New pads Squeaking BREMBO ROTORS AND PADS
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
New pads Squeaking BREMBO ROTORS AND PADS
Hope a friendly soul can help me out here I changed my front brakes Rotor and Pads Brembo all according to specs.
now when I came to the lower pads these where stick like crazy pistons slide back no problem and specially inner pads was a hazzle the 2 upper pads no problem s what so ever but ended up with remove the midter brake pad plate the one hold sown in the middle with a Torx on each side here the pads slide on even getting the new ones in damn had to use rubber hammer to slide then in what is wrong?
anyone can tell me what and why and how to fix this issue I know for a fact all pads are correct Brembo
And here is the one I talked about I had to remove upper blue arrow can the lower ones blue arrow be adjusted?
This is before all is cleaned out and replaced now and loon the inner pad totally destroyed backside . All is like new now I cleaned everything out mean seriously cleaned bit they should t be that right right or ?
I had to use a pliers to pull them out but impossible before losing the Torx on the upper slide thingy what ever is named
anyone I can't find anyone having this issue is same both side left and right and now squeak left brakes when long drive and they really are all brand new why squeak?
now when I came to the lower pads these where stick like crazy pistons slide back no problem and specially inner pads was a hazzle the 2 upper pads no problem s what so ever but ended up with remove the midter brake pad plate the one hold sown in the middle with a Torx on each side here the pads slide on even getting the new ones in damn had to use rubber hammer to slide then in what is wrong?
anyone can tell me what and why and how to fix this issue I know for a fact all pads are correct Brembo
And here is the one I talked about I had to remove upper blue arrow can the lower ones blue arrow be adjusted?
This is before all is cleaned out and replaced now and loon the inner pad totally destroyed backside . All is like new now I cleaned everything out mean seriously cleaned bit they should t be that right right or ?
I had to use a pliers to pull them out but impossible before losing the Torx on the upper slide thingy what ever is named
anyone I can't find anyone having this issue is same both side left and right and now squeak left brakes when long drive and they really are all brand new why squeak?
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
They need to slide in and out and sideways with your fingers. If you can't get things clean enough for that, you can file some metal off the edges of the pad backer plates.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
There is your issue, your calipers definitely could us some cleaning. All the gunk is binding up everything.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
As I mentioned 1 time
All is like new now I cleaned everything out mean seriously cleaned I spend like 2 cans of break cleaner and scrubbed all dirt out
All is like new now I cleaned everything out mean seriously cleaned I spend like 2 cans of break cleaner and scrubbed all dirt out
#7
Senior Member
OP mentioned in the first post (that I missed details in) that he had already cleaned everything before reassembly, but still has noise.
OP - I used this stuff on the back of my pads (the part that touches the piston, not the wear surface!).....no noises for me.
OP - I used this stuff on the back of my pads (the part that touches the piston, not the wear surface!).....no noises for me.
Last edited by FunkTron; 09-26-2018 at 06:57 PM. Reason: wrong product listed, corrected with stuff I actually bought.
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
When I performed a complete brake job on my E63 earlier this year, I used brake quiet on the back of the pads, and anti-seize on the edges of the pads where they contact the caliper.
And also on the cross-over bridge bolt and the brake pad retaining pins, as the anti-rattle shield could also contribute to your noise issue. And I'm glad to report that after 6 months, no brake squeal.
And also on the cross-over bridge bolt and the brake pad retaining pins, as the anti-rattle shield could also contribute to your noise issue. And I'm glad to report that after 6 months, no brake squeal.
#9
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careful with the orange stuff...it catches on fire if you do heavy braking.
at what point does your brakes squeak? first touch of brake pedal? anytime pad comes into contact with the rotor? even when you're not touching the brake pedal? they shouldn't squeak generally as the pin holds that springy thing which allows the pads to float a few mm. aftermarket pads can be oversized a few mm... if so they'll squeak upon any pedal movement even if not in contact with rotor.
This is the BEST product for brakes and squeaks. It's also designed to not wash away with water. Sil-Glyde, which is also marketed under other brands or logo's. This is what is REQUIRED by OEM by the best manufactures when assembling new caliper pistons and seals as it does not cause rubber seals to swell up as most other grease and oils do.
