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Can use some help on confusing Airmatic issue diagnosis

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Can use some help on confusing Airmatic issue diagnosis

 
Old 01-02-2019, 08:51 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MSG 55G View Post


Yeah....I just sniped off the cracked end and re-clamped the hose. Didnít notice any filters, will check it out next time Iím under car.

You have p/n?

2203200069OE

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Old 01-11-2019, 07:08 PM
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Okay, now I’m frustrated...

i just spent a few hours swapping the airbags. Pulled the battery for a few minutes to reset, started the car. And the left rear is still sitting low (also causing the right rear to swag, but not nearly as much). Brand new Arnott.

Exactly what I was afraid of.

so what now? Possibility of a bad shock?
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:43 PM
  #28  
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Probably just need to recalibrate airmatic or maybe an issue wih ride height sensor? Can these things get dirty?
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by PieRat View Post
Probably just need to recalibrate airmatic or maybe an issue wih ride height sensor? Can these things get dirty?
how long is the pump supposed to run? Mine runs for about 2-3 min and the cuts off. Almost get the vibe that is thinks itís level and cuts off. Same scenario before I changed the bags.
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:52 PM
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So way it works is you get STAR and manually raise and lower each corner while measuring the ride height at each corner until it's all at spec then the car saves those heights as correct and will automatically maintain them AFAIK.
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by PieRat View Post
So way it works is you get STAR and manually raise and lower each corner while measuring the ride height at each corner until it's all at spec then the car saves those heights as correct and will automatically maintain them AFAIK.
right. But I was having this same issue before replacing the bags. And how can other people get away with replacing the bags without star?
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:55 PM
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Oh noticed your talking rear unit they share a ride height sensor between em from memory. Calibrating might still help.
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:56 PM
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Iím sure that will help. I doubt that will cure my issue.
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:58 PM
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This isnít a few mm difference. The left rear wheel is slammed. Itís getting air because it went from ďhella flushĒ to slammed, raise maybe 1Ē
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:59 PM
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How much lower is it than the other side? Most times the default calibrations are still good I think. Since there is a process to calibrate it is anticipated that some cars might exceed tolerances, kind of like how cars need to be aligned all the time the airmatic can need adjustment from time to time. Get a tape measure and go to even surface and see what the center of the wheel arc is compared to the ground
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by PieRat View Post
How much lower is it than the other side? Most times the default calibrations are still good I think. Since there is a process to calibrate it is anticipated that some cars might exceed tolerances, kind of like how cars need to be aligned all the time the airmatic can need adjustment from time to time.
the right rear fender is flush with the top of the tire. The left rear fender is flush with the top of the wheel, hiding the tire.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:07 PM
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Okay that sounds like you have a leaking air line to the airbag or leak in the um valve box unit that distrubtes the pressure from the pump to each corner.

edit to add: spray the lines and block with soapy water and fire it up. Could just take to mechanic fixing a crap line shouldnt cost much scrillas...

Last edited by PieRat; 01-11-2019 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:10 PM
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The car was fine before I did the brakes. Put the car back on the ground after the brakes and now it ****ed. Pisses me off.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by PieRat View Post
Okay that sounds like you have a leaking air line to the airbag or leak in the um valve box unit that distrubtes the pressure from the pump to each corner.

