W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

Lower Ball Joint?

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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 10:55 AM
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2005 E55 AMG
Lower Ball Joint?

Hey guys, I went through my front end about 2 months ago, replacing all control (thrust) arms and ball joints. About a week ago I started getting a pop when turning my wheel left while stationary, or moving very slowly. I can’t recall if the thrust arm was properly torqued down on top of it with load from the car and was told that could be a potential issue. Any chance I can just crawl under it and tighten the hell out of the thrust arm while the car sits? Just curious if anyone has had similar issues. The popping has become much louder in recent days.
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 12:49 PM
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Not really, no. Essentially they want the suspension (in general) tightened in "ready to drive" condition, and not tightened with the wheel hanging down on the lift/jack.

You can lift the car, break the bolt loose in question, and re-tighten it in the proper "ready to drive" condition.

Not sure what would cause the popping. Never had an issue like that after replacing suspension components.
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 03:38 PM
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subscribed; curious as well as I'll be doing my front end soon enough
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 04:07 PM
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Hoping improper install didn’t cause premature wear to the extent it’s shot. I’ll be jacking the car up tonight and retightening with a full load on the thrust arm. Hoping that excess play in the seating of the ball joint has grown larger and causes the popping noise when weight shifts on it, and that tightening will do the trick. Will update tonight.
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake528
Hoping improper install didn’t cause premature wear to the extent it’s shot. I’ll be jacking the car up tonight and retightening with a full load on the thrust arm. Hoping that excess play in the seating of the ball joint has grown larger and causes the popping noise when weight shifts on it, and that tightening will do the trick. Will update tonight.
Measure the wheelwell height when on the ground (at normal ride height). Use one jack on the lift pad to get the car in the air. Use a second jack to lift the wheel relatively where it's at normal ride height and then tighten, and lower.

I use a ramp on the other side so the car is actually level across.
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 07:30 PM
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Thank God, success! The nut on top of the tie rod ball joint wasn’t tight. I was able to put the car on ramps and have my Dad turn the wheel with me looking and I could see the top of the call joint shifting slightly. Tightened down hard and no pop!
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by duccen
Be careful,you dont want things like that to come loose at 200mph! glad you found it.
Yeah, really! Thankfully I wasn’t driving it hard until I corrected the problem. Just nice to have a small win. Next to tackle is an SRS light I suspect is the passenger seat sensor. Heard people code it out or use emulators in lieu of replacing the sensor.
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Old Oct 24, 2019 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by duccen
Be careful,you dont want things like that to come loose at 200mph! glad you found it.
Not even 60 mph. I'm too paranoid to let others work on my car. Some of this stuff is important.
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Old Oct 24, 2019 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by StarvingArtist
Not even 60 mph. I'm too paranoid to let others work on my car. Some of this stuff is important.
Yeah - I’m the one who did the work. Live and learn. Must have missed torquing completely. Easy to get distracted when doing the entire front end.
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Old Oct 24, 2019 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake528
Yeah - I’m the one who did the work. Live and learn. Must have missed torquing completely. Easy to get distracted when doing the entire front end.
They're torque plus angle. They get really tight.
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