The below pictured will work as well.
at what point does your brakes squeak? first touch of brake pedal? anytime pad comes into contact with the rotor? even when you're not touching the brake pedal? they shouldn't squeak generally as the pin holds that springy thing which allows the pads to float a few mm. aftermarket pads can be oversized a few mm... if so they'll squeak upon any pedal movement even if not in contact with rotor.
This is the BEST product for brakes and squeaks. It's also designed to not wash away with water. Sil-Glyde, which is also marketed under other brands or logo's. This is what is REQUIRED by OEM by the best manufactures when assembling new caliper pistons and seals as it does not cause rubber seals to swell up as most other grease and oils do.
The below pictured will work as well.
Last edited by hachiroku; 09-25-2018 at 01:54 PM.
#11
Senior Member
are you putting the anti squeal paste on all the areas you are supposed to, including between where the hardware/clips touch the caliper? Is your hardware new, or old and worn out?
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
All items are new; rotors, pads including the brake pad retaining pins, and the anti-rattle shield. I just put three quarter size circles of brake squeal compound where the pistons would contact the pads.
I placed anti-seize on the edges of where the pads might contact the calipers. But I would recommend using the anti-squeal compound on these areas instead of anti-seize. I put anti-seize on the pins and the cross-over bridge bolt, as the pads needs to slide on the pins. But one could argue using anti-squeal on the pins, as they actually travel thru the anti-rattle shield. When it doubt lube it up, can't hurt. Also the calipers have metal contacts on the inside edges where the pads sit, lube those up as well. Run of thumb, anything that the pads make contact with in the caliper lube it up. Oh and most importantly, I use only ceramic pads not semi-metallic. Some semi-metallic will squeak no matter what you do. The only draw back, it that I lose the aggressive initial bite. But I have no brake dust.
I placed anti-seize on the edges of where the pads might contact the calipers. But I would recommend using the anti-squeal compound on these areas instead of anti-seize. I put anti-seize on the pins and the cross-over bridge bolt, as the pads needs to slide on the pins. But one could argue using anti-squeal on the pins, as they actually travel thru the anti-rattle shield. When it doubt lube it up, can't hurt. Also the calipers have metal contacts on the inside edges where the pads sit, lube those up as well. Run of thumb, anything that the pads make contact with in the caliper lube it up. Oh and most importantly, I use only ceramic pads not semi-metallic. Some semi-metallic will squeak no matter what you do. The only draw back, it that I lose the aggressive initial bite. But I have no brake dust.
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Corrosion builds up under that stainless plate, and the screw my not want to come out to clean underneath it. If you have the skills to drill out a stainless screw in aluminium and rethread it, then smack it a few times with a small hammer, drive an allen wrench into it, and twist! Otherwise file some metal off the edges of the pads.
#15
Senior Member
+2 on Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant. Pins, clips, pads (back and bottom). The CRC product dries up and looks like caulking.
Last edited by Pmarino; 09-26-2018 at 01:02 PM.
#16
Senior Member
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/brake-pad-silicone
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
It is most likely squeaking due to an inconsistency in the semi metallic pad material. Put Ceramic Akebono pads on or remove and warranty the Brembos.
#20
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next time use a product like IronX or any other product that is specialized to remove iron from wheels and paint. it'll literally melt the brake dust and leave painted surfaces perfect.
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Problem SOLVED
A million thanks everyone problem solved removed pads after consulting my local AMG tech with 27 years experience he explained so what I did was folow he's instructions removed pads that was stuck and carefully grinded the pads edges until they could slide in and out without problem is a common problem alwaus the lower pads due bad ventilation vs upper pads and NEVER grind on the material on Calipers itslef.
Ceramic pads NEVER EVER AGAIN.
Tried those on my old CLK YES THESE Are nice and dusttfree but but brake like crap ONE emergency brake and they are toast that was on a car with 218 HK I NEVER Sacrifice braking power over dust on my E55 AMG this car can brake and I use Brembo now 3 time these are top quality brakes.
thanks again everyone
#22
Senior Member
I'm very happy with meyle rotors and akibono pads. Reasonably priced, quiet, low dust and bite hard.