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Fixed, Purge Valve (as suggested by indy shop) now have more codes and rougher idle
Help me ut guys please,
I was heaving the notorious gas smell, but it was coming from the rear passenger side wheel well. I took it to an indy shop that seems solid, guy was master tech from Germany, so i had him check my gas lines and everything, I came back and he checked the lines and said everything was good, but he didn't scan the car, so i asked him to do that with his star real quick and it turns out the previous owner turned off the check engine prior to me purchasing the car.
We pulled the code which i didn't take a picture of (ik dumb) but it basically read tht there was either an emission leak. He concluded to me that he checked the lines and everything thoroughly so it must but the purge valve.
So i bought a purge valve and changed it in 5 minutes but now I'm getting a bunch of other codes and still a gas smell. So either i didn't install the purge valve correctly, or the mechanic missed a leak, which I've been trying to get a hold of him to find out the extent of the his testing but he conveniently is to busy to return any calls.
I'm goint ot post the 6 codes taht came up, one of them I already know is because my a compressor alsowent in the last week so ignore anything ac related.
I'll offer some generic advice. Assuming you do have an evap leak that may be causing a vacuum leak which could be causing all of the idle error codes and once you iron out the evap thing, those may disappear.
Of course, I can't give this advice without ranting that I do not understand why these cars throw idle control codes when there is a slight vacuum leak. They are speed density. There is no MAF. It does not measure air flow into the engine. It calculates it. So the idea that these are so sensitive to vacuum leaks just blows my mind but I'll step off my soap box now.
Problem occurred after you changed the purge control valve. Start there. It seems obvious you have a vacuum leak associated with the purge control valve. For a quick and dirty test, you can always try spraying ether around the connections on the purge control valve and if the idle RPM rises you found your leak because it is sucking ether into the engine. A safer way is to use a smoke test for an end to end test with the advantage it is a more thorough test.
If I remember correctly, a minor EVAP system leak is considered to be less than 1/2 millimeter square area and a gross leak is considered to be greater than that. I would have to look it up on the WIS to confirm those however.