Hi All, been around for a while on the forum but would love to get your help. I live on the south shore of Boston.
M156 with about 89k was running perfect, stock, great maintenance history. Put K&N w charcoal delete and got check engine light. replaced K&N with the AFE dry filters (still no charcoals) and no more ck engine light.... car ran perfect.
Decided to get a stage 1 tune from a popular vendor. After tune, car ran w/o ck engine light for about 100 miles. Out of know where, I'd get these random instantaneous engine stalls then lights all on the dash like the car's ignition was in "2" - christmas tree). When this would happen at speed, it feels like the key was turned to off by a phantom passenger and the jolt is frightening if you're on the gas. When motoring/idling thru slow traffic (and this fault happened), the car would stall but start right back up after putting the transmission into park. It doesn't always throw a code after being reset on the first instance but would usually on the second sudden engine cut out.
The p2160 error states: "OBD II fault code P2610 is a generic code that is defined as “Engine control module (ECM) – internal engine off timer – performance”, and is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is unable to determine if the engine had been shut off, but more precisely, for how long the engine had been shut off."
Internet info on the fault is limited (esp with Merc's). But seems like a weak battery needing to be replaced is most common resolution/initial attempt. My Battery is factory and 2 years old. Kept on trickle charger during winter, dash shows 14.1V while running. Beyond the tune, there has been no altercations (other than AFE filters/no charcoals. I reset the tune back to factory but still got the same code. One thing I'm wondering is that after the tune "mates" to your ECU, does reseting back to stock tune really do just that or does the tune permanently change some of the s/w in the ECU so that "stock tune" really isn't stock tune? The p2160 CEL s easily reset with an obd2 reader. I drive 20 miles each way to work and this stall usually happens twice each way - of note, it doesn't seem to happen while engine (oil) is still warming up and this is not a daily, only driven in good weather.
I'd love to hear any experiences / suggestions / theories as to why this is happening. The stalling occurs under any load (scared the crap out of me when it "stalled" while flooring it on a highway on-ramp... felt like I was on a bucking bronco). Really would like to know where to go next... I'm a DIY but will bring to dealer if there isn't any option.
Thank you very much, Ed
M156 with about 89k was running perfect, stock, great maintenance history. Put K&N w charcoal delete and got check engine light. replaced K&N with the AFE dry filters (still no charcoals) and no more ck engine light.... car ran perfect.
Decided to get a stage 1 tune from a popular vendor. After tune, car ran w/o ck engine light for about 100 miles. Out of know where, I'd get these random instantaneous engine stalls then lights all on the dash like the car's ignition was in "2" - christmas tree). When this would happen at speed, it feels like the key was turned to off by a phantom passenger and the jolt is frightening if you're on the gas. When motoring/idling thru slow traffic (and this fault happened), the car would stall but start right back up after putting the transmission into park. It doesn't always throw a code after being reset on the first instance but would usually on the second sudden engine cut out.
The p2160 error states: "OBD II fault code P2610 is a generic code that is defined as “Engine control module (ECM) – internal engine off timer – performance”, and is set when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is unable to determine if the engine had been shut off, but more precisely, for how long the engine had been shut off."
Internet info on the fault is limited (esp with Merc's). But seems like a weak battery needing to be replaced is most common resolution/initial attempt. My Battery is factory and 2 years old. Kept on trickle charger during winter, dash shows 14.1V while running. Beyond the tune, there has been no altercations (other than AFE filters/no charcoals. I reset the tune back to factory but still got the same code. One thing I'm wondering is that after the tune "mates" to your ECU, does reseting back to stock tune really do just that or does the tune permanently change some of the s/w in the ECU so that "stock tune" really isn't stock tune? The p2160 CEL s easily reset with an obd2 reader. I drive 20 miles each way to work and this stall usually happens twice each way - of note, it doesn't seem to happen while engine (oil) is still warming up and this is not a daily, only driven in good weather.
I'd love to hear any experiences / suggestions / theories as to why this is happening. The stalling occurs under any load (scared the crap out of me when it "stalled" while flooring it on a highway on-ramp... felt like I was on a bucking bronco). Really would like to know where to go next... I'm a DIY but will bring to dealer if there isn't any option.
Thank you very much, Ed
I'd replace the aux battery if you haven't yet or don't have record. It's the smaller one and can be taxed having the key left on for a bit (i.e. during tuning). Not sure where it's located on your car (either engine bay back by the firewall, or behind a rear seat).
Thanks Gin, I don't thing the 07 e63 has an aux battery. I've tried disconnecting the trunk battery from the car for like a week, load tested battery at auto zone (good)... It's odd. there is like no info or similar experience that I can find anywhere... I wish there was a way to test that p2610 to identify what specifically is triggering the engine hiccup/dashboard lighting up. Stinks because I don't want to drive the car until fixed and the weather here is so nice right now. In a month or so, it will be in storage.
Anyway, I appreciate you taking the time to reply, Ed
Anyway, I appreciate you taking the time to reply, Ed
