an apostrophe until I was 27 years old (don't even get me started about a former boss who *hated* dangling participles). So long as I understand what you are trying to say, all is good. Having said that, however, if you wish to rise up the management food chain, you must learn proper spelling and grammar (or have an administrative assistant who can check everything you write).
Search. The internet is filled with informative articles on brake pad formulations.
#11
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W123 300CD, R107 560SL, W211 E320
I'll bet the family in front of you was really glad that you were able to panic stop from 85mph in a 60 (50, 45, 70?) mph speed zone. Braked so hard that it apparently bent your axles.
I thought you had matured a little by now. Please try to not take anyone else out with you.
I thought you had matured a little by now. Please try to not take anyone else out with you.
#14
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#15
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I'll bet the family in front of you was really glad that you were able to panic stop from 85mph in a 60 (50, 45, 70?) mph speed zone. Braked so hard that it apparently bent your axles.
I thought you had matured a little by now. Please try to not take anyone else out with you.
I thought you had matured a little by now. Please try to not take anyone else out with you.
#16
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#17
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Pear
Pair
Pare
To
Too
Two
BTW w204, I noticed the arrow on the ground was pointing opposite of the direction in which you drove your car under the portico.
You rebel, you.
Pair
Pare
To
Too
Two
BTW w204, I noticed the arrow on the ground was pointing opposite of the direction in which you drove your car under the portico.
You rebel, you.
#18
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#22
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05 E55, 98 CLK320
I had to brake hard once, I was in a scuffle with another driver, forgot to look in front of me and the whole lane had stopped. I slammed on my BREAKS and the car stopped on a dime. I did hear the other guy laughing at me from the middle lane thinking I rear ended the car. Joke's on him I didn't.
Keep in mind to always put good tires on your car, brakes don't mean **** if you can't connect. Luckily the continentals I had at the time were stickier than your moms face after a successful night out
Keep in mind to always put good tires on your car, brakes don't mean **** if you can't connect. Luckily the continentals I had at the time were stickier than your moms face after a successful night out
#25
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