W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

WOT now CEL, Oil in Engine Bay, Rough Idle HELP

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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 01:14 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by kevm14
Can I just check under my seat without removing any tank/pump seals? This thread is making me nervous. I don't know if my car has even had a new tank. I only have a record of the original 08 recall. I need to get my hands on the maintenance records post-2010...
PM me your VIN # I can check for you.
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 01:50 PM
  #27  
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I still don't know why anyone would drive a modded car with out at LEAST a wide band and a fuel pressure gauge. It;s the only way to know what is going on in the engine. They are must have's to prevent these problems !!!
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 02:04 PM
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
Yeah. Also I would think that car should have been getting some serious knock retard at the top of the RPM band for a while. Unless someone turned that down or off as part of the "tune."
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 02:38 PM
  #29  
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So I did have some major issues with the MB of Santa Rosa for the recall. Long story short my car went in for a CPS because it was dying on me. I declined them to install it because they wanted over $600 for a $25 part that takes 15 minutes to install. Anyways, had them do fuel tank recall while it was there. When I got it back and replaced CPS car would start then die right away. Brought it back because I knew they messed up fuel pumps. Took them a while to figure it out and they even said it was my fault because the pumps had been tampered with when they never had. They seemed to have fixed the issue, but i’m not sure how or if they did it correctly.

Maybe they just got one pump running to where it wouldn’t die anymore? They mentioned the reversed polarity and my friend from the shop said they always use the pig tail adapers, but who knows.
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 11:02 PM
  #30  
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I don't see where your fuel tank was ever replaced, nor the fuel filter or pump, except maybe in 2007 but that was 100k miles ago, unless it was done at an independent shop. I suspect your fuel system was in disrepair leading to low fuel pressure at high load. Remove your lower back seat cushion (pull up on the front edge) and take off the round left and right access covers for the fuel pump and sender (8mm socket) Take some closeup pictures I may be able to tell you if everything's original. Also unplug the fuel pump connector and look for burned contacts.
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 01:49 AM
  #31  
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Not sure where you are seeing this info? My car had 94K miles and it was done at around 90K miles. I’ll take some pics but from my understanding and from first hand experience I took it in and they did the fuel system recall because I would smell gas on a full tank and it went away after. I believe they got it wrong at first then managed to figure out the correct way to install fuel pumps on late model E55’s.
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 07:22 AM
  #32  
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
He's talking about my car.
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 08:47 AM
  #33  
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
Has the theory that clogged filters lead to increased pump draw been confirmed or is that just a working theory that people go along with because it "makes sense?"

Nonetheless, I think I will check my harness for burnt plugs and see what's what and go from there. I am starting from zero detectable issues. Car runs great, no fuel smell, etc. On the other hand, I may be heading to future problems if I don't, you know, maintain the car properly...
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 09:27 AM
  #34  
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I read this title on the front page and KNEW it was going to be about an E55.......GL to ya!
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 11:15 AM
  #35  
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Ah sorry about that. Anyways, gonna sit on the car for a while till I meet some actual mechanics in the northbay, most these guys wanna work on mommy and daddys dailies for the rest of their life! Even RPM, a performance indy shop, told me that they would only install a new motor from mercedes... LOL

that and there is not very many good options for M113K’s right now...

if I wasn’t driving this as a daily I would dump more money into it, but right now it makes more sense to buy a daily than keep dumping money into this car.

If anyone wants to buy a complete E55, tons of mods, lmk.
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 08:07 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by redc36
@JohnLane quick question. To replace O-ring (there is one in the housing and one in the cap correct? same size?) you need remove valve cover since its screwed from behind correct?
It's been long enough since I did it that I couldn't quote chapter and verse. That said; I don't recall pulling a cam cover to do this. Pull radiator fan for more access. Pull serp belt. Get to removing fasteners that hold filter housing to the timing cover.

OP..... If you're serious about parting with your car..... I may just be interested in having it for the right $$$. We can continue via P/M.
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 08:49 PM
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
PM me your VIN # I can check for you.
I sent you my email in PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 10:14 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by kevm14
Has the theory that clogged filters lead to increased pump draw been confirmed or is that just a working theory that people go along with because it "makes sense?"

Nonetheless, I think I will check my harness for burnt plugs and see what's what and go from there. I am starting from zero detectable issues. Car runs great, no fuel smell, etc. On the other hand, I may be heading to future problems if I don't, you know, maintain the car properly...
Not a theory. Straight out of electrical engineering. Clogged filter, increased load, motor rpms drop, torque increases, current increases. A locked rotor will draw the greatest amount of current so the designer needs to account for that when it comes to safety circuitry and whether or not the designer wants the motor to survive a period of time while locked; max current, max heat, if the protection circuit fails to engage you will literally melt the insulation off of the wire. Quick 6-minute video on a DC motor application here:

FWIW, I always recommend servicing the fuel pump relay and connections as a maintenance item.

