Did you ever see it connected prior to buying? Perhaps its wired but still wrong and never worked and why it was sold. You look over my post way up above about the 2 diff boxes to get power?

 

I fiddled with it all for an hour or so last night, to no avail. I did get the CAN bus hooked up, and the steering wheel controls now work. Still no sound. Unsure if the FOB is bad, or some other problem. After reading other people's experiences with the FOB, and sound quality, I am leaning towards just running speaker wire out to the trunk, and drive the sound directly from the radio, skipping the entire MOST setup.

 

After reading a bit more, I decided that eliminating the entire system was what I was ultimately after. I removed the head unit (of course), the trunk DVD player and the amplifier. I added 6 pairs of speaker wire through the conduits on the driver's side for the speakers, and two Fakra-Z cables (radio and GPS, and an RCA coax for the back up camera. Tedious, but not technically difficult. My kit had the correct connector for the speakers, so I didn't need to cut any wires. I added it all in, and now have it working as intended. GPS and radio both work, using the onboard antenna. There is also the SiriusXM antenna connection that could be added, should I decide to go that route. Overall, not much to show, but it all does work. I have fader control, and am mostly happy with sound quality. My Xtrons unit is a rather old one, and now that it is all working, I will likely spring for a latest/greatest version to replace that. Also happy to remove another layer of over-complication for the car, with no apparent loss of anything else. I'm sure someone will poke holes in that idea, and that's OK, I'd welcome the feedback. The best part is that everything can go back to stock within an hour or so of labor. Again, nothing cut, so returning to stock should be plug and play.

 

Great to hear. I might need to reach out to you when my E is back home and I tackle this. I have a diff unit but course all are similar. I didn’t have issue with install of a units in my G but there isn’t too much complicated about those cars like the E.

 

this is what i plan to do with my E63, bypass and remove the factory amplifers but also install a helix v-eight dsp with fiber optic from head unit to allow usage of all 7 channels and 11 or so speakers versus the 4 which are default supported by the standard audio outputs of the head unit.

 

I thought of pretty much what you are saying at the time, too. Be aware that it will be tight getting the RCA connectors to feed through the conduit. Not impossible at all, but tight. I may opt to go back in to replace the regular speaker wire with coax to put an amp in. For now, I have some semblance of a functioning system. I suspect that my FOB was no operating properly, but after consulting with others, the direct wire setup just seemed more sensible than a two channel setup that the MOST had to "figure out".

 

Hi MJ - sorry for the long delay. I appreciate your responses. “I am getting power to the HU”. When the HU’s Yellow is connected to the cars FiberOptic Yellow/Red (Constant) wire and HU’s Black connected to the cars FiberOptic Brown (ground), AND the HU’s Red ACC is connected to the FiberOptics Yellow/Red, the device Powers On. IF I were to connect the HU’s RED ACC to the Cigarette lighter Red/White power, the device Does NOT power on….

 

Have you checked for a blown fuse for the cigarette lighter? If the unit powers up with direct power from the battery lines, it would stand to reason that there is no power at the cigarette lighter line. You could try locating another switched 12v source wire.

 

I tested the cigarette lighter switch with a tester. Getting 12v.

 

Then there is no reason it would not power up with that wire, but it will if connected to a constant 12v line. The ACC wire just needs a 12v signal to tell the HU to fully power up. Can you locate an alternative 12v switched power wire?