edit to add: spray the lines and block with soapy water and fire it up. Could just take to mechanic fixing a crap line shouldnt cost much scrillas...
it would have been cheaper just to do a coil over conversion at this rate. Piece of ****. $800 worth of hardware and Iím in the same boat as before.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:24 PM
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Yeah mate I did one front strut and then the other went. Here in New Zealand shipping is expensice then 15% on top plus 50 dollar import fee I wish I did coilovers too, the airmatics good for getting over speed bumps tho. I think it wont cost u much more to resolve it an airline cant cost dat much surely.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by PieRat View Post
Yeah mate I did one front strut and then the other went. Here in New Zealand shipping is expensice then 15% on top plus 50 dollar import fee I wish I did coilovers too, the airmatics good for getting over speed bumps tho. I think it wont cost u much more to resolve it an airline cant cost dat much surely.
i just donít really see it being an air line. Plus how can I test all the air line that is not visible
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:30 PM
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Well there is only the valve block, airline or electronic connection to the airbag left since the airbag is new (could be faulty but doubt it. The pump shouldnt be running for 3 minutes the air is lost somewhere. It takes my car like 10 seconds to go from low to raised suspension modes so where is all the air being pumped for 3 minutes? Probably the atmosphere...
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:14 PM
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So before I replaced the bags, I had to deflate the left rear in order for me to remove the bag. If there were a leak in the line, I feel like it would have been deflated. The car had been sitting for 5 days with the pump unplugged. Another reason why I doubt itís a line

if the shock (not the bag) weíre blown, wouldnít I have the symptoms Iím experiencing?
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:17 PM
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I'm no expert but the way I understand a shock to work is based on compression resistance. So they dont hold up much weight aka you can hand compress them but as you push them in resistance grows and it pushes back. Traditionally a spring or airbag is carrying the 500 odd kg per Corner not the shock but as I said I'm no expert just a cooked cu*nt haha
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by PieRat View Post
I'm no expert but the way I understand a shock to work is based on compression resistance. So they dont hold up much weight aka you can hand compress them but as you push them in resistance grows and it pushes back. Traditionally a spring or airbag is carrying the 500 odd kg per Corner not the shock but as I said I'm no expert just a cooked cu*nt haha
Iím assuming thatís kiwi for drunk?
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:51 PM
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Were the old bags stock? Did you cut the hoses off and left the reservoir in place? Could there be a leak at the air hose attaching to new bags?

Im no mechanic but when I changed rear bags I didnít need to Recalibrate. I left the stock reservoir tank in place with the cut off hoses still attached. Gonna remove them later.
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Old 01-12-2019, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by MSG 55G View Post
Were the old bags stock? Did you cut the hoses off and left the reservoir in place? Could there be a leak at the air hose attaching to new bags?

Im no mechanic but when I changed rear bags I didnít need to Recalibrate. I left the stock reservoir tank in place with the cut off hoses still attached. Gonna remove them later.
yes The old bags were oem. They did have the hose attached, and I just cut them off since that camp seemed to be crimped on the bag. I also left the hose and reservoir.

The stangest thing is when I cut the hose on the left side, it definitely still had air in it and this is the side I thought was shot.

Thats why why I was asking about the shock itself. I know in a traditional car, the weight of the car rests on the shock. Iím wondering if the weight of the W211 rests on the shock and the airbag assists or if itís the other way around. Because the bag holds air, just at a 30% capacity (old and new).
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Old 01-12-2019, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by zhmorrow13 View Post


yes The old bags were oem. They did have the hose attached, and I just cut them off since that camp seemed to be crimped on the bag. I also left the hose and reservoir.

The stangest thing is when I cut the hose on the left side, it definitely still had air in it and this is the side I thought was shot.

Thats why why I was asking about the shock itself. I know in a traditional car, the weight of the car rests on the shock. Iím wondering if the weight of the W211 rests on the shock and the airbag assists or if itís the other way around. Because the bag holds air, just at a 30% capacity (old and new).
Youíll have air gushing out when cutting the hose even when bag is shot.

I would check all possible installation oversights before changing shock or compressor components. Air hoes connection to nipple of bags, bags facing properly torward wheel,

you did say prior to changing bags that car would pump up when you start it right?
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Old 01-12-2019, 03:07 PM
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Yes, before changing the bags The same thing would happen. The car the raise. Left rear just doesnít get as high as it should, itís flush with the top of the wheel (stock 18ís) and the right rear is at the top of the tire. When I start the car (with old bags or new bags) I would be able to see the rear raising but it would stop once the top of the wheel is exposed, and it will hold that position.
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:39 PM
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I didn't read this whole thread, but there are only 3 height sensors. One in the rear and one on each front corner. Is the opposite side front too high?
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