When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Note: I posted another update to this thread in a post below in November 2024. Same issue; filter clogged with dust/dirt.
Symptoms: fuel tank would take approximately two gallons of gas, pump nozzle would shut off, wait several seconds, then begin adding fuel, nozzle shuts off, wait several seconds, lather, rinse, repeat.
Diagnosis: Bad vapor canister or vapor canister valve.
Part number for the US-spec emissions vapor canister is 211-470-01-59. I bought a used one off of Ebay for $110. New price is ~$350 but my local dealer's inquiry showed only four in stock in the US and none of those dealers were willing to let loose of what they had; thus the Ebay purchase.
Remove fender liner, disconnect electrical connector, release spring clamp on large top hose (leads to gas tank) but do not remove hose yet. Use rubber mallet (I also used a small pry bar to assist) in knocking the cannister upward to release from the three catches in back (Photo below shows what the canister mounting tabs look like). I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to remove the lower one-time use clamp on the hose to the line leading to the engine. Remove lower and upper hose and remove canister. Connect hoses to the replacement canister and install clamps. It was slightly tricky to align the canister tabs with the mounting bracket in the blind but, after several attempts, I did get it in place. Reconnect electrical connector. Reinstall fender liner.
EDIT: don't do like I did and attempt to use the heel of your palm to knock the canister upwards. As I discovered, the sheet metal heat shield under the canister is sharp! I sliced open the heel of my hand on the sheet metal and that was when I went with the rubber mallet and easy use of a small pry bar (it takes both as the sheet metal will just bend before the canister comes loose).
The fuel tank now takes fuel with no issue. It appears to be a bad solenoid activated canister valve on the defective canister I removed. Edit: it wasn't the valve, it was the filter element under the valve clogged with dust/dirt.
Some additional details in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...e-testing.html
Note this other thread's original vapor canister is NOT the one in the E55. Both of my vapor canisters (my original failed '05 version and the used '04 version) have the vertical connection on the top of the vapor canister.
I already have an Ebay cannister in hand for our GL63, typical it finally filled a full tank without issues right after it came (but that is a 10% chance at best). Good to know a used one worked for you, I made a similar call based on costs and frequency of failure. If it takes 2 or 3 more tries it will still be half the cost of new.
Update:
-the solenoid activated valve checked out good. Problem was a clogged outlet on the vapor canister. Cleaned the outlet and the canister now functions so it looks like I have a spare. I intend for this to assist others so they can save some money. The valve is in the "open" position when unpowered. Applying 12 volts shuts the valve. With no power, one should be able to plug the bottom tube (leads to the intake manifold) and blow through the vapor canister fuel tank connection (vertical connection) or the valve connection (ribbed outlet). Since a new valve is ~$150, this is a way to test and possibly correct the issue without spending a lot of money.
-Press release tab down, then twist and remove the valve.
-Test the valve using a 12 volt supply. Yellow wire here is positive, white wire is negative. With no power, one should be able to blow through the valve. With power, one should not be able to blow through the valve.
-Valve worked fine. Problem was this outlet/inlet portion of the canister was literally caked with an impervious layer of dust/dirt/debris that sealed the canister off from the outside. This photo is after I used a screwdriver to scrape off the layer of dirt. After doing so, I reattached the valve, sealed off the lower connection (to the intake manifold), and could blow through the inlet from the fuel tank and feel/hear the air exiting the valve on the canister.
Update:
-the solenoid activated valve checked out good. Problem was a clogged outlet on the vapor canister. Cleaned the outlet and the canister now functions so it looks like I have a spare. I intend for this to assist others so they can save some money. The valve is in the "open" position when unpowered. Applying 12 volts shuts the valve. With no power, one should be able to plug the bottom tube (leads to the intake manifold) and blow through the vapor canister fuel tank connection (vertical connection) or the valve connection (ribbed outlet). Since a new valve is ~$150, this is a way to test and possibly correct the issue without spending a lot of money.
-Press release tab down, then twist and remove the valve.
-Test the valve using a 12 volt supply. Yellow wire here is positive, white wire is negative. With no power, one should be able to blow through the valve. With power, one should not be able to blow through the valve.
-Valve worked fine. Problem was this outlet/inlet portion of the canister was literally caked with an impervious layer of dust/dirt/debris that sealed the canister off from the outside. This photo is after I used a screwdriver to scrape off the layer of dirt. After doing so, I reattached the valve, sealed off the lower connection (to the intake manifold), and could blow through the inlet from the fuel tank and feel/hear the air exiting the valve on the canister.
Thanks for your post! Did you get any code for when you were having this issue? I'm getting a P0446 vent control circuit code and also fuel coming back out when I fill
Update. Once again the fuel tank was difficult to fill. Seems the salvage yard cannister I installed back in June of 2021 now had the vent clogged with fine dust/dirt. The original one I pulled off the car I cleaned back in July of 2021 I could breathe air in or out of the cannister with the valve removed and the lower fitting closed off with my finger. The one I took off of the car this morning I could not breathe air in or out of the cannister with valve removed and lower fitting closed off with my finger.
Reinstalled the original, then cleaned the salvage yard cannister and placed it on the parts shelf as a spare.
So...before replacing the cannister, try removing the valve and cleaning the dust/dirt out of the filter. Photo below shows clogged versus unclogged filter element with valves removed from both cannisters.
Just had the same problem w/05 Yukon..Same exact problem...$831.00 later! I got tired of the pump $1/3 of gas then stop..very annoning lol. Get stuff.
R,
2Merks
Update. As of yesterday, filled the tank multiple times at maximum flow without any cutoffs of the fuel pump. Take two hours of your time and clean the filter medium. Works wonders!
Update. As of yesterday, filled the tank multiple times at maximum flow without any cutoffs of the fuel pump. Take two hours of your time and clean the filter medium. Works wonders!
It's a discontinued part. I wonder if this is a part that is interchangeable with any other W211 chassis cars or CLS cars.
That part is used on only 211 bodied cars:
211.061/261 E240 Sedan/Wagon
211.065/265 E320 Sedan/Wagon
211.070/270 E500 Sedan/Wagon
211.076/276 E55 Sedan/Wagon
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