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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 12:10 PM
  #39  
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One thing's for sure the factory fuel pump pins are undersized for the amp load. My tank with new pumps is already showing browning around the pins in the fuel hat at 30k miles. I've already installed a HD 75 amp relay and heavier wiring in the trunk. The stock single relay (mid 2005 and earlier) is rated for 30 amps at 70 degrees. How often is your trunk at 70F here in Florida? As the ambient temp goes up that 30a rating drops quickly.
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 02:50 PM
  #40  
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JohnLane i’ll let you know if I go that route


why can’t I have a mechanic like this around here? He told me the average rebuild is around $3000 CAD. Thats just over $2000 USD. At this point really just looking for someone to take on this rebuild project.
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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 03:22 PM
  #41  
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Dude, scrolled through the video. But that would be a super fun and pretty easy project.

Definitely helps that they have a car lift, but even taking this thing out the old fashioned way would be something you should look at exploring. And the $3000 price tag is labor.

The more you can do and experiment with yourself always the better.

Do some searching around your area and see if there's a car group near you. I'm sure some cool wrenchers would be down to knock this project out with you over some Molsons.

I'm moving from LA to Seattle soon, and hoping to find a group of gearheads. Was looking to move to Vancouver, but the world went south. So my wife and I got as close as we could...

if I was near I'd help you out.

Found a bare block on eBay for $700, but would require a bit of work to get back together.

I'd suggest looking at a full motor honestly. Just let the car sit for a little bit find some cheap transportation if it's your daily. Save some cash and buy a full motor.

https://www.redlineautoparts.com/mer...ock-78k-sk204/

Alternately, call around and see if you can get an engine without the supercharger.

But don't give up on the car yet man. Get the fuel situation looked at. And just save cash and swap that engine out and go back to a stock tune and enjoy that car!



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Old Jul 19, 2020 | 06:41 PM
  #42  
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04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
Originally Posted by bbirdwell
Not a theory. Straight out of electrical engineering. Clogged filter, increased load, motor rpms drop, torque increases, current increases.
Not quite. Your entire post is based on the assumption that the pump slows down as the filter clogs - and yes a locked rotor draws the most current. Centrifugal pumps generally require less power as you cut off flow. Besides, on a returnless fuel system, it's dead headed all the time (except not really because of the in tank regulator). I don't think a clogged filter causes over current. I think it simply leads to reduced fuel flow. A positive displacement pump on the other hand is a whole different beast.

Air is obviously compressible but when you plug the end of a vacuum hose, what happens to the vacuum motor? It picks up in RPM and I promise you also decreases current draw. Centrifugal pump...

The anecdotal data seems to be "wow this guy is on stock filters at 100k, no wonder these wires are burned." Yeah and it's also been in service for....100k. You'd probably see the same burning even if the filter was able to replaced every 10k but left the pumps and wiring untouched.

I guess we'll see - mine should be burnt just because of the time in service.

FWIW, GM had an issue very similar to this and issued a recall on some vehicles such as the CTS-V (first gen) and STS-V. I got a brand new pump and level sender out of that. About 5 years ago.
Engine, March 12, 2015

Original Recall from the NHTSA

Manufacturer's Report Date
March 12, 2015
NHTSA Action Number
N/A
Potential Number of Units Affected
10,005
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number
14V542000
Component
FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINEELIVERY:FUEL PUMP
Summary
General Motors LLC (GM) is recalling certain model year 2004-2007 Cadillac CTS-V vehicles manufactured October 6, 2003, to March 15, 2007, and 2006-2007 Cadillac STS-V vehicles manufactured June 23, 2005, to March 15, 2007. In the affected vehicles, the electrical terminals of the fuel pump module may overheat resulting in the melting of the flange material.
Consequence

If the flange melts, a hole may be created allowing the fuel pump to leak fuel, causing the vehicle to stall, increasing the risk of a vehicle crash. Additionally, leaking fuel in the presence of an ignition source increases the risk of a fire.
I don't know what it is with this stuff. It seems to be a time thing and the accepted conductor temperatures must not be good. Who knows.
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 02:02 AM
  #43  
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Its a problem with air intake temperatures and leaning out. Intake, tb, shorty headers. Sucking in way more air. Stock fuel pumps, stock fuel injectors, non looped fuel rail. Recipe for disaster. You’re sucking in way more hot air and not dumping enough fuel into cylinder 8 to keep it cool. My guess is my piston melted.

Remedy? Cooling mods. Upgraded intercooler, change out i/c pump regularly, meth injection if you plan to race around. Also, looped fuel rail, bigger injectors, and tuned by a professional.
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 02:06 AM
  #44  
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Anywho, i’m getting out of the AMG performance scene for awhile. Staying with Mercedes, just bought a C250. I am committed to selling my E55. Will take pics and post a new post announcing it. Am going to take offers through PM.
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 07:36 PM
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Same thing with my 2006 E55 with ONLY 83mm fixed pulley and tune. Tune was good for 25k km so I don't think I can blame the tuner. Purchased a 2005 E55 replacement. For folks in Oz the blown car is offered for sale.
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Old Jul 22, 2020 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by trabots

.
She's dead Jim!
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