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-   -   Weird problem on every morning (https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/735702-weird-problem-every-morning.html)

mAMG 02-12-2019 12:55 PM

Weird problem on every morning
 
Hello All,

Everyday in the morning, I switch the Engine on and put the gear in drive. Once the car starts moving and reaches the 2000 RPM, it drops to 1000 RPM immediately, as if I took my leg off the throttle pedal.

This happens only the 2nd gear or 3rd (Car is always on "C" mode). Once the car is driven/warmed for 5-10 mins it never happens.

I've done a quick test through Star SDS, it showed that the "B28" Pressure sensor is stored (Code: P2007-008).

Removed the sensor (A004 153 33 28), replaced it with the new one which is (A006 153 98 28). However, the problem still exists.

At this moment I don't really know what is cause of the problem. Hope you guys help me sort it out.

Thanks
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Fantomas 02-13-2019 07:41 PM

It sounds like you're describing the TCC solenoid issue. When the car is cold it starts out in 1st gear even in C mode, the TCC solenoid engages abruptly and only when cold. Once warmed up this goes away.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...em-solved.html

GinDistiller 02-14-2019 11:46 AM

Yep I second the TCC. Replace it along with plug connector and conductor plate, filter and new ATF and you should be good as new.

mAMG 02-22-2019 06:00 PM


Originally Posted by Fantomas (Post 7681017)
It sounds like you're describing the TCC solenoid issue. When the car is cold it starts out in 1st gear even in C mode, the TCC solenoid engages abruptly and only when cold. Once warmed up this goes away.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...em-solved.html


Originally Posted by GinDistiller (Post 7681441)
Yep I second the TCC. Replace it along with plug connector and conductor plate, filter and new ATF and you should be good as new.

Alright then, I'll have to change it sometime .
Is it fine if I drive the car like that for a while ?

​​​​​​The thing is, its just a matter of weeks and the temperatures here is going to skyrocket again, so the issue won't be happening.

N_Rob 02-24-2019 02:23 PM


Originally Posted by mAMG (Post 7688593)
Alright then, I'll have to change it sometime .
Is it fine if I drive the car like that for a while ?

​​​​​​The thing is, its just a matter of weeks and the temperatures here is going to skyrocket again, so the issue won't be happening.

Yes you should be fine to drive it like that for the time being, I doubt it’s putting that much extra (if any) strain on the tc. I have the same issue that started when the temperatures dropped a lot back in early January and haven’t replaced it yet, though mine doesn’t drop as many rpm as yours.

StarvingArtist 02-25-2019 08:29 AM

I read through that thread up into the 70's and one thing I didn't see... shouldn't a new conductor plate come with all the solenoids? I didn't realize you had to, or could replace them separately.

GinDistiller 02-25-2019 10:42 AM


Originally Posted by StarvingArtist (Post 7690297)
I read through that thread up into the 70's and one thing I didn't see... shouldn't a new conductor plate come with all the solenoids? I didn't realize you had to, or could replace them separately.

Solenoids are all separate, the conductor plate is just what supplies them with power. Solenoid failure is rare, especially shift solenoids, but for about $60 the TCC solenoid is a no brainer while you're in there.

PieRat 02-26-2019 02:42 AM

I assume this solenoid is the most prone to failure being for the torque converter?

mAMG 03-20-2019 09:42 AM

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...a81a1847f6.jpg

B28 Pressure sensor error still exists, with 2 more errors.

Any ideas ?
Could it be the installed item is wrong part number ?

mAMG 04-29-2019 08:54 PM

Well, I believe i got the infamous hiccup issue that usually happens on larger throttle bodies, although my car is stock.

It usually happens after a highway drive, once I slow down, the car starts to shake/surges.
Works fine after a restart ...

GinDistiller 04-29-2019 09:05 PM

I'd check all vacuum connectors near the back of the supercharger, especially since you probably had some stretched to get to that darn MAP sensor (ask me how I know).

There's the brake booster plug/plunger and then a metal pipe underneath that, both on the drivers side, that are prone to leaks as well.

My hiccup has remained but I finally got a code for the bypass actuator motor, which greatly explains a loss in power between shifts and at random times when it should be closed but isn't.

Just pulled the supercharger tonight, what a chore, hopefully back together soon...

N_Rob 04-29-2019 09:30 PM


Originally Posted by GinDistiller (Post 7744686)
I'd check all vacuum connectors near the back of the supercharger, especially since you probably had some stretched to get to that darn MAP sensor (ask me how I know).

There's the brake booster plug/plunger and then a metal pipe underneath that, both on the drivers side, that are prone to leaks as well.

My hiccup has remained but I finally got a code for the bypass actuator motor, which greatly explains a loss in power between shifts and at random times when it should be closed but isn't.

Just pulled the supercharger tonight, what a chore, hopefully back together soon...

This. There is a vacuum line that attaches to the back of the supercharger on the driver's side (if you have a LHD car). I had this issue too after redoing my valve cover gaskets and I didn't put the metal part of the line back in correctly, it felt like it was in place but was not. Remove the driver's side surge tank and use a handheld mirror to get a better view of the grommet.

mAMG 05-01-2019 02:45 PM

They are all connected ...


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