STRE55ED

Hello everyone,

I have been working on an E55 I purchased a while back. I'm having some issues with the vehicle and Im hoping someone here can help me out. I'm gonna give as much detail as I can remember, please ask for clarification if it doesn't make sense. The vehicle does not run right. When its first started it puffs a large cloud of black smoke and seems to be overfueling. Sometimes it clears up after about 15-30 seconds, other times its runs really rough and continues to push out black smoke, my throttle response is limited to the first 20% or so of the pedal, if I ask for more it starts to bog out. If it clears up it the throttle only responses during idle. Once load is introduced it starts to bog out after 20% accel pedal. Ive replaced plugs and wires (with 2 ohm wires).

Also upon start-up I have no throttle sometimes. I press the pedal and it doesn't do anything, after pressing it a few times and changing how fast and how much i press it i start getting throttle response. I'm also running into an issue which seems to be caused by the 82MM throttle body upgrade. When I drive it under 20% throttle its ok and drives normal, as soon as I try to go past that it starts to bog out and feels like its gonna die, I let off on the accel. and it starts running normal again. Sometimes it gives me full power at WOT and I will get launched into tomorrow with a cloud of black smoke behind me, once it idles down it runs rough for a few seconds and same thing happens where I lose my pedal.

I've replaced the accel. pedal, SAM(it had some water damage) and I've purchased a new tune from RACEIQ which will be installed after the supercharger+catch can get installed. I have codes for MAP sensor and same code number calling the ECM, the thermostat code went away and the throttle body codes were there because the throttle and the purge valve connectors were switched.

I had a noise coming from the rear bearings in the supercharger so I have that removed right now in order to change those out. I noticed the inside of the supercharger inlet snout and the intercooler is lined with oil so I will most likely be getting a catch can system.
One of my main concerns is that when the vehicle is running, whether its rough or smooth I don't have vacuum in the engine. How I'm testing that is by opening the oil filler cap and looking for vacuum. Is this normal?
Can anyone get me a vacuum diagram in which the secondary air has been deleted? I'm thinking that the vacuum lines may be run incorrectly.


I know this is a trainwreck of a post, I'm close to pulling my hair out but hopefully someone can help me out here and I can get this beast on the road before July. It is currently not drive-able. As I'm working on it I am taking it around the block. So far nothing has changed. Im really hoping it is a software issue and once the new tune by RACEIQ is in I will do some data logging and post.

Here are some pics of codes and some live data I was looking through, maybe it will help?









Cheers and thanks for any help!!!

GinDistiller

Do all of those codes return after clearing the fault memory? Yes trainwreck seems like an accurate description however some of what you're seeing may be secondary results of some unknown main issue. The black smoke is most concerning, this should not be happening and is definitely beyond the scope of an 82mm TB hiccup problem. That should be your main focus, if oil or fuel is dumping it can foul sensors and cause all sorts of havoc. Are the injectors stock, and any mods besides the TB? Definitely get the new map uploaded and see how things change first. Don't worry about vacuum - you'd measure that at the supercharger or air charge pipes, not filler cap, and even with wonky routing it wouldn't cause so many issues.

Did you run a compression and leakdown test when you had the plugs out? That would at least let you know if the motor/rings are healthy or not, either giving you the worst news or sending you on a continued diagnostic path of other sources.

bbirdwell

Everything I see is pointing to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) plus a massive vacuum leak (if I am interpreting your description correctly) and an erroneous Coolant Temperature sensor. You say you have no vacuum which I infer to mean zero inches of vacuum (or 101 kPa or 14.7 psi atmospheric).

-TPS is signaling the ECU it is closed (idle) or partially open (<=20% throttle) which means small amounts of fuel. Yet the MAP sensor (if I understand you correctly) is signaling the ECU the engine is at wide open throttle (zero inches of vacuum and the supercharger disengaged) which means large amounts of fuel. Two majorly conflicting signals which will be interpreted as a fault.
-Coolant temperature sensor seems to indicate your engine is running somewhere below zero degrees Celsius (-279 volts? Really?). If so, expect the ECU to dump massive amounts of fuel into the engine as it assumes you are attempting to start the car in Arctic conditions. Check to see if the connector is plugged into the sensor or is broken. (This issue I have had in the past on my turbo'd Miata; intermittent connection on the coolant temperature sensor would cause the ECU to "see" -40 degrees Celsius coolant and massive amounts of fuel would be dumped in the engine. That was a fun one to locate.) Disregard this idea; I just checked my car and it read -277.15 at 25 degrees C. Went more negative to -277.36 at 35 degrees C. It was a small surprise to me...perhaps they meant millivolts.
-TPS error can cause the errors associated with the transmission control module plus the Electronic Stability Program. (Been there, done that, got the T-shirt. All caused in my case by the air cleaner o-ring gasket getting sucked under the throttle plate and blocking it. Throttle also would not respond to accelerator pedal input.)

Since you are pulling/pulled the supercharger, some good info in this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...e-items-2.html

I'll edit in some more info later; I'm going to go hook up to my car and compare my actual values on the items above.
EDIT: scratched some of the above. FWIW, my accelerator pedal sensor (B37) values and throttle valve actuator (M16/6) values were very close to your values. You can try going into "Actuations", "M16/6 Throttle Valve Actuator", and running a self test on the throttle valve actuator.

If it were me? I'd do the following:
-Smoke test to find the vacuum leak.
-Verify I did not pinch or crush a wire harness while working on the engine.
-Replace the tune to see if it resolves the issue.
-If issue not resolved, install original throttle body and original factory tune. Code out the Secondary Air Injection.
-Clear codes and run issues to ground.
-Once running again, install the larger throttle body and associated tune.
-If running well, celebrate with a drive and, once home, a beer.

Keep us posted on what you find.

STRE55ED

Thanks for the help guys, Smoke tested to no avail. Will double check wiring harness when reinstalling same with re-tune. I don't have the origninal throttle as I bought the vehicle modified, but I have purchased a new used known good one. I'm almost at putting everything back together, replaced the accelerator pedal, S/C bypass, 82MM throttle with known good ones and SC/IC seals and gaskets(some phenolic) + rear SC bearings. Im trying to figure out the routing for the vacuum lines and cant seem to figure out where the line from the back driver side(US vehicle) to the front goes. Its routed underneath the S/C jsut dont know which side it comes up on and where it connects. I believe it goes from the back to the vacuum switch in the front pass. side. Can anyone confirm? Also how would I be able to tell if the vehicle is cammed without taking out the camshaft and measuring the lobes? I took some pics of the cams cause I have the valve covers off to reseal them and the breathers on the them, if it can be identified through some pics I can post them.


Cheers