When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bought MBH's current header and race cat system. I don't recall anyone doing an overview of this specific cat setup, I ran into a couple questions and observations. Wanted to see if anyone has any thoughts.
1. Driver headers sit higher, by about an inch I think. Because of this the driver o2 sensor extention cat doesn't have much room to be oriented anywhere other than downward. I notice the flat side of the cat is pointed toward the side of the car in this case. Curious if the flat side was intended to be pointed up, in which case the o2 sensors would be lower than anything else. The o2 extentions do work with the oem sensors, but it conflicts with the mounts for the undercarriage plastic.
2. I've seen other headers set up this way, but I notice there's no provision for one of the resonator clamps. This leaves the existing clamp hanging off the resonator. I could just v-band the midpipe/resonator connection and sawzall off the existing resonator clamp so it doesn't rattle. No better ideas for now.
It wasn't hard to install the headers. I got creative and worked on a handful of the nuts by feel, instead of looking at it. I did most of the work with a 10mm crescent wrench, didn't end up needing anything else. All the coil pack clips disintegrated when I pulled them off from brittleness and most of the studs backed out.
Mostly curious if anyone came up with anything smart for running the cats and plastic cover at the same time, and if the cats are pointing the right way. Maybe I can maybe run the sensor around the side of the plastic cover. Hidden threatening grasshopper Hashtag conflict
Heat shield over driver cat is maxed out by the way, there's no pivoting it any higher. Also I beat you to pointing out I said "I worked on a handful of the nuts by feel".
the cats in reference to the build in o2 extension are not designed to sit parallel to the car. They will be offset from 90 degrees if you follow me. We do this to clear the plastics. As for bolting to the factory resonator, First thing to do is make sure you have the correct sides going into the resonator. The system is a slip fit between all joints that are clamped. This allows for adjust ability front to back. You are not looking to bottom out every slip fit joint. Make sure to reuse the OEM doughnut gasket. If you have any questions or concerns, we can take care of you. If something isnt right, we can fix it. Also make sure the cats are on the correct side of the car. they can only be 1 way and are not right and left swappable.
EDIT: on the resonator you reuse the factory clamp on one side this is why one side of the resonator pipes has no clap on .
Last edited by MBH motorsports; 09-04-2019 at 12:47 AM.
Reason: left a part out
I looked at the cat o2 bungs and plastics, and they seem to work positioned like this. Looks solid to me, pointed diagonally down toward the center of the car.
Also, if the bent midpipes attached directy to the cats are coming out different lengths might that indicate the cats are backwards? I just noticed they have different stamps, one ending in 0219, one ending in 1118.
I looked at the cat o2 bungs and plastics, and they seem to work positioned like this. Looks solid to me, pointed diagonally down toward the center of the car.
, if the bent midpipes attached directy to the cats are coming out different lengths might that indicate the cats are backwards? I just noticed they have different stamps, one ending in 0219, one ending in 1118.
Thanks everyone.
This is how that cats are to be clocked. Below is a catless system and Xpipe of ours. it should help with reference though.