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It’s my understanding that MBUSA allows dealerships to set their own prices, hence the variation. It was surprising that the MBUSA prices were lower than every dealership in my are…by a long shot. But, I would imagine that the majority of their clientele isn’t savvy about shopping for auto parts.
On a related note, I was talking to a young guy who worked at a local dealership that it’s easier than ever to buy and maintain older luxury, sports, and luxury sports cars what with the info on forums, official online documentation, ebay, and online retailers. Back in the day, all of the knowledge was either at the dealership or independents. And parts were at the dealership or, if you are lucky, your local junk yard.
I remember taking my modest tool kit to the junk asking, “Y’all got any VW Rabbits in the yard?…”
Wow...CQHall...that looks GREAT! Nice job.
I never did understand de-badging an E55. Even with the badges installed, it's still one of the most bad-@ss sleepers.
Wow...CQHall...that looks GREAT! Nice job.
I never did understand de-badging an E55. Even with the badges installed, it's still one of the most bad-@ss sleepers.
Agree, and that "V8 Kompressor" badge is one of the most awesome fender badges to exist; and quite the flex to show off.
My wife calls the W211 E-class "a real estate lady car". For context, she drives a M-sport 535i twin-turbo inline 6 and thinks she's hot stuff, hahahaha.
My wife calls the W211 E-class "a real estate lady car". For context, she drives a M-sport 535i twin-turbo inline 6 and thinks she's hot stuff, hahahaha.
OK. I'm done. Big thanks to @E55Greasemonkey . His measurements made it all work.
I used vernier calipers, tailor's measuring tape, painter's tape, and a pen in the following way:
I set the caliper to the dimension required, then applied tape on the left and right of where the "AMG" badge would sit ("E 55" badge procedure was the same). I then measured the vertical height from the bottom edge of the seam indicated.
I then made a horizontal line with tape. This will be the floor of the badge:
I then measured horizontally along the "floor" from the edge of the trunk lid the desired distance:
Before, I was worried that I'd have to place each letter individually (ensuring that I'd screw up), but thanks to a guy at a local body shop, I learned this trick:
Take a piece of clear packing tape and tape across the front of the badge (pressing enough to ensure it sticks), then flip it over and remove the backing (which peels off easily). THIS maintains relative spacing!!
Then line up the bottom on the "floor" and the corner letter on the mark indicated:
Press the letters firmly to get them to stick, then carefully remove the packing tape from the front (using your finger or a tool to ensure that the letters stay put on the car). It helps to peel from a corner of each letter so not much pulling force is applied all at once.
Voila!
A similar technique was employed for the fender badges:
All done, it took me maybe an hour or more. The trunk badges were pretty quick, but the fender badges were a bit tricky with all of the curves involved and I was using a rigid yard stick at the time. When I switched to the tailor's/dressmaker's measuring tape, the pace picked up. So, if I chose to use that from the beginning, it would have taken less than an hour.
Awesome post, man! I know I'm a few years later, but if youre still getting online here, is that 1" painters tape? Thanks!
Awesome post, man! I know I'm a few years later, but if youre still getting online here, is that 1" painters tape? Thanks!
Thanks!
I used both 1" and wider painter's tape. It was what I had around the house. Masking tape will work, too. But, if you are going to buy some, buy the "low adhesive" painter's tape. It's simply easier to peel and re-stick to get it aligned properly and easier to peel off when you are done. You don't need the tape to "hold up". It's jut there for you to write on and be a straight edge from point to point.
I discovered it when I was actually painting with the standard stuff and peeled it off and the fricking drywall came off with it! I was pissed. Now the low adhesive stuff is all I buy.
...it sucks for all-purpose use, though, hahaha...for obvious reasons.
I used both 1" and wider painter's tape. It was what I had around the house. Masking tape will work, too. But, if you are going to buy some, buy the "low adhesive" painter's tape. It's simply easier to peel and re-stick to get it aligned properly and easier to peel off when you are done. You don't need the tape to "hold up". It's jut there for you to write on and be a straight edge from point to point.
Good luck!
Ok great! Glad to hear from ya! Will definitely keep the "low adhesive" in mind. Lol.
I discovered it when I was actually painting with the standard stuff and peeled it off and the fricking drywall came off with it! I was pissed. Now the low adhesive stuff is all I buy.
...it sucks for all-purpose use, though, hahaha...for obvious reasons.
10-19-2021 | 10:25 AM
