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Anyone have luck finding a CV boot kit for this car? Seems they are available 1999-2002, but not 2003+. Both of my inner CVs need work.
My experience has been that by the time the split boot has been found, enough grit and stuff has got into the CV that life is often not much longer. That added to the fact the by the time the boot splits it has been on the car for a lot of miles and that too gets that CV close to or at its life end. I have seen listed somewhere a universal boot that wraps the CV and has enough overlap of the ends that stuff isn't supposed to be able to get into the CV. I've never tried one - I just replace/rebuild the half shaft when it gets to that point.
@machild, unfortunately that's my experience too. What confused me - I found a kit for new joint (inc *****, race, etc.), but it didn't seem to come with a boot!
@machild, unfortunately that's my experience too. What confused me - I found a kit for new joint (inc *****, race, etc.), but it didn't seem to come with a boot!
Have you talked to FCP to see if they could source a boot or two for you? Like you, I am surprised they don't include a boot with that kit. I looked through EPC and MB does not offer a kit or boot (they seem to possibly offer a boot for another model E Class) so FCP may be sourcing the kit from another provider then MB. So, maybe a boot may be available if you ask just the right way.
Just went through your thread here.....cool project. Seems like you're bringing t back to life eh? Someone beat the ^%$# out of that thing huh? The 'mismatched tires' got me to lol haha!
Good luck!
Today's progress was removing both from shocks, lower control arms. Turns out the sway bar links and innermost bushing on lower control arm need replacing, so those will be ordered today.
I managed to break the little plastic clip that holds on the 4 cables (brake sensor, air shock sensor, 2 others), so will try glueing and will have to source that as well.
Still waiting on more parts to arrive. Today's progress was limited to putting a new cabin filter in, which contrary to everything else, was in good shape.
I'm searching for the gasket that sits on TOP of the valve cover. See the oil leak in the picture. I can't see it annotated in the EPC - any pointers?
Still waiting on more parts to arrive. Today's progress was limited to putting a new cabin filter in, which contrary to everything else, was in good shape.
I'm searching for the gasket that sits on TOP of the valve cover. See the oil leak in the picture. I can't see it annotated in the EPC - any pointers?
That is liquid gasket, grey RTV or similar. Make sure you use enough, and don't over tighten those little screws!
To my surprise, the rear rotors measures within spec. Theyre somewhat grooved. I cleaned the calipers and put brake paste, and reassembled - we’ll see how they perform.
I started getting the waterpump off, almost there. Was VERY surprised the new mercedes waterpump doesnt have the top left hole tapped, as it holds the double pulley....
Good progress today - my 12 sided sockets came in, so I was able to get the waterpump off. I think I'm going to reuse it. There is some very slight scoring, and bearing is a tiny bit sticky (like turning a small electric motor, where it has slightly variable resistance), but no noise and no major rubbing.
Found that the electrical loom disintegrated over by the alternator, so have ordered replacements.
The lower tensioner pulley has a tamper proof Torx, so had to order another set of those.
I could NOT get the supercharger pulley off. Is there a special tool for this, that braces it?
My electrical Makita impact couldn't budge it, and then I tried some wrap-style holders with a breaker, but I couldn't get much leverage while pushing on both. Any suggestions?
I opted not to replace the passenger lower control arm, as the ball joint looked like it was going to fight me (the hex holding on top was very rusty), and the interior bushing looked new. It still got a new sway bar link. Arnotts went in without too much issue.
....and the supercharger pulley came off, finally. I had to wedge it against the stick out boss. Also replaced the thermostat (pictured) but am going to keep the old waterpump (with new gasket)
Two things I noticed :
1) "clutch" surface is rusty. I'm assuming I should not scotchbrite this, perhaps driving the car will clean some of it up.
2) the pulley retaining circlip was just just rusty, but greased. Pulley bearing itself feels great.
I replaced the cabling on the electrical, but wondered if it was much bigger than the old. I couldn't get the waterpump to fit with it behind, made me wonder if it went in front. I don't think so, so will try to buy smaller tubing.
Just replace the entire front lower tensioner rather than only the pulley. Double check you are using the proper Torx bit; I once stripped out one of the bolt heads and it was a royal PITA to get it out.
Rather than a strap wrench, place two large hose clamps on the supercharger magnet and stop them against the metal piece sticking out to the left of the magnet (one clamp will need to be slightly offset to account for the two different diameters on that metal piece). Can be used to loosen and tighten the bolt. Heat applied to the bolt is sometimes required to break down the locking material on the threads but you obviously succeeded.
With new air springs and as old as the car is, I would recommend you calibrate the suspension when you finish all of this work.
EDIT: the harness goes behind the water pump. You don't want the harness anywhere near the belts or pulleys.
09-04-2020 | 09:26 PM
