Finally done with the long tube headers
11-25-2020, 01:44 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Finally done with the long tube headers
Figured I'd share my impressions along with any tips (not full description, I see those already out there) I can think of for the next guy thinking to take this on. This will be way more info that most will care about or need, but I know I would have appreciated some of this prior to my starting a few weekends ago.
I bought the cheap knockoffs with the flex section. For me, on my CLS55, which looks completely identical as the E55 exhaust system, the mid-pipes supplied with the longtubes just would not work. First they could not be installed in anyway where the slip fittings were well seated or not be right up against the chassis. I spent hours trying to make it work and I can tell you it would not have been possible. I had to cut a small amount off a couple pieces just to get them in enough to clamp them down so I can drive to exhaust shop. Also I would note that when trying to mate the midpipes to the driver side resonator flange, the midpipe flange would not mate to the stock donut that should go between them (driver side)...there was no way I was going to get them sealed together so I just kind of had to wedge the donut in and bolt the flanges together best I could until taking it to shop.
So I did take it to the shop and had them replace everything from the long tubes back to and through the resonator (removing the resonator). I also had them add in a magnaflow xpipe closer to engine, just before the transmission pan. I highly recommend not putting the xpipe back where the resonator was as, after finally hearing some exhaust clips shared to me, it sounds way better closer to engine. SO it was longtubes, to xpipe, to mufflers then tips...not cats or resonator. All exhaust work only cost about $250 which included material ( expected it to be a lot more due to a common 'Mercedes tax')
Performance Impressions - hard to say as its been a bit wet out so far, but definitely feels like it gets into higher rpms quicker and easier. I just ordered a 'retune' from Eurocharged as to ensure all is dialed in and I'm taking full advantage.
Sound - completely not as loud as I expected having no cats or resonator. It sounds really good though, very exotic and raspy, but not full on BLAT!! (if you get my drift). I've watched every youtube video out there and fortunately I hit the note I was looking for as some vids made it sound like a pickup truck with flowmasters at idle. This sounds more like a European racecar (due to xpipe...always go xpipe, IMO) and aggressive, but not close to an open exhaust drag car. I wish it was a bit louder, but am very happy with sound, especially the note, overall.
A few quick thoughts (for a lot of you this isn't new):
- don't take this on yourself if you've not done a bit of wrenching with cars, IMO. Some may disagree, but I've pretty much done it all (4 engine swaps, transmissions, self-tuning, etc) and I just saw so many points where a younger me or less experienced person would have been stopped in their tracks or possibly made a bad situation for themselves. If you do, just be slow and methodical (or get a friend who has some experience to help). It is not impossible, but just don't go in thinking this to be one of your first things to take on.
- Install for me took probably 16 hours all said. I did work very slow, I did include new motor and trans mounts and was not fully 100% productive the whole time as there were points where i was trying to get one thing or another way, way longer than it should have taken. I also did this myself under jack stands too.
- Exhaust 101...use a 6 point socket vs a 12 point every time you are able (NEVER use 12 point on exhaust, IMO, at least when breaking it loose). If the 6 point doesn't have the range needed due to too tight of a spot, I'd recommend instead going to a hand wrench of same size and just use the open end until you can loosen it a bit before going in with a 12pt socket. Also use good sockets...if bought in bargain bin, they won't usually cut it for exhaust (this car not as bad as others I've worked on)
- when undoing the original manifold nuts, again this is 101 level info, always be sure your wrench or socket it fully seated down onto the nut...take the extra time to be sure and if not possible find another angle. If using a swivel, have eyes on it and be sure you are using other hand to keep it seated down on the bolt head. These header nuts aren't as bad as some cars but they are copper and seem could strip easily...which can be a bigger issue if you strip a bolt in an area where you can barely even get your hand into. I did strip one on way out (and in a bad area), but fortunately was able to figure out a way to get it out still.
- for me the driver side long tubes would NOT go in without undoing the underside motor and trans mount bolts. As others did, I had to lift engine up a bit (be careful not to go too far up as you can start hitting things) and then don't be too shy to move everything over to driver side as much as you can and then wedge some wood in there to hold it aside. I had this over as far as I could and still could not get them in, so ended up having to completely remove a heat shield on that side to make just enough room.
- Be sure you have all new nuts and studs. All but two of my nuts came out with the studs and to me, the studs did not look like something I wanted to put back in.
-check out Kano Aerokroil penetrating oil. It really is the best penetrating oil on the market and has been around a bit. I do really think it helped me here. Be generous with it, using it well before you go at bolts/nuts to remove and right after you spray it, use a hammer or heavier metal object to tap around area. My brain sure seems to think this helped me at a few points.
- its obvious but don't use the provided header gasket. Get oem or oem spec gaskets. I used ones made by Dana as I used to work for them and know they are a true OEM supplier with quality control required by those suppliers. I used some hi temp gasket maker to keep them from falling off the studs (just a bit to keep them sticking on there and not fall off).
- last suggestion is to lose some weight if you've gained 30lbs since the last time you spent hours laying on the ground working on a car. Every bone in my back was sore and bruised, lol, as its just not used to it. Totally worth it though.
