eagleeye

two JL Audio 12's w/1000W amp.....OMG!!!

I had no basis with which to decide upon one vs. two subs, so I erred on the side of more bass.

I'm not into audiophile-speak, so all I can do is quote the installer..." It sounds STUPID" (in a good way, of course)

The audio now matches the rest of the beasts' qualities.

Unless you are into really big-time bumpin' & thumpin', one would suffice. You can adjust the output very easily to match your mood/needs (this can be done through both the COMAND and on the amp itself.

I added a pic of my hood pin since I love it so much.

Fast55

Nice. I have a similar setup with one sub in my W210 E55. Even without different front speakers, it's a world of difference.

ekaz

Nice setup. I have 1-JL 12W6 with a JL 500/1 amp.....what a HUGE difference, I can only imagine what 2 sound like.

Noredline

Wow, looks great! It looks like the enclosure comes out past the hinge point of the trunk access. Did they cut/re-hinge access cover?

eagleeye

You are correct, it does go past the hinge point. It lifts partially. If I need to ever lift it for the spare, I would have to lift it up and make a new crease in it.

W211 Ryda

Thats one sick setup! Is the amp mounted on top of the enclosure?

eagleeye

Yep. Going on a trip today and was still able to put two small suitcases in the trunk.

scorchie

Wow, looks good. After hearing kyee's single JL 12, I think this might be overkill!

How did the installer hook into the existing stuff? I've seen some hack jobs and was hoping to see some good integration. I've been waiting a while on my Audiobahn install due to trying to get the right connectors to hook into the HK system.

-s-

ThemisN

You just need to know what wires go to what speakers. Im sure he used a Line Output converter off one of amp, out of which he put the signal into the amp.

Seeing this setup though, I either need to make sure my subs that I put in in the spring do not go past the hinge point, or I will mount my 10" subs in a free-air configuration ON the rear deck.

scorchie

Sorry, I wasn't clear. I definitely know what wires go to what speakers and what things do what.

The point is, most places SPLICE or TAP into existing wires. I consider this a "HACK JOB".

You do not need JUST a line output convertor, you also need something to convert the speaker output to a remote turn-on. And for that, you also need power. Where would you suggest getting power from? I suggest getting it from the fusebox (rear SAM), and if you do that, you need to have the PROPER CONNECTOR (well, my belief is that you should have it).

-s-

sporters78

Nice hood pin where can i get one?
thanks
steve

W211 Ryda

It would be great if someone could fabricate a t-plug where it’s all plug and play rather than tapping into the speaker wires with those cheap wire taps. As for the remote turn-on, many amps require this connection as it acts as the on/off switch. Fortunately, JL amps doesn't require a remote turn-on since their amps can be activated from the signal picked up by the built-in LOC. (someone correct me on this) Check out specs on their site. http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/5001.html I wonder what other amps have this feature?

ThemisN

Many can do that (turn on with signal). I dont consider it a "hack job" as an install that retains much of the stock equipment as we do, and in our SPECIFIC cars, almost requires tapping / grabbibng signal from existing wires. There is no adapterthat I know of that we can use that plugs in and we get everything out of it cleanly. The big issue is that we need to leave IN the stock amp that combines all these signals from the command, changer, etc.

As far as power, thats simple. Power comes direct from battery obviously. Remote turn on probably also comes from stock amp, or something else close to the trunk that would get it.

scorchie

Many amps have that feature! Infinity Basslink also has it.

But if you want to use a separate LOC, you can try to get one with the remote lead built in.

I am planning to get the connectors that go into the speaker; this way the speaker section will plug in. It's the power part that still has to plug into the SAM.

(I did this on my C43... same idea... got the sub speaker connectors, which were MUCH easier to find... made a Y-cable, and then went from there. My C43 was the spiritual predecessor to my E 55 )

-s-

W211 Ryda

Scorchie, could you post the part # of those speaker connectors you're referring to? I didn't know MB sold them unless you bought the entire harness. If I could get a hold of these connectors, I'm going X-mas shopping for my baby.

X-mas list

1. 12W6v2 or a 10
2. JL 500/1
3. MDF board

scorchie

Dood, there's no "remote turn on" in the whole car. You do NOT need to cut any wires or "tap" them, it's a hack job if you do.

-s-

ThemisN

The only way you arent gonna cut any wires is if you run off the end of one of the speaker wires and run all your signals off of that.
THAT is a hack job, because essentially you are going to be running mono. Now if it is just subs, then it's not so bad. In all, I wouldn't let any signal run in that that small guage wire that mb uses. For me, where I would be changing all the speakers, you cant do this. Using the stock wiring is seriously limiting the upgrade.

Mattar

Great set up eagleeye Looks terrific ... does your trunk rattle with all that Base

scorchie

You haven't noticed that there's a connector on the original amplifier, huh?

If the speakers aren't mono, how could tapping into the end of the wire (where the speakers are) be mono too?

I think at this point I will just let you disagree, because you're not making your arguments very clear. I guess with all the time you've spent with your car apart, you will know what's best for it.

-s-

ThemisN

I apologize for not being clearer, but here is the problem with what you are saying. 1) When putting aftermarket speakers and subs, people use new wiring that is a thicker gauge than the garbage that auto manufacturers use. If you are using the stock wiring, you are seriously limiting the potential of the system.
2) If you are using the end of ONE speaker wire for your input, then that is only ONE signal, hence the mono input. That's the only way I can imagine not doing what you call a hack job. This would also only work on an installation that only involves subs.
I will not be just adding subs, I will be changing all the speakers in the car. It is NOT realistic to pull the signal going to each door to run it BACK to your amp, only to run it back to the door.

scorchie

What's the problem with what I wrote? "There's a connector at the amplifier."

Take the signals from the amplifier... that eliminates ALL the original wire.

If you're using your own amplifier, the original wire is more than sufficient to handle the power going through it (the power is greatly reduced because the input to your amplifier or to a LOC is high impedence).

I can't believe you are on here saying that you want to eliminate the wire that's in the car, but you'll use many inches of it to get to a TAP to run to your wire. Talk about introducing sound problems... that's far worse than anything else.

I hope you're working only on your car... not on others. (You should also understand that I've seen how you wrap things for shipment and don't follow instructions, so I must admit that I do have some prior understanding of how you do things, and I'm not impressed.)

-s-

ThemisN

First of all, of course I would use my own amplifier. Most people do when they are running good subs. Secondly, I never did want to use that "many inches". I was being sarcastic, because as I said in my post, it would be ridiculous to do that. But apparently even when I type that, you dont get it.
But apparently you know more than I do, an apparent audiophile who prefers a stock amp over an aftermarket one, all in an effor to avoid a "hack job". I have met people who do research in audio electronics and acoustics, and they have found that increasing the gauge of the wire DOES open up the soundstage. So I hope you are only working on your own car as well.

While you are on a roll talking about things not related to the subject, apparently you dont understand two things. 1) I ship items that are my own very well. I have done a lot of selling on ebay, with a lot of people praising my care in shipment. However, when I am sending something back, you bet I will send no more care than the shipper. I use the same material they shipped it to me with. I don't need to do them any favors, especially when they sent me an inferior item.

Case Closed.

BenzoBoi

Looks awesome!~!

gmdebruyn

eagleeye, do you have any pics of the entire front of the car, with the badge included? i'm considering the badge, but i want to see what the entire car looks like w/o the mercedes emblem and with the new AMG badge.

thanks,
Gareth

t-bone

Here is a shot of my car with the badge.