05 E55 Conductor Plate
04-12-2020, 09:06 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
05 E55 Conductor Plate
So i'm going to be replacing my conductor plate next week at some point 05 E55. Have done avid searching and went through the diy(s) here as well . I am pretty confident as this looks doable if you have some experience under your cap . Few questions I have is , is this best to do in Park or Neutral - nor does it make any difference ?
Once the bolts are all removed from the valve body is there anything that's loose that I need to take note of its position ? no check ***** , park prawl under tension , levers etc. ? Any tips or heads up is appreciated , will be using a newer digital snap on torque wrench on the valve body bolts .
Once the bolts are all removed from the valve body is there anything that's loose that I need to take note of its position ? no check ***** , park prawl under tension , levers etc. ? Any tips or heads up is appreciated , will be using a newer digital snap on torque wrench on the valve body bolts .
04-13-2020, 03:00 PM
#2
Super Member
It's thankfully pretty straight forward! I've had mine off several times, got faster each go 
Park/Neutral: I've always had it in Park. If you're working somewhere that you might need to move the car out then have it in neutral just in case, however I can't remember if our cars let you power everything down with the gearshift in neutral or not.
Surprises: None really, just make sure you've fully loosened the tiny screw inside the wire connector/plug, I've forgotten and thought the valve body was getting stuck on something once I got it loose, and it's easy to snap plastic so just make sure that is loose before you drop the VB along with the conductor plate. Let the ATF drain for a while, otherwise it can be really messy. The park prawl just slides right back to where it was, I don't think there is any way that can be screwed up.
I think the most important and tedious element of this is getting the fluid level perfect after reassembly, it may just take a drive or two and rechecks against temp to get perfect and our cars are very sensitive to incorrect levels.
Good luck!
Park/Neutral: I've always had it in Park. If you're working somewhere that you might need to move the car out then have it in neutral just in case, however I can't remember if our cars let you power everything down with the gearshift in neutral or not.
Surprises: None really, just make sure you've fully loosened the tiny screw inside the wire connector/plug, I've forgotten and thought the valve body was getting stuck on something once I got it loose, and it's easy to snap plastic so just make sure that is loose before you drop the VB along with the conductor plate. Let the ATF drain for a while, otherwise it can be really messy. The park prawl just slides right back to where it was, I don't think there is any way that can be screwed up.
I think the most important and tedious element of this is getting the fluid level perfect after reassembly, it may just take a drive or two and rechecks against temp to get perfect and our cars are very sensitive to incorrect levels.
Good luck!
04-13-2020, 03:37 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It's thankfully pretty straight forward! I've had mine off several times, got faster each go
Park/Neutral: I've always had it in Park. If you're working somewhere that you might need to move the car out then have it in neutral just in case, however I can't remember if our cars let you power everything down with the gearshift in neutral or not.
Surprises: None really, just make sure you've fully loosened the tiny screw inside the wire connector/plug, I've forgotten and thought the valve body was getting stuck on something once I got it loose, and it's easy to snap plastic so just make sure that is loose before you drop the VB along with the conductor plate. Let the ATF drain for a while, otherwise it can be really messy. The park prawl just slides right back to where it was, I don't think there is any way that can be screwed up.
I think the most important and tedious element of this is getting the fluid level perfect after reassembly, it may just take a drive or two and rechecks against temp to get perfect and our cars are very sensitive to incorrect levels.
Good luck!
Park/Neutral: I've always had it in Park. If you're working somewhere that you might need to move the car out then have it in neutral just in case, however I can't remember if our cars let you power everything down with the gearshift in neutral or not.
Surprises: None really, just make sure you've fully loosened the tiny screw inside the wire connector/plug, I've forgotten and thought the valve body was getting stuck on something once I got it loose, and it's easy to snap plastic so just make sure that is loose before you drop the VB along with the conductor plate. Let the ATF drain for a while, otherwise it can be really messy. The park prawl just slides right back to where it was, I don't think there is any way that can be screwed up.
I think the most important and tedious element of this is getting the fluid level perfect after reassembly, it may just take a drive or two and rechecks against temp to get perfect and our cars are very sensitive to incorrect levels.
Good luck!
04-13-2020, 04:12 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just to clarify 72 inch pounds on the valve body torx. + 90deg. turn after ? have about 6-7 qts of atf - ballpark should be enough ? besides the 13 pin connector , filter , gasket anything else that is a common fail item while im in there ?
