W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Removing fuel pump on E63?

Old Mar 2, 2019 | 12:20 PM
  #1  
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1999 C43, 2008 P30 E63, 2014 SQ5, 2024 Model Y Performance
Removing fuel pump on E63?

Does anyone know how to remove the black connectors on top of the fuel pump? They are on the hoses that lead to the fuel filter and I can't figure out how they come off?
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Old Mar 2, 2019 | 04:33 PM
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Ok, I finally got the fuel pump and filter installed. When I fired it up it took a second but finally started. It is idling ROUGH and has a flashing check engine light. I hooked up my code reader and it lit up like a Christmas tree:

P2541 Low pressure fuel system sensor circuit low
P2271 O2 sensor signal biased/stuck rich bank 1 sensor 2
P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected
P2273 O2 sensor signal biased/stuck rich bank 2 sensor 2
P0156 O2 sensor circuit bank 2 sensor 2
P0136 O2 sensor circuit bank 1 sensor 2
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire detected

The fuel pump and fuel filter are OEM

Any ideas?
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Old Mar 2, 2019 | 07:12 PM
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Now the car won't start at all. Sometimes it tries to crank, other times it sits there,

I've tried the following combinations:

New fuel pump new fuel filter
Old fuel pump new fuel filter
Old fuel pump old fuel filter (reinstalled)

I was just out ripping around burning the fuel down before I swapped out the fuel pump/filter.
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Old Mar 5, 2019 | 07:07 PM
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2008 Mercedes Benz E63
Why wouldnt you take it to the dealer and tell them you are smelling gas? Should have been able to get the tank and pump replaced for free.

Also did you test fuel pressure or just guess and try replacing the pump?
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Old Mar 6, 2019 | 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by layzie12g
Why wouldnt you take it to the dealer and tell them you are smelling gas? Should have been able to get the tank and pump replaced for free.

Also did you test fuel pressure or just guess and try replacing the pump?
I was getting the infamous P228F code (high fuel pressure) and tried replacing the FPS. That didn't work. Then someone suggested running a couple bottles of techron, which I did, and the CEL went away for a couple days. The CEL came back but this time it was low fuel pressure. There were a couple threads on the subject and they all said replacement of the fuel pump/fuel filter eliminated the issue. This is what led me to the replacement.

I believe my issue after replacement is air in the line causing the rough idle/CEL's and the cranking issue is battery related. I'm expecting to have it all sorted out tonight.
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Old Mar 6, 2019 | 01:21 PM
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Hmm...

Post back and let us know what you come up with.
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 06:36 AM
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I had the battery tested and it came back as fine but low. I charged my battery until it was full and tried again, same issue. On the first attempt after a fully charged battery the car tries to turn over for a second or 2 then stops. After the initial attempt to turn over it seems like the battery is drained. On subsequent attempts the dash lights will dim and it will sit there for a couple seconds while attempting to crank, then it will try for a split second and stop again.

Headlights, interior lights, dash, radio, and keyless entry all work fine. I even tried my jumper pack and jumper cables, neither worked.

Could this be a bad alternator or starter?
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 11:41 AM
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Are you using a generic scan tool or an SDS?

It is sounding like your issues are starting to compound. I have seen batteries that test as good actually be no good and this is the same with starters. Did you have any indications of starter/battery failure before doing the fuel pump? It seems strange this would happen after trying to fix another issue. In my experience with these cars, I have never seen air in the lines being an issue. It might be a good idea to get someone to come out and take a look at the car with you and scan it with an SDS if you have not been using one.
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by layzie12g
Are you using a generic scan tool or an SDS?

It is sounding like your issues are starting to compound. I have seen batteries that test as good actually be no good and this is the same with starters. Did you have any indications of starter/battery failure before doing the fuel pump? It seems strange this would happen after trying to fix another issue. In my experience with these cars, I have never seen air in the lines being an issue. It might be a good idea to get someone to come out and take a look at the car with you and scan it with an SDS if you have not been using one.
I've been using a generic scan tool. There was no indication of any issues prior to me changing the pump/filter.
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Old Mar 27, 2019 | 01:14 PM
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UPDATE:

The starter was toast and there was a large amount of raw fuel in 2 cylinders caused by faulty injectors. I was fortunate this didn't happen when the vehicle was running otherwise it would have hydro locked and bent rods. Did a compression test just to double check and all came back well in range. New fuel injectors should be here tomorrow and she should be back on the road shredding tires
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Old Mar 28, 2019 | 03:54 PM
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09 E63
please let me know how replacing the fuel injectors go; I'm doing this in June, along with taking the intake manifold off and cleaning and replacing valve cover gaskets. thanks
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Old Mar 31, 2019 | 11:42 AM
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UPDATE:

My E63 is alive and well. New starter, replaced the fuel injectors, and she is good to go. If you haven't replaced your fuel injectors on your M156 I suggest doing so. My E63 only has 57,000 miles and they failed after I installed a new fuel pump. I got lucky that they failed when attempting to start the vehicle vs when it was running. 2 of the injectors dumped fuel into the cylinders preventing it from starting, had it of been running it most likely would have hydro locked the motor and bent rods.
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