Weird problem on every morning
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Weird problem on every morning
Hello All,
Everyday in the morning, I switch the Engine on and put the gear in drive. Once the car starts moving and reaches the 2000 RPM, it drops to 1000 RPM immediately, as if I took my leg off the throttle pedal.
This happens only the 2nd gear or 3rd (Car is always on "C" mode). Once the car is driven/warmed for 5-10 mins it never happens.
I've done a quick test through Star SDS, it showed that the "B28" Pressure sensor is stored (Code: P2007-008).
Removed the sensor (A004 153 33 28), replaced it with the new one which is (A006 153 98 28). However, the problem still exists.
At this moment I don't really know what is cause of the problem. Hope you guys help me sort it out.
Thanks
Everyday in the morning, I switch the Engine on and put the gear in drive. Once the car starts moving and reaches the 2000 RPM, it drops to 1000 RPM immediately, as if I took my leg off the throttle pedal.
This happens only the 2nd gear or 3rd (Car is always on "C" mode). Once the car is driven/warmed for 5-10 mins it never happens.
I've done a quick test through Star SDS, it showed that the "B28" Pressure sensor is stored (Code: P2007-008).
Removed the sensor (A004 153 33 28), replaced it with the new one which is (A006 153 98 28). However, the problem still exists.
At this moment I don't really know what is cause of the problem. Hope you guys help me sort it out.
Thanks
Last edited by mAMG; 02-12-2019 at 01:32 PM.
#2
Senior Member
It sounds like you're describing the TCC solenoid issue. When the car is cold it starts out in 1st gear even in C mode, the TCC solenoid engages abruptly and only when cold. Once warmed up this goes away.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...em-solved.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...em-solved.html
Last edited by Fantomas; 02-13-2019 at 08:03 PM.
#3
Super Member
Yep I second the TCC. Replace it along with plug connector and conductor plate, filter and new ATF and you should be good as new.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
It sounds like you're describing the TCC solenoid issue. When the car is cold it starts out in 1st gear even in C mode, the TCC solenoid engages abruptly and only when cold. Once warmed up this goes away.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...em-solved.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...em-solved.html
Is it fine if I drive the car like that for a while ?
The thing is, its just a matter of weeks and the temperatures here is going to skyrocket again, so the issue won't be happening.
#5
Member
Yes you should be fine to drive it like that for the time being, I doubt it’s putting that much extra (if any) strain on the tc. I have the same issue that started when the temperatures dropped a lot back in early January and haven’t replaced it yet, though mine doesn’t drop as many rpm as yours.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
I read through that thread up into the 70's and one thing I didn't see... shouldn't a new conductor plate come with all the solenoids? I didn't realize you had to, or could replace them separately.
#7
Super Member
Solenoids are all separate, the conductor plate is just what supplies them with power. Solenoid failure is rare, especially shift solenoids, but for about $60 the TCC solenoid is a no brainer while you're in there.
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#10
Member
Thread Starter
Well, I believe i got the infamous hiccup issue that usually happens on larger throttle bodies, although my car is stock.
It usually happens after a highway drive, once I slow down, the car starts to shake/surges.
Works fine after a restart ...
It usually happens after a highway drive, once I slow down, the car starts to shake/surges.
Works fine after a restart ...
#11
Super Member
I'd check all vacuum connectors near the back of the supercharger, especially since you probably had some stretched to get to that darn MAP sensor (ask me how I know).
There's the brake booster plug/plunger and then a metal pipe underneath that, both on the drivers side, that are prone to leaks as well.
My hiccup has remained but I finally got a code for the bypass actuator motor, which greatly explains a loss in power between shifts and at random times when it should be closed but isn't.
Just pulled the supercharger tonight, what a chore, hopefully back together soon...
There's the brake booster plug/plunger and then a metal pipe underneath that, both on the drivers side, that are prone to leaks as well.
My hiccup has remained but I finally got a code for the bypass actuator motor, which greatly explains a loss in power between shifts and at random times when it should be closed but isn't.
Just pulled the supercharger tonight, what a chore, hopefully back together soon...
#12
Member
I'd check all vacuum connectors near the back of the supercharger, especially since you probably had some stretched to get to that darn MAP sensor (ask me how I know).
There's the brake booster plug/plunger and then a metal pipe underneath that, both on the drivers side, that are prone to leaks as well.
My hiccup has remained but I finally got a code for the bypass actuator motor, which greatly explains a loss in power between shifts and at random times when it should be closed but isn't.
Just pulled the supercharger tonight, what a chore, hopefully back together soon...
There's the brake booster plug/plunger and then a metal pipe underneath that, both on the drivers side, that are prone to leaks as well.
My hiccup has remained but I finally got a code for the bypass actuator motor, which greatly explains a loss in power between shifts and at random times when it should be closed but isn't.
Just pulled the supercharger tonight, what a chore, hopefully back together soon...