Way more info than anyone asked for...maybe it helps the next guy
I bought the cheap knockoffs with the flex section. For me, on my CLS55, which looks completely identical as the E55 exhaust system, the mid-pipes supplied with the longtubes just would not work. First they could not be installed in anyway where the slip fittings were well seated or not be right up against the chassis. I spent hours trying to make it work and I can tell you it would not have been possible. I had to cut a small amount off a couple pieces just to get them in enough to clamp them down so I can drive to exhaust shop. Also I would note that when trying to mate the midpipes to the driver side resonator flange, the midpipe flange would not mate to the stock donut that should go between them (driver side)...there was no way I was going to get them sealed together so I just kind of had to wedge the donut in and bolt the flanges together best I could until taking it to shop.
So I did take it to the shop and had them replace everything from the long tubes back to and through the resonator (removing the resonator). I also had them add in a magnaflow xpipe closer to engine, just before the transmission pan. I highly recommend not putting the xpipe back where the resonator was as, after finally hearing some exhaust clips shared to me, it sounds way better closer to engine. SO it was longtubes, to xpipe, to mufflers then tips...not cats or resonator. All exhaust work only cost about $250 which included material ( expected it to be a lot more due to a common 'Mercedes tax')
Performance Impressions - hard to say as its been a bit wet out so far, but definitely feels like it gets into higher rpms quicker and easier. I just ordered a 'retune' from Eurocharged as to ensure all is dialed in and I'm taking full advantage.
Sound - completely not as loud as I expected having no cats or resonator. It sounds really good though, very exotic and raspy, but not full on BLAT!! (if you get my drift). I've watched every youtube video out there and fortunately I hit the note I was looking for as some vids made it sound like a pickup truck with flowmasters at idle. This sounds more like a European racecar (due to xpipe...always go xpipe, IMO) and aggressive, but not close to an open exhaust drag car. I wish it was a bit louder, but am very happy with sound, especially the note, overall.
A few quick thoughts (for a lot of you this isn't new):
- don't take this on yourself if you've not done a bit of wrenching with cars, IMO. Some may disagree, but I've pretty much done it all (4 engine swaps, transmissions, self-tuning, etc) and I just saw so many points where a younger me or less experienced person would have been stopped in their tracks or possibly made a bad situation for themselves. If you do, just be slow and methodical (or get a friend who has some experience to help). It is not impossible, but just don't go in thinking this to be one of your first things to take on.
- Install for me took probably 16 hours all said. I did work very slow, I did include new motor and trans mounts and was not fully 100% productive the whole time as there were points where i was trying to get one thing or another way, way longer than it should have taken. I also did this myself under jack stands too.
- Exhaust 101...use a 6 point socket vs a 12 point every time you are able (NEVER use 12 point on exhaust, IMO, at least when breaking it loose). If the 6 point doesn't have the range needed due to too tight of a spot, I'd recommend instead going to a hand wrench of same size and just use the open end until you can loosen it a bit before going in with a 12pt socket. Also use good sockets...if bought in bargain bin, they won't usually cut it for exhaust (this car not as bad as others I've worked on)
- when undoing the original manifold nuts, again this is 101 level info, always be sure your wrench or socket it fully seated down onto the nut...take the extra time to be sure and if not possible find another angle. If using a swivel, have eyes on it and be sure you are using other hand to keep it seated down on the bolt head. These header nuts aren't as bad as some cars but they are copper and seem could strip easily...which can be a bigger issue if you strip a bolt in an area where you can barely even get your hand into. I did strip one on way out (and in a bad area), but fortunately was able to figure out a way to get it out still.
- for me the driver side long tubes would NOT go in without undoing the underside motor and trans mount bolts. As others did, I had to lift engine up a bit (be careful not to go too far up as you can start hitting things) and then don't be too shy to move everything over to driver side as much as you can and then wedge some wood in there to hold it aside. I had this over as far as I could and still could not get them in, so ended up having to completely remove a heat shield on that side to make just enough room.
- Be sure you have all new nuts and studs. All but two of my nuts came out with the studs and to me, the studs did not look like something I wanted to put back in.
-check out Kano Aerokroil penetrating oil. It really is the best penetrating oil on the market and has been around a bit. I do really think it helped me here. Be generous with it, using it well before you go at bolts/nuts to remove and right after you spray it, use a hammer or heavier metal object to tap around area. My brain sure seems to think this helped me at a few points.
- its obvious but don't use the provided header gasket. Get oem or oem spec gaskets. I used ones made by Dana as I used to work for them and know they are a true OEM supplier with quality control required by those suppliers. I used some hi temp gasket maker to keep them from falling off the studs (just a bit to keep them sticking on there and not fall off).
- last suggestion is to lose some weight if you've gained 30lbs since the last time you spent hours laying on the ground working on a car. Every bone in my back was sore and bruised, lol, as its just not used to it. Totally worth it though.
Way more info than anyone asked for...maybe it helps the next guy
The following users liked this post:
testknight (11-26-2020)
11-26-2020, 06:43 AM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
I have used MBH Headers on 2 installs and Kleemann on 2 installs , aside from taking steering shaft out the fit was perfect , MBH are header **** lol
11-27-2020, 08:11 PM
#4
Senior Member
thanks for that detailed write up, but like you've ive turned enough wrenches. we've got a local E55 guy that works out of his garage with a lift. im happily paying him to install the same chinee LTs on my car. from what ive read you just bolted on 40-50whp. I bet it moves now! pics of the car too, love the CLS.
11-28-2020, 11:24 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
This is excellent advice. I only got new copper oem nuts. The studs were luckily fine to reuse but getting the nuts off them wasn't the easiest and there was some minor corrosion, new would be well worth it. New mercedes gaskets too.
