builtbyfood

Sup all. I have done a lot over the years to my. Now I am upgrading from the killerchiller (crap) to the FI Interchiller made by Kirk (freaking awesome). So far I have the chiller installed and working. I haven't gotten to test it with actual driving since my latest refilling of R134. At idling with the valve to chiller only, I was seeing temps a low as 42.8F and high 50's with cabin and chiller at the same time in 91-degree ambient temp.

Getting things in order



Opening.....





How the barb will be welded


Sometimes ya just gotta finger things you spend boat loads of money on


The "valve" and the special harness I am using to make wiring much easier




Need to start making room


GTFO Old killerchiller setup


Mock up


Making room for the interchiller and taking advantage of weight reduction.


More mock up


I upgraded to a new power steering cooler. This was done to free up more space for the chiller behind the crash bar. Chiller mounting. Don't mind my zip ties, they are temp... or are they....


To and from intercooler lines. Cutting it nice and close to those pullies. The routing ended up being direct shots to the pump. These are 12an lines.



Pump - It is a CWA100-3 hard hard wired to the fuse box.



Made lines waiting for fittings and bay tank with 12an fittings welded on.


Low side with a welded barb. ALL of the low side lines are insulated with tacky and the foam insulation or tacky tape alone. The black goop you see is the tacky tape. This is used to stop condensation from building.




Low side hose routed


Getting ready for the tank upgrade



Sort of cleaned up hose routing


Got my tank back from welding


Direct shots


More low side routing



Insulation


tacky tape lovelyness




This step is NOT required, this is me clearing stuff to make room and make things easier on my self. Here is a shot of starting to remove the complete fusebox and the modules.


15 or so years of trapped stuff.... This is the cavity under the wiper motor and ECU box. I tapped into the high side line for the valve here and insulted the lines.


Cleaned up better view of the area

builtbyfood

More:

Valve placement


Can barely tell it is there


All back together


Relay for the valve


Here it is with the front bumper back on. You can barely tell that I have it installed.




Vacuum tiiiiiiiime


Switch for the chiller, the one with the light, the other is valet mode for my remote starter


Here's a video on the pump and flow


Ready to party


And some nice data logging during IDLING and see how cold I can get, I still have some fine-tuning to do with the levels. I am extremely happy with everything. Kirk is hands down the best to deal with.

99lightning

you def put your heart and soul into the install.

builtbyfood

Thanks, the results are showing so far. The more you can block out heat for the low side hoses, the colder it can get. I'll add some pics of the water lines. I have all of the fittings covered as well.

black06c230

Great job. Now tempting me to upgrade from my KC. Just cutting the crash bar kinda concerns me should there ever be an accident.

mbmg

Nice work T.

hachiroku

very nice!

M5 LOL

well done brother!!!!

builtbyfood

Thanks!

I only removed a brace that was attached to it. I think it will be fine if more were removed. If I hit something, I'ma hit it.

SICAMG

What screen is that in the photo? I pad ?

builtbyfood

It's a Dasaita 10.2. I might make a post about it.

hachiroku

make a post about it.

builtbyfood

Done.

99lightning

what product did you use on that garage floor? i have a new house i should do my floor this winter.

builtbyfood

Dunno, it was done before I bought the house.

trabots

My KC with drag valve works just fine I reckon. Before fixing the pulley I could get the temp below freezing,

cnterline

mine too ,I have dual KC set up, I stopped here as the antifreeze is only good to 10 lol

trabots

Are your KC's in series or parallel? Cheers

stevebez

Where did you get that temp gauge from?

cnterline

Parallel

trabots

Are your dual KC's in series or parallel? Asked already. Cheers.

trabots

Does anybody here know whether 2 KCs will cool more in parallel or series? Cheers.

cnterline

[QUOTE=trabots;8304633]Does anybody here know whether 2 KCs will cool more in parallel or series? Cheers.

mine gets real real cold if you let it in parallel

rdub_cls55

sorry I know this is two years ago or more, but I am about to install a trunk tank and have a upgraded primary and a secondary heat exchanger..with those three things, can the inter chiller work in tandem with all of those things??

im just learning all this and very fresh to mechanics of cars so don’t be too hard on me lol I would just be worried to have to remove any of the HE’s or the trunk tank beings they all were just installed, but would like to benefit from the lower IATs if possible.

thanks

builtbyfood

No worries. You defeat the purpose of the interchiller when using heat exchangers. You'll just heat up the colder than ambient water with warm ambient air.

Trunk tanks are over rated. can't control the temps under the car and requires too much pump to make worth it.