When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi all, I have a 2009 W211 E63 and was wondering to replace the old front ball joints, as neither of the two previous owners does not have any record of doing them and the car is now at 144xxx miles. I don't really have any issues such as squeaking while steering or vibration/pulling under braking, but just wanted to replace them while I have the car up on stands for replacing the front brake pads.
I added a picture indicating the ones I would like to replace, but not sure if replacing the entire arm is necessary or just the joints? I found this "Comprehensive kit" on FCP Euro, but I'm not sure if that's all I need to do it, as that one has a joint for the upper suspension, but in the picture I added there are 3 circular ball joints.
suspension/steering mechanism lower control arm showing some wear at joint
The item you're calling front lower control arm I believe is called a thrust arm. I also believe that you can press out the ball joint, but your bushing looks like toast so easier to replace the whole arm at once. You can technically buy a replacement bushing, press it in, but the new thrust arm is pretty cheap, and the bushing is aligned properly, so no guess work involved.
The other arm (far left in your pic) is known as the lower control arm, it's what the strut, and sway bar link are mounted to. It has a ball joint for the sway bar link, and a ball joint that goes into spindle, as well as a bushing on the opposite end. Personally if you were doing ball joints, I'd just do that whole arm as well, it's pretty easy once you have everything disassembled. I would suggest getting the entire control arm kit from FCP, but the upper control arms are kind of a f*cker, and I ended up not doing mine, just doing the front upper ball joint that connects to the top of the spindle.
The item you're calling front lower control arm I believe is called a thrust arm. I also believe that you can press out the ball joint, but your bushing looks like toast so easier to replace the whole arm at once. You can technically buy a replacement bushing, press it in, but the new thrust arm is pretty cheap, and the bushing is aligned properly, so no guess work involved.
The other arm (far left in your pic) is known as the lower control arm, it's what the strut, and sway bar link are mounted to. It has a ball joint for the sway bar link, and a ball joint that goes into spindle, as well as a bushing on the opposite end. Personally if you were doing ball joints, I'd just do that whole arm as well, it's pretty easy once you have everything disassembled. I would suggest getting the entire control arm kit from FCP, but the upper control arms are kind of a f*cker, and I ended up not doing mine, just doing the front upper ball joint that connects to the top of the spindle.
Thanks for the reply! Yes you're right, I looked up some YouTube videos and while you can just replace the balljoint/bushings on the thrust arm/lower control arm, it's easier to just get one that already comes with it, as the special tools for removing them are a few hundred dollars.
Yeah, I will order the Lemforder brand ones from FCP euro, but for the control arm which the suspension connects to (think they're referred to as "rearward" control arms?"), i'll get the TRW 2113308207 from FCP Euro, since that's cheaper than the lemforder one and is the only brand available for that part on FCP right now.
As for the upper control arm, apparently the strut needs to be disconnected and detached from the lower control arm and is overall more involved; don't really wanna mess with that. I guess I'll just replace the upper ball joint and not bother with the entire arm.
The upper arms aren't some impossible job. There are just more steps. I'd say there are really two key annoying parts. The first is getting a 16mm wrench on the bolt that's buried down by the master cylinder. On the E63 I don't know if there is more or less room than an E55 but I was able to slip a wrench down there to hold the nut while I spun the bolt out. The other annoying part is having to remove the wheel well liner to unplug the strut so you can get it out of the way. I was lazy on the driver's side and just left the strut sort of perched sideways while I accessed the upper control arm. But I was pulling on the harness and opted to do it right for the passenger side. Just make sure to tighten/torque with the upper arm at the right ride height (mark it, take a picture, or otherwise take note). I'd say it's a lot easier than pressing ball joints on the lower arm or knuckle. One of my upper bushings was shot so I had no choice but to replace the whole arm anyway.
I guess one other thing to watch out for on the strut is the air line nut. Someone stripped the threads on the passenger side (which turned out to be an Arnott reman) and it would not go back in. I ended up wrapping layers of teflon tape and it has been holding fine but I freaked out for a while and tried a few things before settling on the teflon tape.
Thank you for the information. So far I've ordered the torque struts (part #2113304911), lower control arms (part #2113309207) and the ball joints (part#2113300435) all Lemforder brand, which I understand is the best you can get.
Is a star diagnostic tool necessary for recalibrating the ride height after replacing the upper control arm? I read a few other posts that it may be needed, but I don't have that. This is actually the first time for me replacing any suspension/steering related part lol. I like the learning opportunity and satisfaction of doing it myself. Although I'm kinda nervous to do anything that meddles with the strut, as they're expensive to replace.
No. But I forgot another tip. Just remove the 10mm nut that holds the ride height sensor to the arm. Don't try to pry the ball apart. I did that because that's what you do on one of my Cadillacs. It went back together but it's not intended to just pop apart. Also, when you put the sensor back in, get it in the right hole!! I used a rear hole and that corner was slammed to the ground. You can always bend/shim with washers if the height isn't exactly where you want it. Turns out mine had some nuts as spacers to drop the front end. I removed them.
The biggest wildcard for you is to check for access to the rear nut on the driver's side upper control arm. On the E55 you cannot put your hand on the nut but you can use an offset box wrench to hold the nut. If the access is even tighter on the E63 (perhaps due to lack of SBC) then it could require more work. I THOUGHT I would have to remove the front SAM and completely disassembled it only to get stuck removing the plastic housing. At that point I simply tried accessing the nut and was fine by dangling a 16mm wrench in there. Geez, wish I tried that first. WIS does say to remove the SAM so there's that. But it wasn't needed on my E55. Had fun putting that back together but at least I am familiar with what's in there now. Forgot a plug and had an SRS light too....but I digress.
06-02-2021, 07:06 PM
